KUILLIN_DRIFTER AND GOOFYNICK

[USMCgetsome]

ok nick things i did today.

CHECKED:

CAS - 1V-5V when checked pin 2 and 3 to ground and turned cas. by the way my cas has a damn mitsubishi logo in the middle. WTF. is your's the same? have pics to prove it also.

Ecu Coolant Temp sensor (big one) - .435Kohm not sure if at normal temp i have no way of reading the engine temp just yet.

IAA - took off assembly and thourghly cleaned and tested. 10.2Kohm and had some carbon build up soo i cleaned it with Throttle body cleaner and toothbrush. The plunger worked in accordance with the work shop manual.

AIR FLOW METER - Have it hooked up to SAFC-2 and looked at readings no air 0vdc. air passing through 0vdc-6vdc used a compressed air can to do the test.

TPS: not depressed 0ohm. depressed infinity ohm.

no vaccum leaks. no oil leaks. no coolant leaks. I went for a drive without warming the car and took it for a lil burn out test. Was great. Idled great then i return home shut it off for about 7min. Turn it back on and instead of being a 850rpm it was at 550rpm and struggles to idle. I watched my alternator and i have 15vdc to the charging system. Idle is at 15btdc at 850rpm.

I bought the recirculation adaptor for the hks ssqv bov soo i can help the idle.

I also need to say that on my ecu my little led light is not there soo i have no way of reading my ecu codes. Sucks to be me. And i haven't touched the cal switch on the ecu.

that's all for today GOOFYNICK.

[BoostFab]

here's my suggestion, un hook the safc and get the car running first. then install the safc. this just minimize debugging possibilities.

[USMCgetsome]

i have the safc just reading. I unplugged the afm (yellow, white wires) from the safc to the afm sense signal to the ecu. I had it plugged in earlier today just to read the afm signal. I did as you guys suggested and am trying to get everything stock. But it's nice to have the safc tapped into the other wires just to read the signals.

[goofynick6]

Sounds like you're doing good at checking things over.

I've checked them all and they all seem fine on my car, but same thing; car runs amazingly until its up to operating temp, then it just wants to lean itself out and make it self stuggle to idle and die.

I just don't know.

NIck

[dekand]

my cas is Mitsu as well... i think most are

[USMCgetsome]

thanks for the confirmation DEKAND. how about an ecu part number check. i went to calibrate it and it was adjusted fully clockwise. So i put it centered. It helped the idle a little bit. here's the part number on the ecu

TJNISSAN 23710 21U01MEC-R521 A1 4324

same one you got goofynick?

another question. If i advance the crank by hand clockwise will that help my timing. My cas is 15btdc but it's fully counter-clockwise. If i put it at 650rpm it just won't handle soo i put it at 850 and 15btdc. Anyhow, if i advance the crank clockwise by hand will this help with the cas? just a shot in the dark.

reason for asking, awhile back i was having fuel injector o-ring problems and it flooded the block so in order to get out all the gas i had to move the crank by hand and use a turkey baster to get it all out. When i did that the crank was fully clockwise as it would let me go.

[T_love]

NISSAN 23710 21U01MEC-R521 A1 4324

09/93 - 04/94 R33 RB25DET, MT

[USMCgetsome]

Thanks for the confirmation T_LOVE. It is greatly appreciated. I'm thinking about trying a new ecu. seems to be the only thing i haven't swapped or confirmed to check. I checked all my signals out of the ecu such as fuel injectors spark plugs.

NICK have you tried swapping ecu's? have you checked for codes yet? are you 55.

[goofynick6]

I recently acquired a new ecu that is for a manual trans, not auto like mine. I have to socket it first though so I can load in my programming for the 550's and z32 maf.

Nick

[Bluefire]

Have you guys checked your os sensor?

-Bluefire

[goofynick6]

I've tried swapping with other used sensor, and even unplugging it; doesn't help or change it. I think that my o2 sensor isn't grounded well because the downpipe isn't really grounded; but if anything a bad o2 should cause it to run rich, not lean.

Nick

[USMCgetsome]

hey i went to nismo_rb25 house today and checked out his engine and we took it for a drive today. Mine feels the same but i'm gonna have someone comeover to do the timing again. Also, i got my reciculation adapter for my bov so i install and i tightened up the bov rubber gasket inside the bov and (i haven't ran the hose just yet) but it's running pretty damn good. it stumbles a lil when it comes back to idle but it's not dying like it used to. only thing i did today was unplug the ecu and turn the adjustment knob all the way to the left and then a few hours later i put it back in. So, now it's running alot better.

