KA26DET vs. SR22DET

[tctomasc]

Now before I start I want to explain that I searched a good amount and read a lot, but no real clear answers, or answers specific to my situation came about.

So I recently purchased a s14. it has a ka24det that has about 180k miles on it. Given this I know i would need to rebuild if i wanted to use it for an FI build, and i figure why not bore/stroke it at the same time, since my machining costs would be minimal. I would most likely have to do the same thing with an SR and why not bore/stroke it as well.So my question is, with about a 7k budget, and a goal of about 400whp 350tq, would i be better off going KA or SR. I am looking for streetability, low end over high, and reliability. If i did either i would be doing top mount T25 yaddadadada.

Weight is also an issue, but im thinking the weight would be similar? Also what are the differences in materials and ability to handle boost. Is the ignition system better in the SR?

[neverlift]

search function for the win!1111111 ok if you dont have a turbo on the ka already then it is a ka24de not a det...

the sr weighs a **** ton less than a ka.

please do not stroke you over stroked ka the bc stroker kit has no dyno's cause its pointless to stroke an over stroked motor. Bore would be good IF the walls didnt go thin after .040...

[Cakesfab]

Do more research on your own because it's very apparent that you are clueless.

[DevilMB3017]

Do more research on your own because it's very apparent that you are clueless.

Easy buddy.

To the OP tctomasc: You definitely need do need to search more though. The first thing I noted in your post was that you said you have a KA24DET in your S14 already...but stated you wanted to build your motor to go turbo. So you only have a KA24DE or is it already turbo'd? Secondly, going with 400whp on a top-mount T25 is kind of silly. You'd make that number much easier with a T3/T4 hybrid turbo that most KA-T members use. A T2 flange may become a limiting factor for you.

Neverlift: Just because the KA already does have a long stroke doesn't mean the BC stroker kit wouldn't help. I discussed this over the summer at some bit of length with Brian Crower Jr. himself, and asked him about that very thing. The major advantages of the stroker kit are the FCW crank and the reduced spool time on bigger (T4+) turbochargers for high HP applications. It has no dyno numbers on Nico because none of us are really shooting for 500+ rwhp. He said he's sold a couple batches of it, which I assume is a minimum of 5 a batch.

[tctomasc]

ya it was a typo on my part to write det. i meant DE. It does not already have a turbo... thanks for the civil responses instead of calling me clueless... if im not mistaken a .020 mm over bore on each cylinder yields about an extra. 1-.15 litres, so unless im completely mistaken the walls are not that close to being .040 over.

the top mount T25 was also a mistake. I meant T3, which would be part of the peak boost setup. It was a long sleepless night.

[480sx]

A 7k budget isnt going to build you a good stroker motor setup anyway. The BC kit is close to 3k alone. The only thing thats nice about that kit is the FCW crank, but they will make that for you at normal stroke. Thats the way to go IMO if you want a top end rev happy Ka.

[neverlift]

its a waste at 3k for basically just the crank, I never said it wasnt a good crank or could not be usefull, I said the stroking of an over stroked motor is dumb.... when did they start making an affordable fcw crank? link me NOWSKY!

I am in the works to get a stock crank balanced to 8k, maybe less I just dont like my n/a powerband falling off at 5.5 due to harmonics tearing it apart. Not so noticed with the turbo but w/ever.

I'd love to be able to rev my ka to factory redline wihtout getting scared, I hit it alot as is, having a motor that is balanced well internally is never a bad thing IMHO but again ka is stroked out already

[DevilMB3017]

What makes you say the KA is 'stroked out'?

It's stroked further then an SR20 for example, but that doesn't mean it's stroked out...

I'm not trying to start a pissing contest or anything like that...this is a legit question, I'm not trying to start a battle...

How much more power do you really anticipate to make above lets say 7200 RPM? Even if I shift at lets say 6800 RPM, I only fall to about 4800 RPM if I shift slower to ensure a smooth shift. I'm still at least about 80% of my tq/hp curve.

This is why I don't have a FCW crank.

