ka24e running rich

[rsagen]

any quick ideas on why my car would run rich?

Specs on it.

106,000 km on it
1989 coupe
5sp but used to be an auto (still has auto ecu)
after-market exhaust (no cat)

other then what is listed everything is bone stock.

things I tryed:
changed air filter
checked spark plugs (all were perfect)
running different grades of gasoline.

I know its running rich because:
rough starts when warm <-- only when warm
my stainless steel after-market muffler gets covered in carbon 500 km.


Any ideas?

[PyR0NiAk]

any quick ideas on why my car would run rich?

Specs on it.

106,000 km on it
1989 coupe
5sp but used to be an auto (still has auto ecu)
after-market exhaust (no cat)

other then what is listed everything is bone stock.

things I tryed:
changed air filter
checked spark plugs (all were perfect)
running different grades of gasoline.

I know its running rich because:
rough starts when warm <-- only when warm
my stainless steel after-market muffler gets covered in carbon 500 km.


Any ideas?

MAF sensor... When they get dirty or quit working, the ecu dumps more fuel to avoid going lean.

2nd option would be an O2 sensor

[rsagen]

Do you think I could just clean the sensor or should it be replaced if I cant clean it?

kinda on a budget here.

[PyR0NiAk]

Do you think I could just clean the sensor or should it be replaced if I cant clean it?

kinda on a budget here.

They sell maf cleaner at auto zone.. There's a probe looking thing sticking down in the maf. That's the actual sensor. Clean that. There are instructions on the can, although it's pretty self explanatory.

[rsagen]

ok cool Ill get on that.

Thanks

[lbreevesii]

Probably the maf, but the temp sender(the red one) can cause it to dump fuel of its bad as well.

[rsagen]

Probably the maf, but the temp sender(the red one) can cause it to dump fuel of its bad as well.

So i looked at the maf sensor and its really clean, looks good to me,
and if the temp sender was bad wouldnt the gauge in the car go crazy aswell?

anyways Im stumpted.

I get about 19MPG on the hiway if im taking it easy so i guess its not too bad.

[sx moneypit]

The engine has 2 coolant sensors, 1 for the gauge and another for the ECU.

[rsagen]

The engine has 2 coolant sensors, 1 for the gauge and another for the ECU.

do you know where the other sensor is?

thanks

[sx moneypit]

It the two wire sensor located where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine.

[rsagen]

It the two wire sensor located where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine.

So we had a cold spell here where I live. Im talking about 3 degrees celusis, well thats cold for summer time.

i have given the car a minute or two to warm up and unless the engine temp is right in the middle on the gauge, where it should be, the car runs like s*** between idling and 3000 rpm.

i just dont no anymore.

so it runs like s*** when cold, and starts like s*** when warm. does this even make any sense?

[PyR0NiAk]

It the two wire sensor located where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine.

So we had a cold spell here where I live. Im talking about 3 degrees celusis, well thats cold for summer time.

i have given the car a minute or two to warm up and unless the engine temp is right in the middle on the gauge, where it should be, the car runs like s*** between idling and 3000 rpm.

i just dont no anymore.

so it runs like s*** when cold, and starts like s*** when warm. does this even make any sense?

Sounds like the temp sensor theory is correct.

[shiro_neko]

check your air regulator. it should be open during warm up. yeah and check the temp sensor

[rsagen]

check your air regulator. it should be open during warm up. yeah and check the temp sensor

where is the air regulator?!

so today the car actually died on me too.

i tryed a new tps
i tryed removing the ecu temp sender and cleaning it and it didnt work. i also tryed jumping the wire and that didnt work either.


i should also mention that i have my auto cpu in my 5 speed b/c i didnt change it after my conversion.

what else could it possibly be??


i can get the car to stay running at about 250 to 300 rpms max. if i push it any more then that flames and huge popping sounds come out of the tailpipe. so the only expaination i can come up with is its not getting air... or just too much fuel.

how do i fix it i have to go to work

[locoluna825]

The Air regulator i think they are talking about is on the back of the intake manifold. If you look youll see two connections going to it. its bolted up to the back of your intake mani by the firewall. make sure the connections are properly secure and are in good condition, check for cracked exposed wiring, or for green looking terminals in the male and female ends of the connections. You should probably give it a good cleaning too. heres a tutorial on how to clean it.post5392847.html?hilit=iacv%20cleaning#p5392847

[konjiki7]

Did you try swapping the fpr?

My friend got a free engine flush when his fpr died and flooded the engine.

[rsagen]

Ok ill check the air reg.

What's fpr?

Thanks

[konjiki7]

Fuel pressure regulator.

Its should be located on back of the fuel rail. It controls the amount of fuel pressure put on the injectors. So when they signaled to open or spay they push the correct amount to the engine.

http://www.needfulthings.net/forsale/pa ... ntake1.jpg

[rsagen]

Fuel pressure regulator.

Its should be located on back of the fuel rail. It controls the amount of fuel pressure put on the injectors. So when they signaled to open or spay they push the correct amount to the engine.

http://www.needfulthings.net/forsale/pa ... ntake1.jpg

I have a ka24e that the bottom end started to knock in, so I think im just going to try swaping the intakes, and if that dont work im going to think it would be something else.

thanks for the advice

[Klits562]

try your o2 sensor, you might also want to check the intake air temp sensor its either on the stock air box were the air filter is or if you have an aftermarket cone filter ir should be somewere on your intake by your maf.
that or the coolant temp sensor.

[rsagen]

well the car is still running a bit rich, i changed everything!

anyway the fuel pump went out on my one day so i just changed it and started driving it again.

i guess consider this thread closed

[lbreevesii]

Go look at the FSM for proper resistance across the temp sensor. From what I read you didn't really test that properly. Cleaning it wouldn't really do anything unless the contacts were nasty, its a mater of does the sensor work properly internally or not.