im pretty new to nitrous so......yeahthinkin about running a 65hp shot, jus wondering what will be neccesary.
what i have read/learned(not sure if everything is fact or just hearsay) and some questions
1)i know i need to retard timing but not sure how much. also read that the MSD ignition i am planning on getting can control the timing depending on whether im using the nitrous or not but, i'm not sure how to set that up.
2)need colder plugs but not sure how much colder. any suggestions?
3) can i run water injection and nitrous at the same time? if not, can i set it up so that i am only running one at a time at certain times?
4)where should i inject it?
5)do i need internal modifications? if so, what? and are they neccesary or just precautions to stay on the safe side?
6)and anything i may have missed.
thanx, and feel free to flame as long as u have some good info too.
KAE nitrous questions
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blacks13ek
- Posts: 144
- Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2004 7:35 pm
I have a 90 and NOS, so I will answer these questions to the best of my knowledge at the risk of being "corrected" by many:
1. At 65 hp, that would be around .036" jetting for a dry system (if I am reading my NOS manual correctly) you should not have to retard timing provided that you run 92+ octane anytime you are using nitrous.
2. No need for colder plug according to NOS.
3. I don't know about water injection's compatibility.
4. Mount as close to the throttle body as you can on the intake tube to insure that the nitrous stays dense as it enters the manifold instead of dispersing or even running backwards while it trys to expand.
5. NOS claims that no internal modifications are needed for nitrous that is 50% or less of the stock HP of the engine, which is 150 or so, and that means you can safely boost up to 75 HP on nitous with stock internals.
6. I installed a 255 Walbro fuel pump just to be safe, and though it will operate without the fuel pressure safety switch, I say use it. I am using the MSD RPM window switch for more consistency as opposed to the old "no WOT until atleast 2500 rpm" routine or the handheld button. Both of which seem unsafe to me.
I hope it helps and if I am dead wrong on something, I am sure it will be caught by someone rather quickly.
1. At 65 hp, that would be around .036" jetting for a dry system (if I am reading my NOS manual correctly) you should not have to retard timing provided that you run 92+ octane anytime you are using nitrous.
2. No need for colder plug according to NOS.
3. I don't know about water injection's compatibility.
4. Mount as close to the throttle body as you can on the intake tube to insure that the nitrous stays dense as it enters the manifold instead of dispersing or even running backwards while it trys to expand.
5. NOS claims that no internal modifications are needed for nitrous that is 50% or less of the stock HP of the engine, which is 150 or so, and that means you can safely boost up to 75 HP on nitous with stock internals.
6. I installed a 255 Walbro fuel pump just to be safe, and though it will operate without the fuel pressure safety switch, I say use it. I am using the MSD RPM window switch for more consistency as opposed to the old "no WOT until atleast 2500 rpm" routine or the handheld button. Both of which seem unsafe to me.
I hope it helps and if I am dead wrong on something, I am sure it will be caught by someone rather quickly.
niznos wrote:4. Mount as close to the throttle body as you can on the intake tube to insure that the nitrous stays dense as it enters the manifold instead of dispersing or even running backwards while it trys to expand.
I hope it helps and if I am dead wrong on something, I am sure it will be caught by someone rather quickly.
You actually want to mount as far away from the throttle body as possible. You want the nitrous charge to disperse- that way you have the most even distribution of nitrous in your intake system. If you spray too close to the throttle body and fail to distribute the nitrous evenly, you all of a sudden have cylinders that are pushing drastically different amounts of power- and that's a great recipe for engine failure. Spraying farther away from the throttle body won't cause the nitrous to run in reverse. Your engine is sucking in quite a bit of air at full throttle- it's going to pull the nitrous in as well.
If spraying far away from the throttle body is bad, why would ZEX make an air filter with the nitrous nozzle in the top?
If you're running a wet shot, things are slightly different. You want to be as far away from the throttle body as possible so you can get a good mix of air/fuel/nitrous, but you don't want to be so far away that you take the chance of igniting an air/fuel mixture inside the intake system. It's a little more tricky. You want to get just close enough to have good nitrous/fuel dispersion without dropping gas all over your intake tubing.
I think that the Zex fiter/ nozzle combo is more of a convience item than a upgrade/ prefered position. The reason being my NOS manual actually says to locate on the throttle body and the tube being second choice.
I actually have my nozzle near the filter for the lack of space on the pass. side of the car, while a friend of mine has a Tacoma with the same kit with nozzle close to the TB. When we are jetted the same, he boosts a lot harder.
I actually have my nozzle near the filter for the lack of space on the pass. side of the car, while a friend of mine has a Tacoma with the same kit with nozzle close to the TB. When we are jetted the same, he boosts a lot harder.