Brian Crower offered me a stock stroke FCW crank for $900 shipped because he liked me, so he said, lol. I couldn't even justify that cost based on the limited extra power I may see.

In my opinion boring and stroking out to 2.6L is more worthwhile then revving high...You'll see a nice reduction in spool time with oversized valves to go with it so you can maintain more power at lower RPM...Now of course this doesn't apply to N/A vehicles. But if your N/A I can't see why an extra .2L would possibly be a bad thing as long as you have intake, fuel, and exhaust mods to support it, along with a head.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

What makes you say the KA is 'stroked out'?

Its "oversquare"? I think that is the term. The stroke is larger than the bore.

In my opinion, you'd be better off spending that 7k on a nice piston/rod combo, and full turbo setup and some methanol injection to get to your *safe* 400whp goal.

[xckid]

if i had about 10 k lying around i would do the stroker kit ive contemplated it before. A na ka big stroke has got a good amount of low end imagine a 2.6 just my opinion

[480sx]

The FCW crank would be a great mod for a Ka, its just damned expensive. Revs offer the ability to spool larger turbos(and keep them spooled longer), and are a power multiplier. The Ka's head is already pretty rev friendly, very simple design.

It already does have a really long stroke though. Increasing it is putting even more stress on the weakest point of a Ka, the rods.

A FCW crank fully built Ka has put down 300 hp on race gas with a 10000 rpm rev limit. Add boost and say.. a little safer 9000 rev limit, and you have yourself a monster of a car.

[WDRacing]

2 things...I'm only going to speak in terms of things I know as fact.

Fact 1, the KA crank, when balanced with the rest of the rotating assembly, has been taken to 8k lots of times during drag racing high boost conditions.

Fact 2, there is NO need to add stroke...none. I can and will make more power, for a longer period of time, safely, by adding boost instead of stroke. Corky Bell himself says this exact thing in his book, Maximum Boost. Unless your goals are over 800whp, boost and forged rods/pistons are all you need. I'm not saying the BC Crank is bad, it's just pointless. I consider it a total waste of money...total.

Which motor would I take if I had the choice, SR22 or KA24? Sorry to say I'd take the SR22 any day of the week and twice on Sunday

WD

[neverlift]

What makes you say the KA is 'stroked out'?

It's stroked further then an SR20 for example, but that doesn't mean it's stroked out...

I'm not trying to start a pissing contest or anything like that...this is a legit question, I'm not trying to start a battle...

How much more power do you really anticipate to make above lets say 7200 RPM? Even if I shift at lets say 6800 RPM, I only fall to about 4800 RPM if I shift slower to ensure a smooth shift. I'm still at least about 80% of my tq/hp curve.

This is why I don't have a FCW crank.

Brian Crower offered me a stock stroke FCW crank for $900 shipped because he liked me, so he said, lol. I couldn't even justify that cost based on the limited extra power I may see.

In my opinion boring and stroking out to 2.6L is more worthwhile then revving high...You'll see a nice reduction in spool time with oversized valves to go with it so you can maintain more power at lower RPM...Now of course this doesn't apply to N/A vehicles. But if your N/A I can't see why an extra .2L would possibly be a bad thing as long as you have intake, fuel, and exhaust mods to support it, along with a head.

well they kinda covered it, TO ME the point wold be to sustain power or even keep making hp over 5.5k rpm, a stock ka dyno screems it IMHO, after 5.5k the harmonics of the hcw crank are insane, playing a decent sized roll in the ka dropping off so harsh after that rpm, now a turbo ka doesnt notice as much, but imagine if your ka without turbo could make if the powerband didnt fail after 5.5k probably close to 200 whp with basic mods. I dont need 10k rpm, just actuall power after 6grand.

Again the the stroke is already too much, ask the ladies

Maybe I'm just being anal, but still do not like the idea of a half *** balanced crank

we can just agree to disagree, I would take a stock displacement ka that pulled to redline any time. I need to get with my friend and see when we can get it going, I have 30psi on number one and lots of oil?????

[king_cole06]

imo the stroker kit is a waste, you might as well buy an rb for the price you would pay to have the ka pushing the power you want