kicker solo baric l7 with rockford fosgate amp

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dnasty88
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im thinking about getting 2 10 inch l7s with a rockford fosgate T10001bd. is this going to be enough to push these subs? i know the rms is a little low but would that be a problem?

also if i bought any of these items factory renewed, with 90 day warranty...would i have a prob you think?


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AppleBonker
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dnasty88 wrote:im thinking about getting 2 10 inch l7s with a rockford fosgate T10001bd. is this going to be enough to push these subs? i know the rms is a little low but would that be a problem?

also if i bought any of these items factory renewed, with 90 day warranty...would i have a prob you think?
Hmm. Well, that sub is available as either a dual 2-ohm or dual 4-ohm configuration. If you pick up two dual 4-ohm subs, you can wire each to a 2-ohm load, and run them parallel to have the amp see 1-ohm overall. That amp is stable to one ohm, and will push 1000 watts at that impedance (actually, maybe a touch more cause it will probably be slightly underrated - you'd have to check the birth sheet). The subs can handle 600 watts each, so that should be acceptable. Make sure the gains are set correctly, and you can probably push a little over 500 watts RMS to each sub.

If you get them respiffied, you should be ok. If they function out of the box, you should be fine. If not, the warranty will take care of this. Pushing the amp too hard will fry the subs (if you push the amp to clipping you can easily blow the subs with less power than they can handle). If this happens after 90 days, you'll be SOL. However, you could easily blow brand new subs the exact same way. If you can get a deal on them factory renewed, you shouldn't be worried about this. Again, the gain setting is the most important part in ensuring your investment lasts!

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rjdmmfl1
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AppleBonker wrote:
Hmm. Well, that sub is available as either a dual 2-ohm or dual 4-ohm configuration. If you pick up two dual 4-ohm subs, you can wire each to a 2-ohm load, and run them parallel to have the amp see 1-ohm overall. That amp is stable to one ohm, and will push 1000 watts at that impedance (actually, maybe a touch more cause it will probably be slightly underrated - you'd have to check the birth sheet). The subs can handle 600 watts each, so that should be acceptable. Make sure the gains are set correctly, and you can probably push a little over 500 watts RMS to each sub.

If you get them respiffied, you should be ok. If they function out of the box, you should be fine. If not, the warranty will take care of this. Pushing the amp too hard will fry the subs (if you push the amp to clipping you can easily blow the subs with less power than they can handle). If this happens after 90 days, you'll be SOL. However, you could easily blow brand new subs the exact same way. If you can get a deal on them factory renewed, you shouldn't be worried about this. Again, the gain setting is the most important part in ensuring your investment lasts!
Applebonker, you know to leave the Rockford questions to me

Actually, the T10001bd amp is the 2007 series Power amps from Rockford.

That amplifier is just as powerful (if not more powerful) than my T15001-bd Rockford Amp. They changed the configuration of the amp (just like JL audio did with theirs) and took out the fan, shrinking the T1500-1bd to about 1/3 the size of the T10001-1bd. Altough biggter and heavier and a slightly older generation amp, that thing is a monster!

The actual specs of the T10001-bd is as follow

~ 750 watts @ 4 ohm~1050 - 1100 watts @ 2ohms~1450 - 1550 watts @ 1 ohm.

I would buy 2x dual 2 ohm woofers and wire them to 2 ohms. That way, they would be seeing about 500 - 550 watts RMS each, and they will pound. Rocklford's power amps drop from ~ 89% effiency to like 67% effiency when running at 1 ohm, and although they are stable at 1 ohm, they are not as efficient!
Modified by rjdmmfl1 at 12:38 PM 8/31/2008

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AppleBonker
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rjdmmfl1 wrote:
Applebonker, you know to leave the Rockford questions to me
Haha. Busted! Yeah, I guess I'd listen to Doc here on this one. Pretty sure he knows the ins and outs of RF better than I do (ok, completely sure). Point is, that should pound well. If the amp is going to run better at 2 ohms, and still push that much power, two dual 2-ohm impedance subs would then be ideal. Doc, you win.

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rjdmmfl1
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AppleBonker wrote:
Haha. Busted! Yeah, I guess I'd listen to Doc here on this one. Pretty sure he knows the ins and outs of RF better than I do (ok, completely sure). Point is, that should pound well. If the amp is going to run better at 2 ohms, and still push that much power, two dual 2-ohm impedance subs would then be ideal. Doc, you win.
Its all good, RF products can be difficult to gauge going by their released specs alone... its like the GT-R, they underrated everything in terms of specs released...

In any case, to the OP, all of this applies specifically to RF products, don't assume that if you go with another amp (like JL for instance) those types of numbers will change (comapred to released specs) like the RF numbers changed.

JL audio, for example, is the opposite of RF regarding their released specs.. not only are their released specs very accurate, but they actually are the same regardless of what ohms of resistance you wire you woofer to.... so if you go with a JL 1000.1 amp, it will push 1000 watts @ 4 ohms,3 ohms, and 2 ohms and 1.5 ohms because JL internally regulates their amps!

