Kaaz 2 way Install
Kaaz 2 way Install
Well I decided to post a write up of my install of the Kaaz 2 way LSD (PT # SAN2655).
TOOLS NEEDED-Torque Wrench-Electric/Air Impact Gun/Wrench-Flat head screw driver-Needle nose pliers-Dead blow hammer-Regular hammer-common size sockets and wrenches of various sizes-medium sized tap or large screw driver (my large pry bar did the trick)
MATERIALS NEEDED-2 cans of KAAZ gear oil-Thread locker-Permatex Prussian Blue-Drain pan-Good funnel-Lots of brake clean-Permatex Ultra Grey RTV or equivilent-1 or more friends to help
REMOVAL OF OLD AND USELESS OPEN DIFFERENTIALStep 1
Prepare work area and make sure its very clean. I recomend using a large table with a large sheet of heavy duty plastic to cover it.
Drain differential fluid. A half inch breaker bar should get the plug off with no problem.
Once drained, Place the transmission in gear and make sure e-brake is engaged.Unbolt driveshaft from differential. 4 bolts 12 or 14mm
It's a whole lot easier to take the sway bar off since it just gets in the way.4 bolts 2x12mm and 2x14mm
Unbolt the axles from differential. 6 bolts on each axle 12mm or 14mm.
Support Differential with A large heavy duty jack. It would probably be a lot better if I used a transmission jack adapter. (Found on ebay for cheap)
There are 2 17mm bolts holding the differential to the underside of the car. Loosen those two bolts, do not fully remove.
Remove 4 17mm bolts from back of differential.
Before lowering the differential try to move the axles out of the way.
Now when you're ready take off the two 17mm bolts you had loosened and carefully lower the differential.
STEP 2REMOVING THE OLD GUTS
Remove all bolts from the differential cover in a criss cross pattern.14mm bolts
Once the cover is off the open differential guts are revealed.
Carefully bang off the axle shafts making sure not to hit the ring gear and mark each one with the side it came off of. What I did instead of marking them was to place the left side on the left side of the table and the right side on the right side of the table. Wraped them in plastic bags so they wouldnt get any dirt on them.
Now you can remove the bearing cap bolts and bearing caps from both sides.Be sure to place the cap and bolts seperate from each other so that you make sure you know which side they came from.
Now you can remove the stubborn axle shaft seals with either a screwdriver or pliers, whichever works.
Now you can grab a tap and hammer and knock that old differential out of there. Slowly tap each side until it comes out evently.
Be VERY CAREFUL and make sure that when the diff pops out that you keep the discs in their proper order and on the proper side.I kept the left set off to the far left of the table and the right set off to the far right.
Clean out the inside of the differential case with lots of brake cleaner.
Now get your impact wrench and go at it on those ring gear bolts. The dewalt impact gun i borrowed seem to have a hell of a hard time getting those bolts on there. They must have some super strong lock tight from the factory.
Remove all bolts from the differential cover in a criss cross pattern.14mm bolts
Once the cover is off the open differential guts are revealed.
Carefully bang off the axle shafts making sure not to hit the ring gear and mark each one with the side it came off of. What I did instead of marking them was to place the left side on the left side of the table and the right side on the right side of the table. Wraped them in plastic bags so they wouldnt get any dirt on them.
Now you can remove the bearing cap bolts and bearing caps from both sides.Be sure to place the cap and bolts seperate from each other so that you make sure you know which side they came from.
Now you can remove the stubborn axle shaft seals with either a screwdriver or pliers, whichever works.
Now you can grab a tap and hammer and knock that old differential out of there. Slowly tap each side until it comes out evently.
Be VERY CAREFUL and make sure that when the diff pops out that you keep the discs in their proper order and on the proper side.I kept the left set off to the far left of the table and the right set off to the far right.
Clean out the inside of the differential case with lots of brake cleaner.
Now get your impact wrench and go at it on those ring gear bolts. The dewalt impact gun i borrowed seem to have a hell of a hard time getting those bolts on there. They must have some super strong lock tight from the factory.
Take the old ring gear off and place on new kaaz unit and be sure to use locktight on the bolts.It's ideal to place the differential in a vice to torque the ring bolts down. Be sure to place a padding around the teeth of the vice and do not tighten vice so much that it ruins the differential.Also make sure to tighten bolts in a criss cross patern to 98-112ft lbs tq.I did not have a vice available , so I did what i could with an electric impact.
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU LUBE UP ALL OF THE SHIMS AND BEARING RACES. AND MAKE SURE NO DIRT IS ON ANY OF THE PARTS.
Now carefully place the new kaaz unit in the casing with provided bearing races and old shims(make sure to place shims on proper sides).
Once the diff is seated in properly torque down bearing caps to 65-72ft lbs tq. If you dont have a vice available, you might need to temporarily place the axle shafts in to get proper leverage.
Now you can install the output seals provided with the differential with a soft hammer. It is recommended that you place a flat object between hammer and seal so that the seal wont go in too much.
