Ka24e Installation

Forum for the Xterra, Frontier and Hardbody, the smaller workhorses of the Nissan lineup!
kdwiedmann
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2014 8:27 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan Pickup XE

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Alright fella's, my old engine ended up breaking a timing chain guide. We found the guide in the bottom of the oil pan. My friend and I just decided to take a risk and get another engine. We pulled the engine out which was a tricky procedure with the oil pan. But we managed to get it with adjusting the chains on the cherry picker. My new question is do you guys have any advice for putting a new one in? Should we remove the front axel like the Haynes books says or is there a trick? Also we just pulled the engine, so it'll also be tricky lining up the input shaft up just right.

Any ideas or opinions would be great..
thanks


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Rev_D21
Posts: 5946
Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2003 9:49 pm
Car: 1986.5 D21 LB HD 2WD V6 5Speed
1991 D21 Reg 2WD Auto
1995 D21 Reg 2WD 5Spd
1996 D21 Reg 4WD 5Spd
2012 Versa 1.6S 5-Speed
Location: Somwhere in Western NY
Contact:

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I would say you are probably sunk with removing the front axle. That oil pan just leaves no clearance to play around with. It won't be that bad.

kdwiedmann
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2014 8:27 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan Pickup XE

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Well I started getting this other engine ready to put back in the truck. Decided to just go ahead and put a new valve cover gasket, and the oil pan. There were leaking out a bit. FIgured I had better do it while the engine was pulled. As I took off the oil pan I found a interesting discovery. The same thing had happened to this engine. The piece of junk plastic timing chain guide was broke. This just had one piece in the pan, unlike my old engine where there were over 100 pieces. So I ordered the timing chain kit and put the new guides and tensioner on. The chain looked to be in good shape still, so I didn't mess with it. That cover sure is a pain to put back with the oil pump and distributor, but I think I did it correct. Theres no antifreeze in the oil, and no metal shavings so I think I'm in the clear to go. I decided to just go ahead and put and new clutch in too while it's pulled. I know you fellas are tired of me asking questions but I've heard from people that you should use the original flywheel that was original with the truck? Is this the case? Or will I be fine with just using the one thats one the newer engine? And does the flywheel have to be lined up in a certain spot or can I just torque it down and call it a day? And finally...(sorry for some many questions) if you guys would recommend a good clutch that would be great for a 95 Ka24e.

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Rev_D21
Posts: 5946
Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2003 9:49 pm
Car: 1986.5 D21 LB HD 2WD V6 5Speed
1991 D21 Reg 2WD Auto
1995 D21 Reg 2WD 5Spd
1996 D21 Reg 4WD 5Spd
2012 Versa 1.6S 5-Speed
Location: Somwhere in Western NY
Contact:

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Centerforce. We ran a Centerforce clutch with a 280ZX flywheel on the rallycross truck, which was 4wd, and it was very peppy. I think it was peppier than my 2wd with stock parts.

whomadewho
Posts: 547
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Just an opinion - The engine is going to be a pain to R&R, myself as long as I have the pan off I would mark and check a couple of MAIN BEARINGS to make sure the engine is half way decent. Leave the rod bearings alone. If the bearings look ok torque them to back to specs. As far as the flywheel I would have it resurfaced. Centerforce makes a good product, myself I would stay away from a stage disc. Go new plate and disc not rebuilt. Hayes makes a heavy duty clutch and disc for a lot less money. You are better off buying a complete kit. I would also replace the clutch slave cylinder. Something I always do, when I remove the main bearings I set them in front of the odometer and take a picture of them, good selling point if you resale the truck.

kdwiedmann
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2014 8:27 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan Pickup XE

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Well I put a new clutch and pressure plate on. Finally got the engine dropped in, bolted all up and everything. Was curious to see how the clutch worked since I replaced the throwout bearing. We my curiosity got the best of me. It doesn't work. The slave cylinder is pushing all it can push, and the metal (fork) that moves the bearing is stuck. I removed the rubber boot to investigate before pulling the engine again, and it looks like the bearing is already touching the pressure plate. The bearing is all the way to the back of the spline shaft. Can anyone tell me if the 4x4 model pressure plate is diff from a 4x2 model? When I purchased it they didn't ask. The only thing I can think of is the width of the pressure plate. Hope someone can help.

whomadewho
Posts: 547
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Should be the same. The bottom line if the shaft diameter, (1 inch,24 spline) or the disc diameter (9 1/2 inch) were different you would not have been able to bolt the assembly together. I am thinking the clutch fork maybe out of place. Remove the slave cylinder completely, and check and see if the clutch fork moves freely back and forward. IF it does replace the slave cylinder and bleed the system. Old slave cylinders tend to form sludge, and when a new clutch assembly is installed the position changes, driving the piston into the build up. Also try having someone pushing the clutch pedal down and have someone under the truck and observe the slave cylinder rod for travel. - Question - when you depress the clutch pedal - How much travel are you getting????? Does the pedal travel all the way to the bottom??? Does the pedal push easy or hard ???? One other check IF you removed the slave cylinder and the cooper washers x2 got lost or misplaced the slave cylinder will not work properly.

whomadewho
Posts: 547
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Quick question - when you ordered the clutch did you specify the correct engine size???? The OD on the 2.4 L is 9.55 and the 3.0L has a 9.88 OD. Both clutch assemblies have a 1 inch - 24 spline disc. Looking at the hub on the disc, they appear somewhat different.

whomadewho
Posts: 547
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:32 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan pickup

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Before you take it apart take the part # off the box and see what application the clutch assembly fits.

kdwiedmann
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2014 8:27 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan Pickup XE

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Well, I looked up the part number and it says it's an exact fit for my truck haha. So I'll get a new slave cylinder tomorrow and see. The fluid was pretty nasty so my only hope is that the cylinder being 19 years old would compress back all the way. We shall see!!! I'm def not going to pull the engine again. transmission will be comin out this time

1996D21MAN
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2014 11:26 pm
Car: 1996 Nissan D21 Regular cab pickup

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I am new here tonight,so I hope I am posting this in the right place.I too , have the timing chain issue to deal with.Only thing is,I forgot how to line up the marks ! Do the dots line up,through the center line of the gears,OR point straight up,or off at about 10:00 ?Seems like I did it a weird way before,can't remember ! This is the 4th time I have done one,mine is a '96 D-21,now with 355,000 miles.Had it from new.Just found this site,hope to be here a lot . (Also looking for all parts to convert it over to an automatic,and all interior parts for a '94-95 Pathfinder !) :bowrofl:


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