[USMCgetsome]

ok i recirculated my bov into the turbo pipe and wow. It has not shut off or stumbled on me. I'm soo happy with the results. I have a great idle now it is at 800rpm 15btdc and 50 +/-. Very stable. i have to venture off to an exhaust shop. my hangars came loose while i was driving on the highway doing a test drive. Needless to say it was bouncing all over the place and scared the crap out of me when it happened.

[NISMO_RB25]

Sweet! glad you got it running good now.

I am pretty confident with my mig welder if you need some exhaust help.

[USMCgetsome]

man i wish i could drive it over there but it's soo bad that it causes my rear end to vibrate alot. acceljunky is sending me his s1 rb25det manual ecu to test out for tach signal. This should also give me a new reference for my engine while i test his ecu.

[NISMO_RB25]

uh... what causes the rear end to vibrate, the exhaust being loose?

If you get in a bind, I can bring the Mig to you. We just have to get it on jackstands and I can climb under and weld it. Before anyone says it, yes I know you have to disconnect the battery before welding on a car, and thankfully I didn't learn that the hardway.

[USMCgetsome]

well i found out what made the car vibrate. The left hand drivers side wheel was loose. Seems like someone tried to steal it but didn't have the right wrench to pull off the other 2 custom lug nuts. here's a pic. but hell yeah i got a truck to bring it over to my place to weld up that damn exhaust issue. i had to personally break off the other 2 nuts and threads because they were already screwed up from driving it the other day. I didn't even notice it untill i got passed about 50mph.

[NISMO_RB25]

you really need to start reducing the size of your pics.

That sucks about the lug nuts. I had the rear wheel almost come off my RX before, so I know how scary it can be.

[Miata Master]

So Funny I read this right now. When I got to campus today i saw a civic stopped in the street it was tilted so i thought FLAT , but when I got next to it, it was sitting on the rotor AHAHAHAH.

That sucks about them stripping your lugs. I like my stock rims no one will ever try to steal them :p.

[USMCgetsome]

i've tried to make them smaller but the damn camera keeps the same size. Anyone know how much replacing the threads on this axle is gonna cost me? I have no idea what the nomenclature is for the threads. and i have to find a new rim. damn haters.

[Spazz]

knock those studs out and replace em. once theyre stripped theyre done!

[USMCgetsome]

how do you knock them out? And there's one that i still haven't been able to get off. i'm thinking of drilling out the middle and breaking it off. Anyone know what they are called?

[NISMO_RB25]

how do you knock them out? And there's one that i still haven't been able to get off. i'm thinking of drilling out the middle and breaking it off. Anyone know what they are called?

You can buy nismo wheels studs from just about anywhere, probably even the dealler, but they aren't cheap. SCC did a article on this before, but basically you take your brakes off, bet a BFH and drive them out of the hub.

you grease the new ones and tap them in. I have a 25lb sledge hammer if you need to borrow it.

[Spazz]

You can buy nismo wheels studs from just about anywhere, probably even the dealler, but they aren't cheap. SCC did a article on this before, but basically you take your brakes off, bet a BFH and drive them out of the hub.

you grease the new ones and tap them in. I have a 25lb sledge hammer if you need to borrow it.

What nismo said, be careful with your steering assy, and dont be over ambitious with the sledge hammer!

[BoostFab]

use a torque wrench to all the wheel lug nuts....80lb/ft

[USMCgetsome]

hey NISMO_RB25 i think i will take that sensor off your hands after all. The gauge moved finally. I watched it but it was still in the really cold range. I'm working on drilling the last lug nut off. And also, i tested out accel junkys SERIES 1 ECU on my engine and i see very little difference. I'm gonna have to put mine back in and see final results.

[NISMO_RB25]

no problem, you can have the sensor.

be carefull drilling out the studs. The hub has grouves in it, and you don't want to acccidently gring those out with your drill bit. A good penetrating oil, 2X4 and a hammer should get them out.

[USMCgetsome]

OK FELLAS, the timing on the rb25det has stabalized and it's working great and steady with a borrowed new ecu. Still having same issues with the power loss when at normal operating temp. It is totally driveable and i'm getting a new clutch put in soon. XTD STAGE 3 NA Z32. I did have a vaccum leak but figured it out. I have noticed that the turbo itself isn't working too well i get all the psi 8-10psi but it has compressor surge.

Tomorrow i'm buying a new freaking coolant temp sensor from a z32 and new fuel filter. I'm also thinking of buying a GTR turbo. You guys think that will fit on the stock manifold?

[USMCgetsome]

HA HA HA. IT was a stupid bosh 02 sensor that was supposed to be compatible with the rb25det motor from a CA18DET. I unplugged it today and drove it and viola no dying or sputtering or any other b/s. Later people.