Larger Injectors

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
NismoBgt
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I want to put larger injectors in. Im running a gt-28 turbo and want to take advantage of it. But becouse if space limitations I was not able to keep the AFM i had to put a VPC on. I have a stock ECU. SO now i want to put either 444 or 550 injectors in. Do i need to reprogram the ECU? or do I have to get another plug in module? Whats the best route?


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float_6969
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A SAFC or ECU retune. I'd actually reccomend both. Have a chip burned for your injectors and then dyno tune the car with the SAFC to fine tune the AFR's.

pulsar gtr
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If you need your ecu retuned, let me know, I can re-program it for you.email me with your set up, injectors size, maf, boost level, mods on the engine.

Cheers,

RafiPULSAR GTR

sideways danny
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float_6969 wrote:A SAFC or ECU retune. I'd actually reccomend both. Have a chip burned for your injectors and then dyno tune the car with the SAFC to fine tune the AFR's.
why do both??? custom tune the chip to the car (not just the injector calculations) and you'll get better gains that with an SAFC

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float_6969
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Because when they change the info in the eprom for larger injectors, it's still working off of the stock map, which doesn't always give the best and consistant AFR'S. You can tune the stock eprom on a dyno, but you need some specific hardware and software. For most people, it's easier to buy a chip that is setup for their particular injector and then, IF NEEDED, fine tune the fuel map with the SAFC.

I would reccommend buying the chip for the injectors you want, dyno'ing the car, and seeing what your AFR'S are like. Most people who do this find that the AFR graph isn't as nice as you would think. But I'm by no means saying it won't be either.

NismoBgt
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Ok I have another source that says the VPC with a chip for the larger injectors will handle to dutys well... Man the info on this stuff is all over the freaking place!! WHo know what the F*CK is what!

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f s t caz
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do the safc's control timing too?

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c-rad
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f s t caz wrote:do the safc's control timing too?
No, but if you lean them out enough they jack your timing all up. Thats the biggest drawback of them. If you have to lean it out more than 10%, you should get a base rom for your setup and then use the SAFC to fine tune. But for the cost of a SAFC, you can get the pocket romulator ($180) and an eprom burner ($40) and do a custom tune.

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f s t caz
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so then in order to get a proper tune (adjusted fuel and ignition maps), you either burn new eproms or go stand alone?

boost_boy
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f s t caz wrote:so then in order to get a proper tune (adjusted fuel and ignition maps), you either burn new eproms or go stand alone?
Precisely! And depending on what you're looking for in performance, that one time investment on a standalone might be the best lick.

Dee

dvd
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hrmm good info here. I think i'll email you or something about the chipping whenever i get all the parts i need. Then i'll just get a safc for fine tuning because i have no idea how to tune it myself =x

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240TweakerNewbee
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ECU tunes cost $400SAFC2's are ~ $300

for a bit more you could just get a PowerFC + Commander. Those are a complete ECU replacement with the capabilities of 1000 SAFC's. A much more precise way to tune. Still need the help of a dyno (unless you by a wideband O2 sensor and have a friend drive while you tune)

Rookieca18det
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How the hell is putting a new eprom chip in your ecu $400? The socket and chip can't be anywhere near that. Anyway, I think its a good idea to get the ecu retuned and then you can probably get a safc off ebay or from a friend for $180-$250. Like everyone else said you can just use the safc to fine tune. Im thinking of running a re-tuned ecu before I put on the e-manage. gone

-richard

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f s t caz
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i think after purchasing a socketed ecu and taking the car to a shop to have it dyno or street tuned, which ought to require the tuner to have a wide band and an undetermined amount of time (i wish i knew how much time it would/should take) plus the software to monitor and the hardware to reprogram, it wouldn't be hard to get up that high in price.

boost_boy
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You know it's sad to see so many guys that want to get into performance, miss the obvious information that can help with their dilemmas. Everybody wants a near 300hp or better car, but most of you cats don't listen. It's amazing how you would go and spend X-amount of $$$s on little magic boxes or crappily tuned chips that equate to you logging onto the forum to ask more questions about that same crap you just installed on your cars. You're gonna pay and you're going to go through a learning curve one way or another.

That kid MegasquirtCA spent a great deal of his cyber-time giving you an extremely cheaper, yet more powerful option of engine management, but some of you still aren't listening. But you can spend a grand on rims, $500 on ss autorcrap accessories, and so forth. I just think you guys like drama because for all the issues you are having right now excluding mechanical ones, a decent computer system will solve most of them.

If you're going to be a do-it-yourselfer, you guys may want to take the advice of fellow do-it-yourselfers because if you don't, what's the use of posting our advice and our experiences. And please spare me the poor college kid crap and ramen soup drama. If you own anything turbocharged, I would hope and pray that you researched costs and set realistic goals for yourself because purchasing a CA18DET is very much equivalent to the cost of a good standalone computer and if you have that kind of money to play, then be prepared to pay (Boost ain't cheap). If I had had my way in the past, I would of bought the standalone system first and let everything else fall where it may. I lived and I learned and it's why I am where I am at now (Better than I was 10 years ago). It's okay to be a little cheap, but to be cheap as well as bootleg is down-right disgusting and I can count quickly how many of you are bootleg and cheap. Yet, folks are still whining about their idle or their bootleg ARP studs and so forth and so on.

And before any of you respond to this I'll caution you to read my post carefully because I've crossed my Ts and dotted my Is. This is an "If the shoe fits wear and wear it well" post, so if it doesn't pertain to you, we can move on to other business.

Lastly, if you guys are still lost bring me $2600 and your CA, SR, or RB powered 240s and I'll install and tune a standalone system for you . They say if you don't know what you're doing, but want it done right, pay someone to do it for you. But that takes away the fun of being a do-it-yourselfer, huh!

Dee

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Bwana
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I'm totally with Dee on this, then again, I run a standalone. If you're cheap like me, watch ebay and pick one up. I got mine (SDS EM-4F) for about $800, then had to spend another $100 for parts that were lacking. Not too bad...

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float_6969
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TheColoradoQ wrote:I'm totally with Dee on this, then again, I run a standalone. If you're cheap like me, watch ebay and pick one up. I got mine (SDS EM-4F) for about $800, then had to spend another $100 for parts that were lacking. Not too bad...
I did EXACTLY the same thing and I'm very happy with it. The SDS is the best money I've spent on my car to date.

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mikesim
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i'm going to agree here. i used to believe fuel + boost tuning is all you need. now a wasted $725 later, i have an S-AFC 2 and Greddy VVC which are lacking severely in tunability.

for those of you not wanting to go thru wiring nightmares (most of us being electronics/electrical illiterate) here:

POWERFC + Commander http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...photo


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