Koni Shock
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ash1y1
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Koni Shock
Does anyone know how to install Koni shocks? Please post a detailed installation guide for installing both the rear and front. Thanks
To begin this process, it should be stated that the items installed in this scenario consist of 1.75 Intrax loweringsprings and Tokico shocks/struts. ************************************************************************Note: Installation may differ between different brands of equipment.
After acquiring the desired springs and shocks/struts, it is suggested the shock boots (on the front and rear) bereplaced to ensure the life of the equipment.
1. To begin this procedure it is easiest done on a spider lift, but jack stands will do (be careful).
2. Remove all wheels from the car.
3. Use some white out and mark the top of the camber plate (this is so the direction of the camber plate will bereinstalled in the proper direction).
4. Loosen the three nuts on top of the front struts under the hood (left and right side), but do not remove.
5. Remove the two nuts and bolts that attach the strut assembly to the caliper assembly.
6. Remove the retaining clip attached to the brake line that holds the brake line on the strut bracket
7. Once the two nuts and bolts that attach the strut assembly to the caliper assembly are removed, the three nutson top of the struts (left and right side) can be removed. At this time removal of the entire strut assembly will havethe spring attached to it.
8. The same procedure is done for the other side to remove the shocks/struts and springs.
9. With both of the front struts and springs assembly's removed it is then necessary to remove the spring from thestrut by the means of a spring compressor. ** DO NOT LOOSEN THE NUT DIRECTLY ABOVE THE SPRING, WHICH IS ON THE TOP OF THEPISTON SHAFT, UNTIL THE SPRING IS COMPRESSED BY THE COMPRESSION TOOL!!! ** FAILURE TO FOLLOW PROCEEDURES WILL RESULT IN INJURIES!!
10. When using a spring compressor be sure to adhere by the directions that are supplied with the tool. Reasonbeing that there are many different types of spring compression tool that can be used.
11. Once the spring is compressed enough that it is not applying any pressure to the top camber plate, it is thennecessary to remove the nut on top of the piston shaft, which will free the camber plate.
12. Then following the directions of your compression tool, loosen the compressor slowly and evenly.
13. At this time, you should have both the springs separated from both the struts.
14. Place new dust boot (if necessary) over the shaft of the piston
15. At this time you must remove the plastic coatings from the ends of the old OEM springs and place them onthe new springs in the same manner you found them.
16. Place the spring onto the strut, and slowly rotate until the proper seat is made.
17. Then place the camber plate on top of the spring. At this time it may be possible to push down on the camberplate enough to allow room to thread the nut on the top of the strut. If not, it will again be necessary to use thespring compression tool to allow the camber plate enough room to clear the threads on the piston shaft.
18. At this time you should have a strut with the spring on it, being compressed by the camber plate with the nuton top of the piston shaft tightened.
19. Then place the strut and spring assembly into the original location with the "white-out" in the same direction itwas in when you previously marked it.
20. Replace the three nuts on top of the camber plate, which are on the top of the shock wells, under the hood.This will hold the strut in place until the two lower nuts and bolts are inserted and tightened.
21. Now place the brake line into the bracket and replace the retainer clip to hold the brake line securely in place.
22. Tighten the three nuts under the hood that are on the top of the strut assembly.
23. At this time the other side should be done the same way, and the front will be complete.
24. Beginning on the rear shocks, it is necessary to remove the knock out plates in the trunk that cover up the topof the shocks.
25. Then remove the rubber cover that protects the top of the shock threads. There should be two nuts her thatneed to be removed.
26. Now loosen the one bottom remaining nut that is holding the shock in place. Once this nut is removed theshock should be free.
27. Here again the spring compressor should be used to compress the spring so that there is no pressure =on thetop plate of the assembly.
28. Once the pressure is released from the top plate, loosen the not on top of the piston shaft (A similarprocedure to the front assembly)
29. Now that the nut is removed, slowly and carefully loosen the spring compressor (evenly) until the spring isfree.
30. With the spring off reuse the rubber covers off of the OE springs and place onto the new springs in the sameplace. This should help to eliminate excessive noise within the spring seating.
31. Now with the new shock, slide the new dust boot over the piston shaft and set into its proper place.
32. Now the new spring (with the rubber covers) is slid down the shaft and seated into its proper place.
33. At this time, the top plate needs to be replaced and the nut is threaded onto the shaft. (However, it may bepossible to manually press down on the plate to obtain sufficient threads.
