Hey guys,

My ignition key tumbler stopped moving today. Steering wheel isn't locked. Transmission is properly in park. Tried adjusting both while trying to turn ignition key. Jiggling the steering wheel and the key in the lock will get it to turn.

Is there an easy fix to this problem? Starting to feel like Ground Hog day.

Forkster.
01-Sentra-GXE

Sounds like the tumblers are wearing out if jiggling helps. Some graphite key-lube down the barrel will usually keep them working for awhile. Drip it onto the key and not just down the barrel, to spread it around. Could be your key is worn out as well. Try having a valet key cut at the dealer using the factory key code instead of a copy machine (they can look up the key-cut code from your VIN). If the valet key turns a lot easier than your old one, you know the old one is worn. If your car has NATS (smart key), don't use the valet key in the ignition too many times. It will light the security lamp and throw a lockout code, and after 7 consecutive tries your ECM can commit suicide.

Thanks vstar650 - I would agree on a worn key - since the car has just 53,000 miles on the odo it might be from a plethora of granny trips (was grandmas car - now a daily driver for a quick jaunt to work).

I’ll try the second key to see if it helps. Not sure Gran had a valet key - I’ll look for it.

Like I said, you can have one cut to the original dims from your VIN number. It won't be expensive for a plain steel dup, and it will tell you positively whether it's a worn key or worn cylinder. You're most welcome, happy to help!

vstar650CL - I've tried the spare key and it wouldn't even budge. When I squirted WD-40 into the tumbler, it started moving freely again - not great - it would stick on 4/5 start attempts. The only change I can think of is that the car interior had some snow in it, and the lock got wet/humidity is causing it to stick?

Dry it out, and then graphite the crap out of it? Great suggestions/info btw.

Yep. Hairdryer down the barrel will dry it out quick if you think there may be water in there. If graphite doesn't help after that, you're into a new cylinder.

Hello; Not sure how this fits in with the discussion, but will comment on two things. First about a factory valet key. I bought a 2001 Sentra new. I have been using the valet key almost all the time over the years since. Many thousands of starts with it I imagine. However it was the key I was using last week when the car would not start and now throws P1610 and P1612 codes. I may have misunderstood the comment Vstar650cl made about trying a new cut valet key. Mt take is to just use that key a couple of times to check if the mechanism is worn or the old factory key.

The other comment is about what wears out a key mechanism. My take is having a lot of extra weight on the key ring is often the problem. May be best to have the least amount of extra stuff on a key ring.

Ok - so an update on this.

While I was taking off the old ignition lock, I loosened & removed the top bolts and as I was getting ready to remove the housing, I noticed that it was - how do I call it - crooked - it was not aligned with the tumbler hole in the plastic housing. I grabbed my hammer, tapped it up a bit (maybe a couple mm - 1/16 inch), and then retried the ignition key. No. More. Grabbing.


I took a look at the new ignition assembly on the passenger seat - and I think found the culprit to the sticky key with a car that has just 53'000 miles. Turns out, at the bottom of the ignition tumbler is a lock tab that goes into the steering column. If the ignition lock assembly isn't aligned properly on the steering column, and the tab gets stuck retracting when you stick the key and try to turn, it won't let you turn the ignition tumbler. So - something to think about if your key suddenly starts sticking - make sure it's aligned properly.