KA24ET stalling problem

[skatermatt180]

Hey all, I seem to have some problems I can't locate with the search button. Here's the problems:

1. When I accelerate, the car seems to have a hard time switching back from acceleration and leveling off the throttle. It seems to hesitate when I get up to speed and kind of jerk the car back and forth, like I'm letting go of the gas and hitting it over and over, and then it will clear itself up and drive normal after about 3 of 4 seconds. Like the gas is getting cut off or something.

2. Also, when I accelerate, if I were to stop right after acceleration (esp in boost), the car will die after flooding itself out, unless I slowly downshift and let the engine "catch" up to itself.

3. Lastly, when the engine does "catch" up to itself, it revs up to 2 grand and slowly goes back down to idle after a period of about 10 to 15 seconds after I stop the car.

If anyone could point me in a direction to get these problems fixed, I could possibly have a great running ka24et. The car is quick as hell and pulls real hard, just has some drivability problems. Ive checked the tps, mafs, aac/iacv, cts, and wiring. I have the moates ostrich 2.0 for tuning and it seems to work great. I changed the tps (adjusted it correctly), adjusted the timing to 15 degrees, changed the mafs, and changed out the aac/iacv, and checked the resistance on the cts - that all checked out. Im out of ideas. All emissions have been removed as well.

The funny part about it is, the check engine light comes on for a while, but when I go to check codes, the red light on the ecu works only and the green light doesn't. I dont know if that means bad ecu or if it has something to do with the moates emulator.

Sorry for the long post, I really need to figure this out.

[skatermatt180]

bumpttt

[CRyan]

Hey all, I seem to have some problems I can't locate with the search button. Here's the problems:

1. When I accelerate, the car seems to have a hard time switching back from acceleration and leveling off the throttle. It seems to hesitate when I get up to speed and kind of jerk the car back and forth, like I'm letting go of the gas and hitting it over and over, and then it will clear itself up and drive normal after about 3 of 4 seconds. Like the gas is getting cut off or something.

2. Also, when I accelerate, if I were to stop right after acceleration (esp in boost), the car will die after flooding itself out, unless I slowly downshift and let the engine "catch" up to itself.

3. Lastly, when the engine does "catch" up to itself, it revs up to 2 grand and slowly goes back down to idle after a period of about 10 to 15 seconds after I stop the car.

If anyone could point me in a direction to get these problems fixed, I could possibly have a great running ka24et. The car is quick as hell and pulls real hard, just has some drivability problems. Ive checked the tps, mafs, aac/iacv, cts, and wiring. I have the moates ostrich 2.0 for tuning and it seems to work great. I changed the tps (adjusted it correctly), adjusted the timing to 15 degrees, changed the mafs, and changed out the aac/iacv, and checked the resistance on the cts - that all checked out. Im out of ideas. All emissions have been removed as well.

The funny part about it is, the check engine light comes on for a while, but when I go to check codes, the red light on the ecu works only and the green light doesn't. I dont know if that means bad ecu or if it has something to do with the moates emulator.

Sorry for the long post, I really need to figure this out.

If I'm not mistaken - with the accelerating and slowing down part that is - we have had the same issue with the 87 Supra of my friends. But we have learned to keep rpm high as you slow down is the best way for a vehicle that has been N/A and or is running more boost than factory (went from 7 to 10 psi)

As for the shutter problem, I propose something within fuel and or battery. Doesn't sound like battery though - I accelerated and it shuttered, because of a poor ground connection and probably bad alternator.

Your case I would say something with fuel. Sorry I can't really pin point it but I'd start there.

As for the revving to 2g I have no earthly idea - my N/A KA was doing it but then stopped. Maybe some throttle sticking. Thats only a guess.

Wish I could help out more man - good luck

[skatermatt180]

so maybe it has something to do with the tune then?

[CRyan]

so maybe it has something to do with the tune then?

Very possible!!

[JDM_180SX_TX]

It sounds like it is a fuel problem. If I am not mistaken thats why you are having that sputtering happen. Get some slightly larger injectors. Off topic what is your Engine Managment like?

[skatermatt180]

well, i have 450cc dsm injectors with the resistor box, so thats not it. I have the moates ostrich eeprom emulator, I took out the stock eeprom ship and replaced it with a chip that has a ribbon cable off of it. The cable plugs into a box that I can plug into my computer and tune with. It works great, but maybe my tune is bad. Anyone have a good tune for this car to get things started. I though I had a good one, but i rev past 3k and it dies when it tries to go back to idle????

[CRyan]

IMO, sounds like engine might be flooding.

What PSI would you happen to be running? And you say DSM, as in from an eclipse/talon sort of thing? Just verifying.

Did you have the injectors flow tested? I'm only mouthing off things I've picked up with symptoms of dying like that - so don't completely rely on that - I'm just trying to see if I can help pinpoint the problem through cause/effect and a process of elimination.

[240sxmech]

Get a super afc. It will fix your problems and get rid of the chip you have in there get an ecu that is stock. Then take it to a dyno shop that knows what they are doing and have them tune it . When you turbo the ka motor it will stall on decel due to maf readings and how you have your blowoff valve, atmosphere or recirculated. The safc will take care of these problems. Have you upgraded your fuel pump yet ,if not then do it now, and do you have a wideband ,if not do it now. If your going to turbo your car you should know what your doing not just slapping bigger injectors on it and putting the turbo on.

[240sxmech]

Also the reving to 2 grand and then slowly coming down is your iac motor doing its job because of the stalling problem. You also need to take some of your timing out 15 degrees is right on the money for n/a but not after you turbo it, especially if you want your motor to stay together.

[skatermatt180]

Get a super afc. It will fix your problems and get rid of the chip you have in there get an ecu that is stock. Then take it to a dyno shop that knows what they are doing and have them tune it . When you turbo the ka motor it will stall on decel due to maf readings and how you have your blowoff valve, atmosphere or recirculated. The safc will take care of these problems. Have you upgraded your fuel pump yet ,if not then do it now, and do you have a wideband ,if not do it now. If your going to turbo your car you should know what your doing not just slapping bigger injectors on it and putting the turbo on.

A super-afc???? Why would I get that? The emulator is a eeprom level tuner. A super-afc is a system that tricks the ecu into tuning. There are only so many points to adjust the air fuel ratio with a super afc. I can fine tune my car better with the moates. Yes I have a wideband, and yes I know what I'm doing. As far as the other post you made, 20 degrees is the stock spec for a ka24e. I backed it 5 degrees according to ka-t.org. Are you sure on your info?

[skatermatt180]

IMO, sounds like engine might be flooding.

What PSI would you happen to be running? And you say DSM, as in from an eclipse/talon sort of thing? Just verifying.

Did you have the injectors flow tested? I'm only mouthing off things I've picked up with symptoms of dying like that - so don't completely rely on that - I'm just trying to see if I can help pinpoint the problem through cause/effect and a process of elimination.

Im running 7 psi, but I dont have to boost it for it to die. The injectors have been flow tested and they are 450cc. Yes they are from a talon tsi. They say 450 on the side. Thanks for the help, keep it coming!