Knocking at 230 Miles After Rebuild

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
boost_boy
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float_6969 wrote:I hope you're not still learning all your lessons the hard way Dee, LOL!!!
Like, me being my own torque wrench by tightening bolts until your arm trembles :nono: . I've paid my dues and refuse to play myself ever again with foolish stunts.


nickhebert
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Well they didnt really feel like they where torqued done passed the 35 lbs. that it is surposed to be when I took them off.

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cbh148
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Welp, got the engine back from the shop about a week ago. $713 paid in full. The crank was ground .010 on all journals. They ended up using some other brand of bearing -- not ACL or Clevite, but Accu-something. Worth mentioning, they didn't put new rings on the pistons. Granted, they only had 230 miles on them (reminder: brand new Supertech pistons on a newly bored cylinder wall) but I had been thinking that they would need new rings since I know that shop hot-tanks everything they work on. I figured water would get on the cylinder walls and require a hone and new set of rings, but the guy at the shop said they used some acid wash or something that didn't get on the cylinder walls, so all is well.

It kinda pissed me off because I got the engine to the garage and mounted up on a stand then realized they put the crank girdle on backwards. I flipped it around myself, but having paid $300 for assembly labor alone, I figured there'd be no problems like this. And I don't like the fact that the torque on the mains are now set by me and my friend's torque wrench -- the same combo that may have fudged my bearings up the first time around.

I just put the engine back in last night and I should be starting it up today. Got my fingers crossed!

I'm going to be breaking it in with Rotella 10w-30. Dunno if you'd really call it break-in since it's the same rings on the same cylinder walls, but the journals and bearings are brand new so I guess it counts. I'll be a bit more gentle this time around. As with last time, I'll be changing the heck out of my oil frequently. I changed clutches (from a Spec stage 3 pressure plate with new ACT stage 4 unsprung 6-puck disc to a used but proven Spec stage 2 plate/disc setup) so hopefully the difference in break-in methods of clutches vs engines will not be a factor.

Can't remember if I posted pics of my CA18 before, but I recently got my phone fixed so now I can be picture happy.

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TheMAN
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I really think you need new rings in it, so good luck... if you're not making good compression, it should be on the machine shop's dime that they make it right!

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cbh148
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TheMAN wrote:I really think you need new rings in it, so good luck... if you're not making good compression, it should be on the machine shop's dime that they make it right!
Well they asked me if I wanted it re-ringed whenever I took the engine to the shop, and all I told them was that I didn't know if it even needed it since it's all new pistons/rings/bore, and they led me to believe that it wouldn't help it seeing as how neither the bore nor the rings were even really touched.

In other news though, it fired right up immediately. No knocking..... yet. And no lifter tick either, even though I didn't manually bleed the lifters and the head was turned upside down during disassembly. Gonna put a fresh batch of Rotella in here in a bit.

Off-topic question: Does anybody know definitively what pressure the stock wastegate on an s15 BB t28 is set to run at? I keep hearing people swear 7 lbs and 10 lbs and just wanted to know for sure since I don't have a boost gauge yet.

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float_6969
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7lbs. Check the compression soon. I'm not a fan of the idea of re-using the rings, even if they didn't touch the bores, but I'm interested to see how the compression turns out.

TheMAN
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it looks like you missed my post in this thread:
more-build-questions-ca18det-t552169.html

I explained why rings must be replaced any time you removed the pistons from the engine
if they were removed during this rebuild, then you needed new rings and a new hone... if they CAREFULLY left them alone and touched only the crankshaft, then you might be OK

either way, it's an expensive gamble that's not worth doing... had you posted here asking if that is something ok to do, we would've gave you a quick answer of "NO"

so good luck! as float said, check the compression later.... I'd go through the "break in period" (drive the crap out of it), then check the compression.... if it's low, then you know what the problem is.....

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cbh148
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TheMAN wrote:it looks like you missed my post in this thread:
more-build-questions-ca18det-t552169.html

I explained why rings must be replaced any time you removed the pistons from the engine
if they were removed during this rebuild, then you needed new rings and a new hone... if they CAREFULLY left them alone and touched only the crankshaft, then you might be OK

either way, it's an expensive gamble that's not worth doing... had you posted here asking if that is something ok to do, we would've gave you a quick answer of "NO"

so good luck! as float said, check the compression later.... I'd go through the "break in period" (drive the crap out of it), then check the compression.... if it's low, then you know what the problem is.....
I'll compression test it when I get the opportunity, but I think there's a chance that the shop never removed the pistons from the block. Granted, they line-bored the block and rods, but I don't know that either of those processes requires piston removal.

Just for future reference, what should my engine make during a compression test? Warm or cold? Throttle open or closed? Other spark plugs removed or in place? Boxers or briefs?

TheMAN
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everything you need to know about the compression test is in the shop manual

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cbh148
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TheMAN wrote:everything you need to know about the compression test is in the shop manual
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float_6969
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LOL!!!!


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