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Rellz CT
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apple and doc

are u guys audio salesmen?

if not

you definitely should be

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AppleBonker
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Rellz CT wrote:apple and doc

are u guys audio salesmen?

if not

you definitely should be
Ha. If I ever win the lottery and come into a bunch of money, I've always said this is something I would do. I'd love to open up a home/mobile A/V store and sell and install this equipment. I waste nearly all of my free time researching products and trying to test them out. Man is this an expensive hobby. I'd probably also open up a gym. If I had those two locations, I think I could work nearly 18 hours every day and be a very happy man.

dnasty88
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aight so i talked to my brother who is heavy in to car audio and he ntold me to do what apple bonker told me to do...how much off a difference will i see if i go with the 2ohm woofers vs the 4ohm and the different install scenarios

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rjdmmfl1
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dnasty88 wrote:aight so i talked to my brother who is heavy in to car audio and he ntold me to do what apple bonker told me to do...how much off a difference will i see if i go with the 2ohm woofers vs the 4ohm and the different install scenarios
I have never and would never run subs down to 1 ohm... its a sure fire way to blow them eventually... also, as mentioned, the bass is not as clean as running @ 2 ohms...

PLease understand that if you wire these subs down to 1 ohms, your Rockford amp will be pushing 1500 watts, sending ~ 750 watts to each woofer.... keeping the gain down, you could get away with this scenario, turn the gains up, and good luck with the longevity of those woofers... although I would guess that the solobarics could handle 750 watts if they had to, but again, I wouldn't put that much power to them, especially if you don't have to....

its your system and your money, just make an informed decision...

read this set of reviews on your amp

http://catalog.ebay.com/Rockfo...tabZ3

and look at this birthsheet of the T10001-bd amp

http://images.google.com/imgre...a%3DN

THis is not abnormal, everyone of their birthsheets gives the real power of that particular amplifier, and its ALWAYS alot more than what the normal specs are!


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AppleBonker
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I'm with Doc on this one. If the birth sheet shows that the amp will push over 1100 watts RMS at 2 ohms, getting two dual 2-ohm subs can wire them to a 2-ohm load that the amp will see. Each will then get nearly their maximum rated power. I think this is probably the best way to go, and safest on all of your equipment. Since Doc knows his RF stuff, I'd be confident that you'd get enough power out of running a system this way. Based on the listed specs, my original recommendation would be ideal. However, based on birth sheet data, going the way Doc said (as listed in this paragraph) is your best bet!

Oh yeah Doc, my sub is actually at about a 0.75 ohm load. It's a dual 1.5-ohm voicecoil configuration. So it is doable, but you are right that it will place a lot more stress on all of the equipment and you need to be much more careful.

dnasty88
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lol i was always told theres no such thing as a stupid question. you keep refering to gains..are you talking about the dials on the am itself. or the wired remote that comes with it, or both?

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rjdmmfl1
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dnasty88 wrote:lol i was always told theres no such thing as a stupid question. you keep refering to gains..are you talking about the dials on the am itself. or the wired remote that comes with it, or both?
Applebonker has a VERY GOOD tutorial about gain setting and "proper gain setting" on his FAQ at the top of the A/V forum. He can get away with a .75 ohm load because he properly sets his gains, the average person thinks the gain is a bass boost and that is not correct.


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AppleBonker
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In the gain setting tutorial, I didn't mention an bass control knobs like you are referencing. My amp that is running to the sub has one of these as well. I didn't even connect mine, and I would recommend you do the same. I'm pretty sure all aftermarket head units have the ability to adjust at least the bass, so I would use this over a knob. If you set the gains with the knob turned halfway up, you could easily damage equipment if the level on the knob is turned up any more. It's far easier to just leave it out.

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rjdmmfl1
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AppleBonker wrote:In the gain setting tutorial, I didn't mention an bass control knobs like you are referencing. My amp that is running to the sub has one of these as well. I didn't even connect mine, and I would recommend you do the same. I'm pretty sure all aftermarket head units have the ability to adjust at least the bass, so I would use this over a knob. If you set the gains with the knob turned halfway up, you could easily damage equipment if the level on the knob is turned up any more. It's far easier to just leave it out.
this is where applebonker and I differ a bit... I would suggest you connect the remote bass knob, and adjust your gain with the knob turned up to the loudest you would ever want the bass... by doing this, you properly set the gain at the correct voltage, and won't ever get more than this, however, when a nice jazz song comes on, or an R&B, or soft rock song is playing, you can turn the bass down, and just hear the music...sometimes, bass isn't a good thing for certain genres of music... just my .03

Also, sometimes if I have a headache, I'll turn my bass down using the knob... just a bit quicker than going through the deck

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AppleBonker
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Doc is correct here. If you are going to connect the bass knob, set the gains with it at the max setting.

Neither method (connecting or leaving the knob disconnected) is better than the other. My way is slower to reduce the bass, but Doc's requires mounting the knob somewhere/running the wires. All up to personal preference!

dnasty88
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i appreciate your responses. it has helped me a bunch. thanks.


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