34. If the plate can't be manually pressed, reattach the spring compressor and compress the spring until there isenough clearance that the threads can be seen and the nut is tightened.
35. At this point, the shock should be assembled with the spring properly attached.
36. Now the shock must be replaced by installing the top part of the shock first. This will allow the shock to havethe two nuts replaced once it is in place.
37. Now the bottom of the shock needs to be connected. (Most times the shock seems longer and is moredifficult to replace by hand, so it is easiest if a floor jack is placed under the shock to raise it so the bottom will belevel with the shaft where it is being installed.)
38. With both shocks in stalled, the boots need to be replaced over the top of the shock (located inside the trunk)
39. Now replace the wheels and safely lower the car from it's stationary position and remember to have a4-wheel alignment for proper wear of the tires.
40. PUT AWAY TOOLs , and have fun
*These instructions were told by Kyle Bennett.**The sizes of the nuts and bolts were not given because I do not have aservice manual and it was written on the basis of memory.
Tips if trouble getting the new rear shocks on the mounting post.
When installing new rear shocks just use a 2x4 to pry down on the suspension with one hand and slip on theshock bottom with the other hand. Very easy.
DougEmail: [email protected]
More Tips
Last weekend I managed to self-install tokico shocks and intrax springs on my '90. Kyle Bennet's instructionswere a great help. Thanks buddy! although i'd still like to add some tips to further assist 240 fans.
Three things i'd like to add to the install procedure1-make sure you replace the camber plates while you've got the shocks off the car. in my case they were causinga sqeaky sound whenever i turned the wheel at parking lot speeds.2-get a torque wrench with a 17mm socket handy. the nut holding the bottom of the strut doesn't want to loosen. 3-i'd suggest you buy some pliers that lock up(sorry dont know the name) to remove the nut on top of the rearstruts. regular pliers wont do the job, cuz the whole piston shaft rotates within the shock body as you try to losenthe nut.
*getting the bottom of the shocks back(front or rear) was a breeze. get a friend to hammer it in froom under while you press the brake assembly down.
Name: Nabil JamaliEmail: [email protected]
Eibach spring rates for S13
The Eibach spring rates are 114/200 front and 114/148 rear for the Pro-Kit.The spring rates for the Sportlinesare 137/230 front and 128/200 rear.All rates are in lbs/inch and are progressive. The stock rates are 114lbs/inch.
Name: Jared TopilkoEmail: [email protected]
This is taken directly from 240SX.org
After acquiring the desired springs and shocks/struts, it is suggested the shock boots (on the front and rear) bereplaced to ensure the life of the equipment.
1. To begin this procedure it is easiest done on a spider lift, but jack stands will do (be careful).
2. Remove all wheels from the car.
3. Use some white out and mark the top of the camber plate (this is so the direction of the camber plate will bereinstalled in the proper direction).
4. Loosen the three nuts on top of the front struts under the hood (left and right side), but do not remove.
5. Remove the two nuts and bolts that attach the strut assembly to the caliper assembly.
6. Remove the retaining clip attached to the brake line that holds the brake line on the strut bracket
7. Once the two nuts and bolts that attach the strut assembly to the caliper assembly are removed, the three nutson top of the struts (left and right side) can be removed. At this time removal of the entire strut assembly will havethe spring attached to it.
8. The same procedure is done for the other side to remove the shocks/struts and springs.
9. With both of the front struts and springs assembly's removed it is then necessary to remove the spring from thestrut by the means of a spring compressor. ** DO NOT LOOSEN THE NUT DIRECTLY ABOVE THE SPRING, WHICH IS ON THE TOP OF THEPISTON SHAFT, UNTIL THE SPRING IS COMPRESSED BY THE COMPRESSION TOOL!!! ** FAILURE TO FOLLOW PROCEEDURES WILL RESULT IN INJURIES!!
10. When using a spring compressor be sure to adhere by the directions that are supplied with the tool. Reasonbeing that there are many different types of spring compression tool that can be used.
11. Once the spring is compressed enough that it is not applying any pressure to the top camber plate, it is thennecessary to remove the nut on top of the piston shaft, which will free the camber plate.
12. Then following the directions of your compression tool, loosen the compressor slowly and evenly.
13. At this time, you should have both the springs separated from both the struts.
14. Place new dust boot (if necessary) over the shaft of the piston
15. At this time you must remove the plastic coatings from the ends of the old OEM springs and place them onthe new springs in the same manner you found them.
