I recently posted my success of replacing the master window switch. My existing switch would power down but not up on 2 windows but all windows power up & down fine after the replacement. However, now my key fob doesn't work. I have attempted the re-programming procedure of key-in-and-out 6 to 10 times within 10 seconds (see below) but the hazard flashers don't come on indicating that the procedure is activated. The locks work as expected from the panel switch. Is there something I have overlooked?

Copied from the internet:

1. Close and lock all doors with the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch.

2. Insert key into ignition and remove it from the ignition key cylinder at least six times within 10 seconds. Your Hazard Lamps will flash if you have performed this step successfully. NOTE: Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder each time.

Not being a wiseguy , but what's overlooked : Fob DID work previously - OK , BUT you have'nt said and one really would'nt know if the KEY programming had worked ? when ? how long ago ? Like did you program key it last month ? 2 weeks ago ? or 2 days ago ?

I've seen (mine won't register the key) many a situation where the key recgognitioning to "register" each key insertion is faulty. My case, key doesn't register.

You may TRY to insert the key 1 or maybe TWO more insertions than your doing - even up to ,say , 15 or twenty in the specified time period . Figuring that some of the " un-recognized" insertions DON"T COUNT??

So in other words KEY re-programming possibly faulty - discovered NOW.
AND you may NEVER know nor find out what exactly "dropped" the FOB capability ? Unfortunately .

macgiver wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 27, 2019 8:04 am

Not being a wiseguy , but what's overlooked : Fob DID work previously - OK , BUT you have'nt said and one really would'nt know if the KEY programming had worked ? when ? how long ago ? Like did you program key it last month ? 2 weeks ago ? or 2 days ago ?

I've seen (mine won't register the key) many a situation where the key recgognitioning to "register" each key insertion is faulty. My case, key doesn't register.

You may TRY to insert the key 1 or maybe TWO more insertions than your doing - even up to ,say , 15 or twenty in the specified time period . Figuring that some of the " un-recognized" insertions DON"T COUNT??

So in other words KEY re-programming possibly faulty - discovered NOW.
AND you may NEVER know nor find out what exactly "dropped" the FOB capability ? Unfortunately .

Thanks for replying. Wife's car so I don't drive it or use the accessories much. She mentioned it to me yesterday but said that she doesn't use the fob all the time, doesn't lock the car at work, nor when it is in our garage . So, the history of exactly when it stopped working is uncertain.In other words, was it not working before I did the switch repair or did I do something during that repair to cause the problem? I dunno. BTW, the 1st thing I did was check the 3V coin battery; was slightly over 3V. Then I began the programming effort.

To recap, I believe you are saying that, in your case, the programming feature doesn't work either & that maybe it is hopeless (on an older car like this) or not worth the $ to track it down, yes? Was hoping there is an overlooked solution so I hope someone who had the problem & resolved it will get back to me. Thanks again.

Ditto , and I just bought new Juke batteries for two fobs , a Walgreens , Everready 2-pack . One measured 3.32V , the other 3.24 V - I thought they might have been a little closer , near same? FOBS very delicate , and hate to say I've HEARD some have broken theirs simply trying to install batteries - gotta be real carefull there.

One tip on FOB is Like Autozone has a display 'stand' that checks FOBs , wheher they are RF or whatever , so like IF your wondering - " Is it even putting ANY signal out there ?? ". Like sending an RF signal, yet simply not "synchronized" to car ??
Autozone will find that out for you - BEFORE YOU DO THE BATTERY !!

9899pathfinder wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 27, 2019 9:22 am

or did I do something during that repair to cause the problem?

Did you disconnect the car battery before working on the window switch?

rgk wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 27, 2019 7:35 pm

9899pathfinder wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 27, 2019 9:22 am

or did I do something during that repair to cause the problem?

Did you disconnect the car battery before working on the window switch?

Should have but I didn't. Think I fried something?

Nah.

What make/model are you driving?

rgk wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 27, 2019 7:54 pm

Nah.

What make/model are you driving?

2003 QX4. BTW, I went to Autozone & tested a fob that I had ordered several years ago but never used. I put a battery (not sure how old it is) in that fob that tested slightly over 3V on my multimeter. The tester gizmo that AZ had did not respond when I tried the test. The AZ mgr. said that the store tester only tests batteries, not the fob itself ... but I'm not so sure. I ordered some new batteries & will continue my pursuit of this problem.

My suggestion is to use a stopwatch to ensure you are inserting the key exactly every one second. Most instructions say six times under ten seconds, but I have found one for an older model that states ten times in ten seconds. A good rhythm is key.

Sounds like that A-zone guy explains things in a confusing way , the stores that have a FOB tester YES are testing the battery because 1) your holding the FOB , pressed it's button and the 'tester' I'm referring to DOES recognize a 'signal' emanating out of FOB through thin air - yah THAT tests the battery , DAH Dee Doh
2) BUT the testing machine WILL NOT KNOW if that signal shall open your particular car , as it had done when it WAS SYNCH-ED or 'paired' to your vehicle. Output only ,get's tested (christ's sake and battery too!)

And not just A-zone have those kinds of FOB testers.

Okay, it's working . Here's the deal: evidently years ago I bought 2 fobs; one was in use (replaced a broken unit), the other on the shelf. I likely programmed the in-use one way back when. Then, wife tells me last week that its not working. I find a who-knows-how-old 3V battery that tests ok & insert it in both fobs. Nothing . Go to AZone yesterday & test. Nothing. Get some new batteries today & insert one in the in-use fob. Voila! Insert battery in 2nd (shelf) fob. Nothing. Evidently I didn't program it back when.

Never got the key-in-key-out programming to work but I think rgk is right; maybe need to time the procedure better. That, however, if for later since I now have a functioning fob.

I guess the main takeaways for me: pick the brains of the great contributors to this site & don't give up.

I tried the programming myself today, because my Pathfinder forgot my fobs after I removed the battery terminals from my car battery, and because I was thinking of your problem.

I got the hazards to flash after six inserts, and came to realize that this would work for you whether the fob was working or not. Unfortunately, I could not program mine either, and had a flashback to five years ago when I bought the car: I remember never receiving confirmation that the sequence worked correctly, but that the fobs started worked a day or so later, which was super weird. It was as if the programming needed a day to cure. I didn't really have time to complete the sequence today, so I can't say what the correct procedure might be. I'll let you know if in the near future I figure it out.

rgk wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 29, 2019 4:00 pm

II'll let you know if in the near future I figure it out.

That would be great. Thank you.

I plan to replace my master PW switch. So, did that cause your FOB to lose programming or not? I can't tell from reading this thread.