last wiring bits

[tyrannix]

wednesday apr26 >

for real, L/R is pissing me off

ok, on the FSM, the FICD valve is B, L/Gmy sensor plug is L/R , L/G

my sensor plug is L/R , L/G

this L/R HAS to be a ground?

so,... seriously.. L/R sometimes == ground? or what (and what compressor is that listed next to the FICD on the L/G ? )

CJ

>>edit>> the harness has been cut apart, wires fixed, now i just need to match up a few colors with what they do/where they go

or i was sure... until i looked at the 'corrected' FSM, the plugs are different... it makes alot more sense now

the L/R now clearly goes dash plug->main harness->coil packs, but the dash is unnecessary, so it will just go main>coil packs (done, FTW)

and the BR goes AAC solenoid, O2 sensor,Pres reg solenoid, main harnessbut the BR was cut away on my harness, doesnt make sense, but thats how i will wire it, (AAC solenoid, O2,main) and see if i fry anything

[/edit]

original post >>>>

ok, im almost done with the wiring harness stuff

first question, is there any possible reason why i cant shorten the wires to the dropping resistor (and stick it near the wiper motor)

then what exactly is A? (on the harness i got, its looped and capped, on another, it is capped, but the hose is only on one side, then plugged?(couldnt find the wire colors in the FSM wiring diagram)

B looks like it needs to do something

and all the stuff in C can be deleted?

Modified by tyrannix at 8:25 AM 4/26/2006

Modified by tyrannix at 1:37 PM 4/26/2006

Modified by tyrannix at 9:47 PM 4/26/2006
Modified by tyrannix at 9:48 PM 4/26/2006

[float_6969]

"A" is either a boost control solenoid or what is called a "pressure regulator control valve". The idea of the latter is that when the motor is heatsoaked, it refrences the FPR to atmosphere when the motor is starting to inject extra fuel to flush the fuel rail out.

[c-rad]

The large plug in "C" needs to be rewired as well. That and the "B" plug go behind the battery. I will take a pic this afternoon when I get home from school.

[tyrannix]

howd i know youd reply that fast ?

so it just needs to be capped but plugged in (with a stock/flashed ecu) for either of those because i have plenty of cooling power with gauges to monitor it and a boost controller?

[float_6969]

I didn't even plug mine in to be honest. I just wrapped it up in tape in the harness so it couldn't short out. One of the wires on the plug has got 12V+ switched from the ignition, and if you short it out, it blows a weird fuse that will take you forever to find. Don't ask, just trust me on this one.....

[damesta]

A-boost control solenoid, most people don't use it, don't worry about it.

B and big grey plug in C- Need to be rewired to plug into your chassis harness behind the battery, these two are the main power source plugs for the engine.

C-most can be deleted or shortened but you should have a maf plug, two ignitor plugs, and the dropping resistor plug somewhere in there that you need(can't see very good in the pic).

[tyrannix]

please do, i used a KA lower harness, and a CA transmission (soldered the CA plugs onto the KA harness) and i dont see any more plugs to plug in behind the battery

....*thinking* ...

maybe there were 2 plugs that came in from the side from the main harness... ill have to look at that when i get home from work too

the guy i bought this harness from said it was already wired for a USDM

sofar ive only had to solder on the correct dash plug (maybe it came from a 91-94?)

but once i get the harness plugged in correctly, im taking it back out, chopping all unnecessary wire and relooming/taping it (some people dont know that you are supposed to stretch electric tape when you wrap it)

[tyrannix]

damesta, cooli already have those all plugged in (maf, ignitor, dropping resistor)

i should be able to get it all done today now, maybe even redone today

once i get the car to actually start and run a bit on the ecu (mines tuned, camee with my silvia, may have just more aggressive map for bigger turbo+cuts)after that, the PFC goes in and i can put all the body panels back on and/or start painting

edit> BTW on the boost control solenoid, can i just put in a resistor and delete that too? (its been a while since ive played with resistors at all)

[damesta]

No need for a resistor, just leave it unplugged or cut the plug off and tape up the exposed wires so they don't short anything out.