Install the axle shafts with a dead blow hammer.
RUN A PATTERNTake the Permatex Prussian blue and place a small drop on the face of one of the teeth of the gear. Now rotate the shafts a couple of times so that the ring and pinion gear can smash the die and show you exactly where the teeth are messing at. The white spot is exactly where you want the teeth to mesh. The red part is definitly not where you want it. The yellow part is also where you dont want it(but i hear the yellow part is far better than having it on the red.
If the pattern is off, you would need to buy adjusting shims of certain sizes to move the differential either left or right. I think kaaz has it right on the money though, because in my install it was right on the white spot.
Be sure to also clean differential cover and place new gasket provided with kaaz unit and apply rtv as recommended.
Tighten cover bolts in a criss cross pattern to 12-17ft lbs tq.
I let the rtv dry for a couple of days since I wasnt in a hurry for installation (mainly i didnt have too much time to work on it). So no leaks showed up.
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU LUBE UP ALL OF THE SHIMS AND BEARING RACES. AND MAKE SURE NO DIRT IS ON ANY OF THE PARTS.
Now carefully place the new kaaz unit in the casing with provided bearing races and old shims(make sure to place shims on proper sides).
Once the diff is seated in properly torque down bearing caps to 65-72ft lbs tq. If you dont have a vice available, you might need to temporarily place the axle shafts in to get proper leverage.
Now you can install the output seals provided with the differential with a soft hammer. It is recommended that you place a flat object between hammer and seal so that the seal wont go in too much.
Install the axle shafts with a dead blow hammer.
RUN A PATTERNTake the Permatex Prussian blue and place a small drop on the face of one of the teeth of the gear. Now rotate the shafts a couple of times so that the ring and pinion gear can smash the die and show you exactly where the teeth are messing at. The white spot is exactly where you want the teeth to mesh. The red part is definitly not where you want it. The yellow part is also where you dont want it(but i hear the yellow part is far better than having it on the red.
If the pattern is off, you would need to buy adjusting shims of certain sizes to move the differential either left or right. I think kaaz has it right on the money though, because in my install it was right on the white spot.
Be sure to also clean differential cover and place new gasket provided with kaaz unit and apply rtv as recommended.
Tighten cover bolts in a criss cross pattern to 12-17ft lbs tq.
I let the rtv dry for a couple of days since I wasnt in a hurry for installation (mainly i didnt have too much time to work on it). So no leaks showed up.
Place differential back on jack and raise it back up in its original palce. You may need a couple of friends to guide the axles up with it sinces the axles spring out. Bolt the differential back on. Put sway bar back on if you took it off. Then bolt on the driveshaft. Make sure not to leave any bolts loose. Make sure car is level and fill with fluid til it starts to pour out. Tighten fill plug and drain plug from 43-72ft lbs tq.
BREAK IN PROCEDURE
Now that it's installed go to the nearest parking lot and drive in a figure eight pattern. In the straight part of the 8, slowly accellerate to 20km/hr. Once you reach the end of the straight go into neutral with clutch released. Make the smallest turns with the maximum steering angle. Once you get back to the straight , slowly accellerate again to 20km/hr and keep repeating for a period of 30 minutes.
Once that is done, go back to your house and change the fluid again.
This is the exact break in procedure that kaaz recommends in the manual.
After it's installed I don't recommend "testing" it out in public parking lots. (Dont ask)
If there are any mistakes or suggestions or comments please e-mail me at [email protected].
BE SAFE
I just want to thank Drift Factory for providing a good price on the differential and free bottle of kaaz fluid and free shipping!All this was purcahsed for 895 shipped. But with the extra bottle of oil you will need to purchase it came out to somewhere around $945. Still a great deal and I got a free Drift Factory sweatshirt out of it.
BE SAFE-eliterit
BREAK IN PROCEDURE
Now that it's installed go to the nearest parking lot and drive in a figure eight pattern. In the straight part of the 8, slowly accellerate to 20km/hr. Once you reach the end of the straight go into neutral with clutch released. Make the smallest turns with the maximum steering angle. Once you get back to the straight , slowly accellerate again to 20km/hr and keep repeating for a period of 30 minutes.
Once that is done, go back to your house and change the fluid again.
This is the exact break in procedure that kaaz recommends in the manual.
After it's installed I don't recommend "testing" it out in public parking lots. (Dont ask)
If there are any mistakes or suggestions or comments please e-mail me at [email protected].
BE SAFE
I just want to thank Drift Factory for providing a good price on the differential and free bottle of kaaz fluid and free shipping!All this was purcahsed for 895 shipped. But with the extra bottle of oil you will need to purchase it came out to somewhere around $945. Still a great deal and I got a free Drift Factory sweatshirt out of it.
BE SAFE-eliterit
Re: Kaaz 2 way Install (eliterit) <<< sticky request
This should be a sticky
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You didn't check your preload of the differential. you didn't calculate your backlash.
You also didn't check the proper side of the ring gear tooth. The correct side is what I consider to be the backside. In forward engagement, the pinion will use the backside of the ring gear's teeth.
