ka24e problems!!help!!!!!!!!!

[ka24depignosecoupe]

i have a 1990 nissan 240 coupe with a ka24e and i has been giving me some problems that i can't figger out!!

problem#1

when you turn the car on when it is cold the revs huver between 800-900 rpm then after 5 to 10 mins the kae idles at 1000rpm and then 5mins after that it shoots up to 1300rpm and 1400rpm at idle!!!WTF!!!!!!

people have been telling me that it is a vaccum hose and some people have been telling me that is is my injector wires that are shot.i have no clue what it is!!! help please!!!

problem#2

after 7 or 8mins of being on the heat gauge on the dash is in the middle of hot and cold is this ok?

please help me i need to get this car back on the road!!!!

[spindrift187]

Have you at least tried checking your vaccuum lines?

Also what's wrong with the temp reading in the middle after warming up?

[ka24depignosecoupe]

i dont want to sound like a noob but is it normal for the temp gauge to be in the middle?

i checked my vacum lines and i am not hearing any hissing should i spray something on the lines to check if i have a small leak?

[Gabes13]

I have a bad radiator and the temp sits right above the middle dash. iirc the middle should be ~190 degrees, so you're good. to prob #1; It's pretty normal normal for cold and hot idles to differ on old cars like the 240s but if it's an issue you're concerned with check your MAF or even your TPS.

[ka24depignosecoupe]

thanks dude!!

[Vegascorbin]

One other thing is remember that the timing is set with the engine warm and the TPS unpluged.

Make sure you have set the timing properly.

[gumby74]

Nissan had some pretty cheap instrumentation for...a damn long while there. The temp gauge is basically a 3 point switch indicating cold, operating temp. (which covers about a 30* window) and too late. It should set in the middle though.As for the idle, it may just be the heat and age on the wiring, I know mine is pretty jacked up. Give the engine bay a thorough check out though. Check ignition timing, replace vacuum hoses, clean all sensor connectors of corrossion, and the tps sensor.

[sideways13]

i have about the same problem, okay so like 3 days ago i changed my spark plugs and i drove it that night and it ran fine then i didnt drive it for 2days and now i got up jumped in and it was horribble. i idled really rough as if my maf wasnt connected but it was. the it almost died on me at the stop light so i berly got home and it had a hard time turning over and staring sometimes it wouldnt even click. i check the grounds they seem fine. all the spark plug wires are connected but im about to just get new ones. someone told me i could be runniing on 3 pistons?? is this bad? and is it expensive to fix? im on lowww cash and its my only way around so i need a cheap fix. or and i was also told blown head gasket? that car shakes at idle and has really low power at take off and kinda back fires as if it didnt want to go. someone help me???

[gumby74]

i have about the same problem, okay so like 3 days ago i changed my spark plugs and i drove it that night and it ran fine then i didnt drive it for 2days and now i got up jumped in and it was horribble. i idled really rough as if my maf wasnt connected but it was. the it almost died on me at the stop light so i berly got home and it had a hard time turning over and staring sometimes it wouldnt even click. i check the grounds they seem fine. all the spark plug wires are connected but im about to just get new ones. someone told me i could be runniing on 3 pistons?? is this bad? and is it expensive to fix? im on lowww cash and its my only way around so i need a cheap fix. or and i was also told blown head gasket? that car shakes at idle and has really low power at take off and kinda back fires as if it didnt want to go. someone help me???

If you have never replaced your fuel pump, that is a very real possibility.How was the car running before these events? Has the engine been over-heated or run with low oil at all?Check the spark plugs for fouling or smelling of raw gas, check the oil (a simple check of the dipstick may be enough) for white or milky spots. That would indicate coolant is mixing with oil.But if this is something that just started happening out of the blue, I am thinking the fuel pump is on it's way out.

[sideways13]

i was told the fuel pump by some friends, should i get it new or from a local pick n pull?? also am looking at getting a new battery and checking all my vacum lines for leaks, the car ran fine b4 i stopped driving it for todays and now like on take offs it doesnt want to go as if it dien then it comes back and its kinda like a boost of power. hopefully i have this all sorted out i was supposed to do my 5speed swap and now this is happening

[gumby74]

It does not make sense to replace a 15+ year old part with another 15+ year old part.A new fuel pump is going to run you just over $100. Make sure to replace the fuel filter as well.

[sideways13]

good point. ill get a new one. and i upgraded the fuel fliter b4 all this happaned. and also just a little update. got home turned the key and only turned over twice and with a struggle then it wouldnt anymore ill keep you guys posted im out to fix it tomorrow hopefully itll be running and ready for a 5speed swap =D

[i240sx]

my problem..loose battery connection, injector wire..engine idle up and down when i wiggle wires...anything can help in a sohc motor.

[sideways13]

ya i fixed that problem it and now a week later me alternator went out no now my 240 is down and i have no money haha =[ im pulling the alternator today =] hopefully its no more then that

[240sxbuffy]

Have you tried TESTING the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE (IAC) have read a a ton of posts and people seem to recomend replacing that for everything from lack of power to overheating, and steering wheel vibration issues yet you write in with the only complaint so far that would be related to the IAC and no one has recomended that yet. NOTE I am saying test not replace and don't waste your time trying to clean it. BUY a service manual.