[tyrannix]

i got it all installed last nite, then labeled everything and removed it, cut all the wires about 3-4 in from the ecu plug and seperated components from the rats nest

holy crap... once the looming and tape comes off...

wish i had my camera last night, really only pics could do this justice

i found more than one piece of speaker wire, and lots of wires just twisted together then electric tape wrapped loosly around it

but, all that said and done, now i have all good wire to start with to redo the harness

quick question, yellow with red stripe (3 way wire), tach signal, i have going to the ecu plug, the dash plug, then up in the harness it went to a taped off single plug (not the CAS?) is that a problem? or does it just need to go from ECU to dash? the guy i got it from said it was working, but im a little leery now

also, anyone ever use a Z32 ignitor? i got one with my z32 maf. should i even use it, and/or wire it in now or after i verify that everything else works (adding variables is bad, but the harness is all apart now, perfect chance)

[damesta]

yellow/red strip will be fine going straight from the ecu to the dash, iirc the taped off part goes to the check connector (pre-consult diagnostics port).

Ive used a z32 ignitor before as well, worked fine but theres no point to it unless you don't have a CA ignitor. If you want one of those I have a few extras 50.00 shipped.

[tyrannix]

cool, no i have all my junk, thanks tho

now, the next question, i have the injector wires all cut to length to the dropping resistor (in the new location behind the RH strut tower)

and now i see a problem,the FSM says blue/black is injector 4 to ECU (and it looks about right)

but the heavythrottle swap guide says blue/black is water temp to dash connector.... and it has a wire that matches on the dash plug.

and none (3) of the dash plugs i have match where the colors are in the FSM

so... really ... the blue/black wire goes 4th injector--->ECU pin 112

and coolant temp blue/orange goes into pin 28 on the ecu

(edit> 28 looked like 23 )

so, whats the deal with water temp into the dash harness? (into zenki 89 usdm dash harness)?

should i just splice the water temp signal to the ecu and the blue/black on the dash harness or what (or is water temp a different wire entirely?)
Modified by tyrannix at 7:00 PM 4/14/2006

[tyrannix]

EDIT> nevermind

looking thru my box of disassembled harness bits, looking for another blue wire, i see whats been holding me up.

its that damn single wire plug (that i didnt know what it did)it has a single L/B coming off of it (just like the diagram)

thanks for making more than one thing have the same wire nissan



---nevermind, i found it---

now ive been all thru the FSM, on the gauge cluster page, it definatly says blue/black is the source for teh w/temp ... but it doesnt come from teh ECU, it comes from "thermal transmitter"

now the wire off the water temp sensor is blue/orange

WTF happens between them? where does this blue/black wire come from?

what is this thermal transmitter if it isnt the water temp sensor?


Modified by tyrannix at 9:03 PM 4/14/2006

[tyrannix]

getting time to work on it is hard sometimes but last night i got power steering all completed

now, talking about wiresanyone elses harness use L/R for a ground sometimes?

i had another question, but i think i figured it out (staring at the wiring diagram is alot easier after you print it out and tape the 3 pages together)

and the brown wire ... goes to 3 sensors and that boost control solenoid, is that a ground as well? (guessing it shouldnt be grounded to the rest of the black wires for some reason?)

[tyrannix]

k, yeah, i traced where the brown wire goes to, it goes to the brown plug on the engine bay harness... but the wire on this plug isnt where the FSM says it should be... in fact, almost none of the wires match the FSM

and then theres the other detail that the brown wire on this plug had been cut and not used at all by its previous owner ... this leads me to guess that its another ground? (especially as seeing that it goes to a bunch of sensors/junk)

so L/R and BR are both grounds?