16. Place the spring onto the strut, and slowly rotate until the proper seat is made.
17. Then place the camber plate on top of the spring. At this time it may be possible to push down on the camberplate enough to allow room to thread the nut on the top of the strut. If not, it will again be necessary to use thespring compression tool to allow the camber plate enough room to clear the threads on the piston shaft.
18. At this time you should have a strut with the spring on it, being compressed by the camber plate with the nuton top of the piston shaft tightened.
19. Then place the strut and spring assembly into the original location with the "white-out" in the same direction itwas in when you previously marked it.
20. Replace the three nuts on top of the camber plate, which are on the top of the shock wells, under the hood.This will hold the strut in place until the two lower nuts and bolts are inserted and tightened.
21. Now place the brake line into the bracket and replace the retainer clip to hold the brake line securely in place.
22. Tighten the three nuts under the hood that are on the top of the strut assembly.
23. At this time the other side should be done the same way, and the front will be complete.
24. Beginning on the rear shocks, it is necessary to remove the knock out plates in the trunk that cover up the topof the shocks.
25. Then remove the rubber cover that protects the top of the shock threads. There should be two nuts her thatneed to be removed.
26. Now loosen the one bottom remaining nut that is holding the shock in place. Once this nut is removed theshock should be free.
27. Here again the spring compressor should be used to compress the spring so that there is no pressure =on thetop plate of the assembly.
28. Once the pressure is released from the top plate, loosen the not on top of the piston shaft (A similarprocedure to the front assembly)
29. Now that the nut is removed, slowly and carefully loosen the spring compressor (evenly) until the spring isfree.
30. With the spring off reuse the rubber covers off of the OE springs and place onto the new springs in the sameplace. This should help to eliminate excessive noise within the spring seating.
31. Now with the new shock, slide the new dust boot over the piston shaft and set into its proper place.
32. Now the new spring (with the rubber covers) is slid down the shaft and seated into its proper place.
33. At this time, the top plate needs to be replaced and the nut is threaded onto the shaft. (However, it may bepossible to manually press down on the plate to obtain sufficient threads.
34. If the plate can't be manually pressed, reattach the spring compressor and compress the spring until there isenough clearance that the threads can be seen and the nut is tightened.
35. At this point, the shock should be assembled with the spring properly attached.
36. Now the shock must be replaced by installing the top part of the shock first. This will allow the shock to havethe two nuts replaced once it is in place.
37. Now the bottom of the shock needs to be connected. (Most times the shock seems longer and is moredifficult to replace by hand, so it is easiest if a floor jack is placed under the shock to raise it so the bottom will belevel with the shaft where it is being installed.)
38. With both shocks in stalled, the boots need to be replaced over the top of the shock (located inside the trunk)
39. Now replace the wheels and safely lower the car from it's stationary position and remember to have a4-wheel alignment for proper wear of the tires.
40. PUT AWAY TOOLs , and have fun
*These instructions were told by Kyle Bennett.**The sizes of the nuts and bolts were not given because I do not have aservice manual and it was written on the basis of memory.
Tips if trouble getting the new rear shocks on the mounting post.
When installing new rear shocks just use a 2x4 to pry down on the suspension with one hand and slip on theshock bottom with the other hand. Very easy.
DougEmail: [email protected]
More Tips
Last weekend I managed to self-install tokico shocks and intrax springs on my '90. Kyle Bennet's instructionswere a great help. Thanks buddy! although i'd still like to add some tips to further assist 240 fans.
Three things i'd like to add to the install procedure1-make sure you replace the camber plates while you've got the shocks off the car. in my case they were causinga sqeaky sound whenever i turned the wheel at parking lot speeds.2-get a torque wrench with a 17mm socket handy. the nut holding the bottom of the strut doesn't want to loosen. 3-i'd suggest you buy some pliers that lock up(sorry dont know the name) to remove the nut on top of the rearstruts. regular pliers wont do the job, cuz the whole piston shaft rotates within the shock body as you try to losenthe nut.
*getting the bottom of the shocks back(front or rear) was a breeze. get a friend to hammer it in froom under while you press the brake assembly down.
Name: Nabil JamaliEmail: [email protected]
Eibach spring rates for S13
The Eibach spring rates are 114/200 front and 114/148 rear for the Pro-Kit.The spring rates for the Sportlinesare 137/230 front and 128/200 rear.All rates are in lbs/inch and are progressive. The stock rates are 114lbs/inch.
