L-turbo engine won't boost, ideas?

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themadscientist
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The wife's L has not produced boost since she bought it. It has been understandably down on power but ran consistently albeit like a low compression engine and I was busy so I did'nt worry. While I was in the state's though she says something "let go" and it really ran out of steam. The way she descibed it it sounded like a half blown turbo finally finished blowing. No proble, I have an extra laying around so I pulled the manifolds and checked it. Uh, the turbo is in better condition than mine! just lovely. Now I am worried, what the hell is going on? I am going to get a new actuator, this one feels ok but it is 20-years old. I won't know until i get it back together. I had replaced the OEM popoff valve on the intake with a Greddy adjustable in case it had gone weak and was bleeding boost. It wasn't that. I am going to put a blockoff plate in the EGR in case that is bleeding but I really doubt that as it has to open against the manifold pressure with a vacuum hose. The motor doesn't seem blown, there is no detrius in the ports, no oil either. The radiator is showing no trace of oil either so I am reasonably confident the head gasket is fine. This is very strange, none of my Ls ever did anything like this. So if I get it back together with a new actuator and a tune up (it's due; plugs, cap and rotor, set the idle and timing) and it still does not boost what might it be?



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evildky
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so when you get heavy on the go pedal what happens? does it slowly accelerate? does is surge or buck? is the boot from the turbo outlet to the J-Pipe in good condition? idlequality and drivabulity suffer? have you tried removing all the emissions stuff? all the vacume lines can be removed and plugged and it'l run fine, have you checked you CHTS?

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themadscientist
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
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well I put it back together and it fired up fine. It has a miss so I replaced the plugs and am waiting for a cap and rotor. The egr valve still looks supect so I am going to put a blockoff plate on it and see what that does. I did discover something neat. For the L-turbo you can use an HKS adjustable actuator! Take the stock one, drill out the spot welds and remove the actuator from the bracket, drill two holes in the bracket to accept the HKS one and bolt it on! Use the one for the R33 Skyline RB25DET, the studs are clocked in such a way they will clear the bracket.

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evildky
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didn't know you could buy the ones with adjustable rods, some of the L28ET's came with them, myself I just use a bleed style boost controller for now, I'll have to go fuzzy logic once some others things get wrapped up

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themadscientist
Posts: 29308
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

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I prefer to set my base boost physically then use the boost controller to up the fun factor when the time is right.


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