kat almost ready

[180sx]

Hi i wasn't on in a while got stuck working lots lately and haven't worked on the car for a bit. but my final parts are here and this weekend its coming together,.! SO my question is what should i be doing ..(i did search , and pps argue more and call each other bulshieters more than helping in threads)

180k kms on my ka24e it has brand new headkasted valve seals ..the whole gasket set was replaced , new chain guides sprockets (all oem) added vlsd new clutch. decided to leave block alone till winter

t3 .48 turbine rebuild 0 shaft play internaly gated at 7psi fmic 24" by 10^ by 3" :2.75" int piping hks bov: 3" custom dp 3" exhaust piping streight 3" piping no more egr crap

no when i fire this thing up on sunday as expected(hoping...)is 7psi ok? before i changed above parts above my compression was 155 160 160 165

dude i got it off run NOs on it before, i know the dude well and i know that only 3 full tanks were accually used as long as he had it and it was throttle injected i got car with nos (won't be using it yet)

i also purchased walbro 255 (physicly looks smaller than factory one did i get ripped off???) i have 4 rx7 non turbo first gen 460cc inj and electronic bost controler(boost graphix )and i do have megasquirt arriving shortly.

now in a meanwhile is there a point droping in 460cc ??? are they goint to work properly without safc or untill i get megasquirt or they good as stock untill than.

also if i do leave everything stock(fuel system) how far can i push my luck to what i've read about 12-15psi ? does that sound right?

and my last issue is since factory ecu is non turbo how far should i be retarding my timing manually to be on the safe side??? thanks guys can't wait to feel the boost got some sr dreams to destroy

[LEMHEAD16]

I am in the same boat as you. I am almost done with my KA24ET. I am running almost the same set up as you except I have an external wastegate and emange for timing and injector control. I wouldn't even try 7 psi without your fuel management you don't want to blow something up because you are impatient. you have some this far I would wait untill everything is here and then go for it.Good luck

[180sx]

SEE thats what i mean i read where people boosted similar turbo to 13psi on factory fuel and still running good. also i seen some dude run sr20 ecu on his ka24et and sr injectors boosting close to 20psi .. is it all bull i am reading and i am better of waiting till i drop in megasquirt or will factory handle 7psi without issues , i mean some of you have run stock fuel systems here

[PapaSmurf2k3]

no, you cant run the 460cc injectors without the safc, or some other fuel tune. Also, I wouldnt try anything past 4psi on factory fuel system. If you saw in another thread someone was running 13 or whatever, then they are lucky they havent leaned out and detonated. be patient, and stay on the safe side of things.

[180sx]

OK so i was reading that u can get different wideband sensors , for example bosh makes em and they are like 40$ those are for factory turbo vehicles . so if i buy that and i do have a/f and boost gages once i hook up my wideband and a/f gage am i not going to see if i am starting to run lean and facing detonation???

[180sx]

also can i hook up my o2 wiring into wideband too? or do i have to keep my o2 sensor ? as well by retarding timing all the way am i not going to be on the safe side , before i complete my fuel system upgrade and go dyno?

IMPORT ant i think in other post is boosting t3/04 to 8 psi on factory fuel system running ~8psig on t3/T4stock injectorsstock FPRstock ECUstock timingstock MAFWalbro 255lph fuel pumpMSD blaster 2 coilNGK plug wiresrange colder copper spk plugs

can someone tell me how should i set my dials on ebc it gives me ability tO change boost every 500 rpm and boost levels showed on dials 0 to 100???
Modified by 180sx at 10:02 PM 8/11/2005

[180sx]

here it is

[Import_Ant]

what year is your car? the factory changed over the cr in the KA24E motors in mid 89 to 8.6:1 from the 9.1:1 ratio. Compression ratio will affect how much boost you can run safely on your stock setup. if you're not sure look on your air box. when they lowered the compression ratio they added an AIT (air intake temperature sensor) it's on the side of the airbox and wires in to the same part of the harness your MAF plug comes out of.

