Alright,so I've got a single-slamma in my 240,and I plan on turboing it once I get the cash.I was reading around and found a few companies that offer solid lifter conversion kits,since I guess at higher boost, they're more reliable than the stock hydraulic lifters.Obviously, I'd be lowering the compression too ( new pistons) and adding new rods.

Does anyone have experience with the solid lifter kits+turbo?I wanna know how much of a difference there is, if any.Also, I'm having kind of an idle problem, where when I'm in drive, after the engine's warmed up, the idle dips kind of low, like it'll bog down/stall.Anyone know what this might be?I'll take a video later on or tomorrow.

Thanks!

You'd have to look at how the solid lifters perform with the NA guys. Whether they are solid or not, won't affect anything as far as boost goes.

No need to lower your compression either. The SOHC already has lower compression the the DOHC, which doesn't require lower compression either.

Install the turbo and roll

Idle issues can be caused by tons of things, but definitely get it fixed before you go turbo. Adding boost will only complicate things.

WD

Thanks.

That's a whole lot of money I just saved, huh?For the idle issue,it seems like it might be the EGR,since, if you've ever opened/closed the valve while the engine's running,it'll have the same idle problem.

Doubt it's EGR related. Things to do/check prior to going with boost.

Swap out your plugs and wires, have a look at the rotor and cap, might as well change those two. This will insure you're getting good spark, which is very important once you go with any type of forced induction.

I'll bet a paycheck that you need to replace the majority of your vacuum lines on the intake manifold. Best to just go to Ace or AutoZone and buy like 12 feet of various sizes and replace anything you can reach. Use a mirror to inspect the hoses you can't see.

Get some Seafoam and follow the directions on how to use it.

Check your compression.

To show the importance of vacuum, I watched a RX7 make 47 hp on the dyno just by swapping out old vacuum lines.

Most definitely, man.Thanks for the tips!Best, though not the easiest, would be to pull the engine,port, polish, inspection, etc,then replace hoses, huh?

I have the solid lifter conversion from hybridKA. I needed a new set cause the stocks kept collapsing on me. The solid kit was about half the price as new factory ones. So I had no problem switching. They should be louder than the stock hydro units but I run them at a little closer gap then recomended and they quieted down a lot. The solid rocker arms aren't specific to turbo. The main thing they let you do is essentially run any cam in the head without needing to mill the towers any. You just need to check the valve lash every other oil change.

I went and got a set of chevy valve cover T-bolts and drilled and tapped my head so they bolt in. So now I don't need any tools to take the valve cover off.

Kinda like these: http://www.mooneyesusa.com/images/ss4936.jpg

Checking valve lash is the number one reason I'm a Hyd lifter guy

I contemplated going with a solid roller on my Monte years ago. Then I helped my buddy check his valve lash, then I helped him check it again...lol. Then I decided good hyd was the way to go.

Although if they need to be replaced and the solid conversion is cheaper...I may have gone solid.

Shifter027 wrote:Most definitely, man.Thanks for the tips!Best, though not the easiest, would be to pull the engine,port, polish, inspection, etc,then replace hoses, huh?

If you have a friend to help the motor and trans will come right out. I suggest getting a decent load leveler, you can order them from Summit...atleast that's where I got mine. I installed my motor/trans combo by myself a little while back...sucked but I got it done. Two people would make the job mucho easier.

WD

Checking valve lash on the KA24E is way easy though. And most of the time you just have to measure it; no adjustment needed. Surprisingly, Nissan was the cheapest of all the places I looked at. For the entire set of 12 rockers and the rocker shafts, it was going to be $600+. The solids were $300 and the shafts were only $100. I would have stayed hydro if checking lash was like the KA24DE's cam on bucket design. I had plans to use an agressive cam and found out I didn't have to mill the cam towers with the solids. That alone sold me on the solids.

too bad hybird ka dun make them ne more i wish they still do

sorry to threed jack but what the hell is a hybrid ka.this migjht be a noob qustion but i had to ask

By hybrid ka,I'd assume he was talking about a company that produced a solid lifter conversion for KA24E's.Otherwise,he'd be talking about a hybrid motor with a KA24E block but KA24DE head or something along the lines of that.SR20DE block with SR20VE head would be another example

the k24e and k24de heads or blocks are not interchangeable i dont know about the sr's but the oil passage ways and water passages are very different between the e and the de

Oh.Well I was just using an example (I'm sure you've got the gist of it.)

Here is the link to the solid lifters.

http://estore.websitepros.com/...o=529

are you going for big horse power numbers cause thats really over kill for a regrind cam even the nismo cams dont require solid lifters plus the constaint checking and re checking doesnt seam worth the trouble for the abilty to use the more aggressive cam profiles. you do know that cams dont actully make power they are just an improvement over the oem profile, by moving the power/ torque curve up or down but the more aggressive the less streetable it becomes

Oh yeah,I know.Thinking more about it,I don't plan on doing the conversion or camming the motor,since it's a lot of extra money I could be saving.Hydros work better in the winter, I'd say, since they adjust on their own,while solids need to be adjusted.

I got my solids from oandj...they helped out quite abit in the upper rpm range. the dyno runs were a lot more consistent as opposed to stock...and the adjustments arent bad at all. if your already turboing you car then you have more than enough mechanical skill. it is literly a wrench, flat tip screw driver, and some feeler gauge. takes less than ten minutes to do and you have no worries about any collapsing...worth every penny and the 10 minutes imo....thanks omar

I need some of these a head a set on my racecar and broke one is really like a new set. Any help would be greatly appreciated.