lame rear brake problems, need advice

[poshatch]

ok so i went to a skid pad event a few weeks ago, i let somebody slide my car who wasnt used to it and he ripped my e brake crazy hard (it didnt have much travel and great bite before that day)

after that day the rear calipers were locking up randomly and staying locked a couple of times and i lubed the mechanical part of the calipers it stopped doing that

but now the rears dont seem to bite as much as they used too and the e brake feels like its hitting a certain point on the pull and not twisting the piston in anymore so its hitting a clamping limit. Also, i feel brake pressure slowly start to slip away as i put my foot on the pedal and it just goes down and down

but im not leaking any fluid from any caliper whatsoever, the car has no leaks at all. the car stops fine though just at a stop it does that

i pumped the pedal to build pressure and the usual 5 click pull of the e brake usually is enough to keep the car from rolling back, and it was fine then it started slowly creeping back so i had to pull it up an additional 2 clicks so pressure seems to not be holding

i never opened the lines so i doubt there is air in there

does anybody know what it could be??????? appreciate any help thanks everybody

[jekl]

When your at a stop and your pedal slowly goes to the floor without any external leaks its most likely your master cylinder. Any day at the track with regular brake fluid (DOT3or4) will require you to flush the system. A brake fluid flush would be the cheapest and easiest option to do first. Hope this helps!

[poshatch]

ok ill try bleeding it, i was really hoping to not do it cause its such a pain but oh well if it needs to be done it needs to be done

would the bmc really have an affect on the rears mechanical locking ability?

i still get the normal feel of the bmc at the moment but it may be a sign that its starting to go out, that sort of sucks =/// i think i got an extra one though which isn't so bad lol

[jekl]

The BMC won't really have an affect on the e-brake because its all mechanical, but it can cause the pedal loss at a stop. I have seen rusty e-brake cables cause some issues. You may want to inspect them when you do your flush. And check the cables at the handle for possible damage.

[poshatch]

yeah i looked at the system on the numerous times i was down there lubing them to keep them from sticking, like they were and they seemed ok

its funky cause sometimes it will take more or less pull to equal the same amount of stopping feel

i was having a hunch that it was maybe the pads, i doubt anybody remembers off hand but the pads have a random little nub on them and it seems that when assembled the 4 cut away's used to twist the caliper will get stuck in that nub and keep it from wanting to twist...but then they are stock replacements and all pads ive seen have those but that's how it appears however i doubt its that

if its not leaking then it cant be the seals in the caliper right?

or maybe its possible that when it was pulled super hard it just stretched the living hell out of cable but ive inspected and the e brake does pull the twist arm thing on the caliper all the way back, it just continues to go up and up and up with no extra clamping force

id like to find out what the issue is cause its somewhat irritiating

[jekl]

hey POSHATCH any luck with the brakes?

[poshatch]

they seemed to get a little better but they still arnt what they used to be, sort of a bummer to have a good working e brake one day then it goes to crap like all the others the next =/

oh well, im wondering now if i can make something to replace the oem units so its brand new fresh lines.

[1KleenS13]

If the parking brake is pulled to hard a couple things can happen, 1 is the cable stretches and 2 the dowel pin on the caliper bends and the ebrake gets feels soft. Also you may want to pull the caliper off and make sure the slides aren't stuck