I'm running 8.5psig~ right now on a T3/t4 turbo w/ same ar as yours.

stock injectorsstock FPRstock ECU.stock ignition timing set to 15 deg BTDC (I was running 20BTDC because of some confusion and it handled it just fine for about two weeks but I'm not taking chances so I went ahead and retarded it back to stock)

I have a Walbro 255lph fuel pump but that's it as far as the fuel department goes..

a couple of things i would suggest putting on your 'to buy' list;

An ignition coil. MSD Blaster 2 is a good option, you can use your stock ignition coil wire and it's just a 2-wire install. I picked mine up from Jegs.com for 40$ and it has made a noticeable difference in responsiveness and the car idles ALOT smoother.

Spark plugs are a must too. I'm using NGK BKR6E-11's. they're a range colder than stock and you can get 4 for around 7$. you want to re-gap them to about .036 since they're gapped at .044 out of the box I believe.

oil cooler! its something that gets overlooked but you're going to be cooking your oil in that turbo. It's not super expensive and will help prolong the life of your engine and turbo. i picked a Perma cool brand oil cooler up from Jegs.com for about 80$ shipped I believe. had everything i needed to install it.

As far as your fuel pump, yes the walbro unit IS smaller than the stocker. dont let that frighten you it DOES flow more fuel.

I wouldnt bother retarding stock timing if you're going to keep boost below 10psig but I REALLY would reccomend upgrading your ignition components. the stock MAF for the SOHC motor can handle a bit more airflow than its DOHC counterpart from what I've been told but neither are going to be happy anywhere past 9-10psig of boost. at that point you're really maxing it out and asking for trouble. if you can afford to do so, save and get an SAFC since you'll be able to adjust the voltage to compensate for the different maf when you end up upgrading to a Z32 or Q45 maf. Obviously the best option is going to be a standalone but we're KA owners not SR owners, we cant throw away money like its paper (j/k guys).

ALSO SOMETHING THAT PEOPLE DONT ACTIVELY MENTION, RETARDING YOUR TIMING >WILL< INCREASE YOUR EXHAUST TEMPS. sorry for the caps but I dont want anyone to get a false sense of security by retarding their timing all the way. it CAN and WILL increase your exhaust temps to excessive levels if you go too far. Plus you're going to be losing a good deal of power if you mis-tune your car to be 'safe'. just play it smart and upgrade your basic engine functions like ignition and fuel then get some accurate gauges (wideband, EGT, and Oil pressure sensors to begin with) then start working w/ increasing your boost. that's the best way to play it safe IMHO.

as far as your wideband question it really depends on the unit you buy. some have a "narrowband output". the PLX M-300 was just discussed in a post yesterday and it does have an output like that. you just want to wire it to the wire that goes from our stock O2 sensor to the ECU. you want to find a wideband O2 that has that narrowband output or else you will have to weld a seperate bung for it since there isn't a signal output for your ECU.

I dont know what to say about your EBC... I'm running a Hallman MBC and it's working for me, hopefully someone can help you w/ that.

Sorry for the long post, hope i covered everything I'll check back and see if I forgot something.

happy boosting.

[onosqv]

SWEET, so the sohc w/ the 9:1 compression ratio doesn't have the ait?

Thanks, I've been trying to figure out what my 89 was for a while, hahaha.

THANKS!

And about the wideband -> analog, yes, like Import_Ant said, some of them have an analog output. However, depending on your budget, which I think you are trying to keep it as low as possible, you may want to just weld an extra bung & only use wideband for tuning/testing, then plug it up for normal driving.

Wideband life is much lower than regular o2. However, if you have the money to replace your wideband every few months or so, maybe a little longer - varies w/ the wideband - how it's installed - how it is driven - etc, then it would be a good way to be able to keep an eye on ur a/f ratio.

[Import_Ant]

SWEET, so the sohc w/ the 9:1 compression ratio doesn't have the ait?

Thanks, I've been trying to figure out what my 89 was for a while, hahaha.

THANKS!

that's one way to check...

[onosqv]

Yay for low compression, hahaha.

You don't happen to have a service bulletin that says "AIV" recirculation is recalled and not necessary do you? :-D.

[Import_Ant]

I wish... lol

[574-240sx]

Are you running megasquirt for fuel only? Megasquirt spark and extra will control timing and it is also wideband compatable too.