[biosehnsucht]

there are two temp sensors, one to the ECU and one to the dash gauge. dash gauge has the L/B wire that confused you, the ECU one is L/OR. so if you want your dash temp sensor to work at all you need to make that dash connector's L/B meet the one for the temp sensor (its that single wire connector you found, should clip onto the smaller water sensor's connector)

NEITHER BR or B/R should be grounds

brown is ign-switched 12V.

since most actuator gizmos are ground switched, and some sensors are detecting voltage via a resistance in the sensor..

look at that three page diagram and you see it go several places and it hits the fuse box at the bottom right of the diagram, a 10A fuse there, pulling power on the other side from B/R which is active both ign=on and ign=start ...

L/R is ECU ign coil relay controlled power output to the coils (F12, E101 is its mate and it becomes B/Y there on the coil subharness.. altho the diagram is a bit weird there) and split to the diag connector for diagnostic purposes.
Modified by biosehnsucht at 3:30 AM 4/26/2006

[nocwage]

A is definately boost control solenoid.

I've got a Silvia K and when I upgraded my turbo that part was removed.Infact I have it setting on the bench in my garage right now

[biosehnsucht]

also Y/R tach signal goes from ECU to dash, also on autos it goes to the auto computer. I don't recall if it also goes to the cruise control if you want to wire it up or if it was speedo that did, I'm too lazy to find my FSM at the moment.. but to make it run ecu to dash is what you need, CAS sends it signals to ECU on different wires, Y/R is an output to the tach

[tyrannix]

for real, L/R is pissing me off

ok, on the FSM, the FICD valve is B, L/Gmy sensor plug is L/R , L/G

this L/R HAS to be a ground?

so,... seriously.. L/R sometimes == ground? or what (and what compressor is that listed next to the FICD on the L/G ? )

CJ

[biosehnsucht]

No, B = ground. L/G turns on the AC compressor and also as its T'd into the FICD, raise the idle at the same time.

B is NEVER anything but ground.

L/R is not either - its power FROM the output of the ign coil relay TO the ign coils, not a ground.

I don't think our cars had the ign coil relay stock, I seem to recall that being the relay I added to my fusebox.. you don't have to add another relay, I just did it because I wanted to make it work as stock, and not put additional load on ECCS relay or draw power direct from battery un-relayed.

[tyrannix]

thats what im saying: im confused on itthe FCID plug i have is L\R , L\G

but in the FSM it is grounded ( B, L\G )

thats what the big discrepency is

[biosehnsucht]

if its really the FICD then just connect L/G to L/G and L/R to B.

are these colors from your CA harness's connector ?

[tyrannix]

thats what i decided must be done too... theres other discrepencies between my harness and teh FSM too, like a bunch of the engine harness-> bay harness (by battery) wires , almost all of them are in the wrong spots (according to the FSM) but they match up to the bay harness colors, so it doesnt matter.

there was also a fat L\R spliced onto the ground inside the harness when i took it apart (along with speaker wire)

so if i can get the IC pipes welded up, and this is the last part of the harness i need to work out, i might be able to start it up this weekend

CJ

edit> i just wanted that warm-and-fuzzy from having all the colors match..

[biosehnsucht]

are you referring just to differences between your harness and the EDM FSM that we all use, for the portion that is your harness? or everything? cause the stock harness parts (like the plugs by the battery) are different for USDM anyways vs JDM, much less EDM..

from what you said about speaker wire its obvious someone f'd up trying to do the wiring on that harness before!

man, when I redid mine (glad I did) I found connections that weren't even crimped or soldered, just twisted and taped.. insanity!!

no telling how messed up that thing is :P

I'd recommend checking continuity from each ECU connector pin to each point its supposed to go if its that bad

[tyrannix]

ive already cut apart the whole harness from the ecu plug about 4" out, and untangled and redid the whole thing, chopping out unnecessary pieces. and made sure it was all good wire im using

we should find out wthis weekend how good of a job i did

edit> this plug, O2 sensor, and MAFs was teh last thing i needed to sort out and route the wire, before i take the whole thing out again, resolder the ecu back on, and solder all the grounds to where they need to go
Modified by tyrannix at 1:33 PM 4/28/2006