Hello all those who read this post,

Break Down:

Car ran but like crap had issues starting so i decided to re-work my engine harness as well as other things, new 10ohms resistors installed(no clue on what injectors i have as far as i know they are orange top feed), found out that #1 and #2 injector clip were flipped fixed that in the re-work of the harness. Hooked everything back up double checked to make sure everything is wired correctly and hooked up correctly.

The current setup entails recently rebuilt motor(roughly 5k ago told by previous owner) Motor: ka24e-t(turbo is a ct-26 out of a toyota land cruiser) along with a laundry list of backyard mods.

Issues:

As stated the car wont start, I checked the plugs they are saturated with fuel, the plugs spark and to the best of my knowledge are in the correct order. I believe the egr is removed so i didnt check it. It has a piggyback SAFC-II i will be testing the settings tonight. I didnt change any major motor functions in timing or so i think. Later on this week i will run a compression test. After i get the resuslts from the compression test itll tell me more on wether or not the oil in the coolant i was seeing was from the previous turbos blown seals or not.

Anymore info i can provide i will do so.
Any answers or ideas on remedies to my issues are appreciate.

Thnx

I'd love to help but it sounds like you could have a huge range of possible problems. Not knowing what size injectors are being used is a problem. Is there a ROM tune at all or is the SAFC the only device tuning the fuel trim?

Update:

After picking my brain and my friends brain we finally figured out it was the way I had ignition wires on the distributer. the order was correct but the starting point wasnt.

Now to answer your question wd. As far as I know safc is only tune on it so far. I will take it to get atleast dyno tuned before I decide to put her back on the road. Onto the injectors, I asked the previous owner he told me they were 550cc then told me later they werent. Other then flow testing or the random luck of finding them on the web. 195500-1350 is the number on the side of one and they have orangeish top the main body is rusted and I had to wire a 10 ohms resistor in the harness. The closest thing I seen to them new would be the stock bosch replacments. I will be searching more on these today.

Thnx

If I were you I'd replace them with known good injectors. 550cc injectors are maxing out the tunability of the SAFC. Injectors of that size are more suited to a rom tune. If the SAFC is going to be the only tuning device, I'd step down to some 370's. Which would be good for 8 psi of boost.

Actually, and this is just my point of view, a better option then the SAFC would be factory injectors and a 8:1 FMU. Then once you're ready to crank up the boost and have all of your kinks worked out you can get a decent injector/maf/rom tune combo. The SAFC is really only good for fine tuning.

After further research online with the part# 195500-1350 i keep comming back to 86-88 rx-7 fuel injectors.



The best part about this car is discovering all the diffrent parts that are compatable. So far this motor is almost turning into a frankenstein build. Ka24E motor, toyota turbo(ct26), rx7 injectors, ic pipe was fashioned together with exhaust pipe and sewage pvc pipe. And this is all tuned with a safc-2.

Oh an before i forget does anyone else have problems with the cruise control cable popping loose when 100% throttle is applied?

Thnx again
Hope this info helps clear some things up for you it has for me.
PGH Reaper

After some quick google-fu I found your injectors, I think. They appear to be from a 86-87 RX-7 and they are 460cc peak hold/low imp.

DOH, beat me to it!!!

Heh yeah. ive been searching using my phone, and finally now go to a computer to look up at post. Ive been looking into wiring the rad fan and some other minor things for the engine bay side of this. a simple thumb over the spark plug hole show's the motor will build and hold the compression.

Once i get the interior portion straightend out ill be ready to get a legit tune on it. i didnt like the way the wires were ran before inside and out to the rad fan, fog lights, and a few other accesories. I read a few write ups on how to wire in your elec fan by jumping a hot off the fuel pump fuse. im not a big fan of taping off other fuses.

once i button a few things up ill post a pic of the bay. Also while this is on my mind, it appears if i have two maf's sensors. One for sure is the mafs the other i have no clue. but i know it has to be in the charge pipe or the car will stall when going into and out of a gear.

Thnx again for any information provided.

PGH Reaper

Engine Bay Rough Draft:

Pretty sure our motors don't have a second maf. Maybe you're looking at the air intake temperature sensor? Post a picture of it.

I see a MAFS and I see a BOV. The MAFS is before the turbo in your setup. Which is fine as long as the BOV isn't vented to the atmosphere.

Ill bet its the temp sensor

Thank you for that info wdracing that explains alot. Now to rework ic pipe....

Ill post a pic hopefully later today, im not gonna re-circ my BOV do I gotta find a good spot to place the mafs.



Trying to post from my phone or tab is a pain.

Just wanted to thank you all for the help.

When i put it here it quit stalling inbetween 1st and reverse

Yup, that's the IATs, intake air temp sensor.

* Update *

It's been a while since the last post and the car will start now. I did more research into the previously mention error in my mafs location. With some tuning on the SAFC II I can compensate for the metered air being sent within the first few setting points in the decel air feature.

Had a few snafu's in the past few weeks. Still not 100% certain on this coolant system, i hope its not the head or head gasket but i still lots of pressure in the system. Last time i messed with it when i was filling the system i would see about 1ft geysers out of the fill neck.

Until next time NICO, stay classy

PGHReaper