The best way to check the ring gear is to inspect every tooth. Place the prussian blue on a few of the teeth and then with an electric drill that has a 1 1/16th socket attached to it, spin the differential by the companion bolt flange for about 30 seconds to get a good tooth reading.
The best contact patch to have is one that looks like a comet. The fat part will be on the inside of the tooth and it will slender and feather off as the contact patch reaches the outside of the tooth. The comet should be centered in the tooth.
If preload and backlash are set properly and the contact patch is uncentered, you get the fun job of changing the pinion gear height.
Also, a seal puller is best used for pulling the side oil seals. Ampro makes a decent one that you can get for cheap at most auto parts stores. I prefer to use a socket as a drift to press the oil seals back in.
If you don't have a torque scale for checking preload, you can try this method. It works pretty well, and was suggested to me by the man who was tutoring me on how to rebuild a rear end:Install the diff without the ring gear. If you have the preload set properly, it will offer resistance to spinning. When I had mine set right, I could spin the differential about 1/4->1/2 around with a good tug. I installed the VLSD with my old open diff shims and the preload was way too loose. I was able to get 1 -> 1 1/2 turns with the same force. That was with my old 100,000+mile preload shims and a 19,000km VLSD.
I highly recommend getting a copy of the service manual before embarking on a differential rebuild
When you install the differential improperly, it will whine and clunk.
Also, I used generic 90 weight gear oil to clean the differential after the rebuild. I ran it in there for a few hundred miles before draining it and replacing it with redline shockproof.
When pulling the diff and reinstalling the diff, place the axles above the differential to make it easier to get it in and out. if they hang down, you'll have a tough time maneuvering the differential around them.
One last thing to note. The man who was tutoring me in my rebuild has had 30-40 years of nissan and import experience. He's rebuilt more rear ends than I'd care to think about (and he thankfully had a bucket of preload shims for me to scavange for a reasonable price). All that information I just relayed came straight from his mouth.
You also didn't check the proper side of the ring gear tooth. The correct side is what I consider to be the backside. In forward engagement, the pinion will use the backside of the ring gear's teeth.
The best way to check the ring gear is to inspect every tooth. Place the prussian blue on a few of the teeth and then with an electric drill that has a 1 1/16th socket attached to it, spin the differential by the companion bolt flange for about 30 seconds to get a good tooth reading.
The best contact patch to have is one that looks like a comet. The fat part will be on the inside of the tooth and it will slender and feather off as the contact patch reaches the outside of the tooth. The comet should be centered in the tooth.
If preload and backlash are set properly and the contact patch is uncentered, you get the fun job of changing the pinion gear height.
Also, a seal puller is best used for pulling the side oil seals. Ampro makes a decent one that you can get for cheap at most auto parts stores. I prefer to use a socket as a drift to press the oil seals back in.
If you don't have a torque scale for checking preload, you can try this method. It works pretty well, and was suggested to me by the man who was tutoring me on how to rebuild a rear end:Install the diff without the ring gear. If you have the preload set properly, it will offer resistance to spinning. When I had mine set right, I could spin the differential about 1/4->1/2 around with a good tug. I installed the VLSD with my old open diff shims and the preload was way too loose. I was able to get 1 -> 1 1/2 turns with the same force. That was with my old 100,000+mile preload shims and a 19,000km VLSD.
I highly recommend getting a copy of the service manual before embarking on a differential rebuild
When you install the differential improperly, it will whine and clunk.
Also, I used generic 90 weight gear oil to clean the differential after the rebuild. I ran it in there for a few hundred miles before draining it and replacing it with redline shockproof.
When pulling the diff and reinstalling the diff, place the axles above the differential to make it easier to get it in and out. if they hang down, you'll have a tough time maneuvering the differential around them.
One last thing to note. The man who was tutoring me in my rebuild has had 30-40 years of nissan and import experience. He's rebuilt more rear ends than I'd care to think about (and he thankfully had a bucket of preload shims for me to scavange for a reasonable price). All that information I just relayed came straight from his mouth.
Re: (tenkawa_akito)
thanks for the informative tips. I have been running this diff for over 10,000 miles already and i haven't heard any whinning so far and the function of this diff is amazing.
This write up isn't a factory service manual, but a general guide on what is basically involved in replacing the diff. I wish i knew how to do the other steps you mentioned so i could include that in my write up post, but oh well.
I'm glad you did post that info to inform other forum members. thanks.
This write up isn't a factory service manual, but a general guide on what is basically involved in replacing the diff. I wish i knew how to do the other steps you mentioned so i could include that in my write up post, but oh well.
I'm glad you did post that info to inform other forum members. thanks.
this should definitely be a sticky and be moved to the installs section. its amazing to actually have a write up for it cuz i know i see random diff internals on ebay and i wouldnt know where to begin on the install. but this thread definitely cleared up the gray area.
Im sure once the mod's read the thread, it will become cement
Im sure once the mod's read the thread, it will become cement