Name: Jared TopilkoEmail: [email protected]
This is taken directly from 240SX.org
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ash1y1
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You must have some wonderful life to have the free time to research all my posts. Let me guess, you're a white trash Hillbilly making $8 an hour at the local Walmart right? Am I wrong? Yeah I'm sure you'll come back with some lie saying you're a Wallstreet banker or something, but that's ok, you've already shown what type of person you are. Secondly, if you're so bothered by my simple (previously posted) questions, turn your fricking pc off, go marry your cousin and get on the Jerry Springer Show. You'll get much more attention that way, ****HEAD!
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ash1y1
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Awww what's the matter? Did my comments hit a little too close to home? I can go on forever dude, a white trash hillbilly that feels the need to rag on others to make himself look better will can never bring me down no matter what he says. I can't take it just as much as I can dish it out. It seems to me like the second someone comes back to you with something, you make it seem like he threw in the towel. Dream on White Trash!! Unlike you, I chose to drive a 240, not because that's all I an afford.
p.s. You can end this game now or continue to look stupid by picking on a beginner trying to learn something about his car.
p.s. You can end this game now or continue to look stupid by picking on a beginner trying to learn something about his car.
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GoofyATX240
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GoofyATX240
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Jesus Christ, all i was trying to do was help a brother out. Yes, i just cut and pasted it, so what? It wasnt that hard at all, i was just damn glad to help. And you know what? I really appreciated his reply, made me feel glad that people appreciate a little help now and again. I was damn sure this thread wouldve ended there, i didnt see any point in continuing it. And now someone can search THIS forum and find the exact same instructions without having to go back to 240SX.org. I dont see the need for all the flaming. Cant we all just get along?!?
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ash1y1
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WOW! Sucked-On-A-Gay-Guy, you really put me in my place. I'm going to stop now before you come beat me up. Can we just be friends and forget this ever happened? I don't want to have enemies and feel so bad that I caused all this to come about. Please don't take anything I said seriously, I would just like to say...Do you know how to install Koni shocks? If so,please post a detailed installation guide for installing both the rear and front. Thank Sucked-On-A-Gay-Guy
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SpeeDDrifT
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Lost_To_A_K-Car wrote:The shock installation is a FAQ. JNM just cut and pasted it from that section.
Next time, look in the FAQ section first, and save everyone some time and bother.
i think ash1y1 and JNM if you care to read Lost's original post he was pointing out that your information you were seeking could be found in FAQ. and ASHL1Y1 since im sure you are willing to learn more about your car, i would think you would appreciate the FAQ section, i know i do. i really don't think anything he said was mean and warranted to be called a jerk-off hillbilly etc etc etc. so i leave you with that and hope that we can get along.
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ash1y1
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Hey we could all get along, and I'm going to let it go because this is not the only thing going on in MY life.
p.s. The reason I didn't reply for 3 days was because I'm not on this forum every day, I have a life to live, family to see and fun to have. Anyway, I will be the big man and apologize for bringing this forum down to the level we brought it to. I am just asking from you that in the future, should I ask a stupid question or one that has been answered and it pisses you off, just close that post and move on to the next one. Just like you think I can easily search the FAQ, you can just as easily skip my thread and move to the next one. Fair enough?
p.s. The reason I didn't reply for 3 days was because I'm not on this forum every day, I have a life to live, family to see and fun to have. Anyway, I will be the big man and apologize for bringing this forum down to the level we brought it to. I am just asking from you that in the future, should I ask a stupid question or one that has been answered and it pisses you off, just close that post and move on to the next one. Just like you think I can easily search the FAQ, you can just as easily skip my thread and move to the next one. Fair enough?
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s14=pimpin'
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The amount of time it took you to type your original question, you could have searched, found, read and even printed the answer, instead of posting and waiting for a reply. Lost was just trying to point this out to you, not start a flame war, but I guess it just came off the wrong way.
To save yourself this headache again, just do a search first, please. But it was nice of jnm240 to copy and paste the install procedure for you and other members. Would you mind going back and deleting all the flames, really brings down the quality of an otherwise really informative thread. And you will need an alignment after the install of springs and shocks, there is no do it yourself procedure, you need special equipment so go to a shop and get it done.
thanks
To save yourself this headache again, just do a search first, please. But it was nice of jnm240 to copy and paste the install procedure for you and other members. Would you mind going back and deleting all the flames, really brings down the quality of an otherwise really informative thread. And you will need an alignment after the install of springs and shocks, there is no do it yourself procedure, you need special equipment so go to a shop and get it done.
thanks