Hey guys,
I finally got my 89 hatch to fire after 2 months of work and sorting out problems. Now there is one final problem that I am starting to get frustrated with. In the beginning, the car wasnt getting spark. I swapped the entire upper engine harness and that solved the spark problem. After messing with the timing and getting everything straight, it fired for the first time since ive owned it. But it wont idle. My question is, what are the main things that could cause this?
I drove it around the block and it was also really under powered and boggy. I think it might have to do with the egr valve because the harness i swapped in was off of a car with an egr delete, and my car is still running an egr. Could that be my problem?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
KA24E idling problems
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Ryansanders23
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2014 4:29 pm
- Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx Hatch
Stock ka24e 5 speed - Location: Steamboat Springs, CO
- Contact:
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frapjap
- Posts: 13175
- Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 2:46 pm
- Car: '99 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
'07 Subaru Legacy - Location: South Coast Massachusetts
Re: KA24E idling problems
Welcome to NICO and congrats on the hatch and doing your own work!
Your symptoms could be caused by many potential little issues.
Here are a few things to check!
- Search for vacuum leaks. Get some carb cleaner and spray it around any and all vacuum lines while the car is running to see if you get a peak in RPM. Use Youtube for an example of how to do this if you're uncertain.
- How old is your fuel in the tank?
- How old are the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? If they're not new, inspect and consider replacing them.
- Are you 100% sure you set the timing correctly? Can't hurt to double check since one tooth can be the difference between your car running or not. Its an easy mistake to make. plug up a timing gun to it and see what you've got. (Check the FSM link in my signature to find out what it should be)
- Check to see if the distributor is 180'd out. On the distributor cap, swap the positions of the plug wires for cylinder 1 and cylinder 4.
- EGR probably won't give you this problem, but to rule it out for sure, unscrew the bung for the EGR tube at the header/exhaust manifold and stick a nickel in there and tighten it back up again- instant block off!
Check on all of the above for us and we'll be better able to help you diagnose your trouble and get your hatch on the road.
If you can provide a video, that would be even better.
Also, post in the below thread with a link to this thread and Papasmurf can help you out, too.
the-i-m-new-here-and-i-have-a-simple-qu ... 13343.html
Your symptoms could be caused by many potential little issues.
Here are a few things to check!
- Search for vacuum leaks. Get some carb cleaner and spray it around any and all vacuum lines while the car is running to see if you get a peak in RPM. Use Youtube for an example of how to do this if you're uncertain.
- How old is your fuel in the tank?
- How old are the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? If they're not new, inspect and consider replacing them.
- Are you 100% sure you set the timing correctly? Can't hurt to double check since one tooth can be the difference between your car running or not. Its an easy mistake to make. plug up a timing gun to it and see what you've got. (Check the FSM link in my signature to find out what it should be)
- Check to see if the distributor is 180'd out. On the distributor cap, swap the positions of the plug wires for cylinder 1 and cylinder 4.
- EGR probably won't give you this problem, but to rule it out for sure, unscrew the bung for the EGR tube at the header/exhaust manifold and stick a nickel in there and tighten it back up again- instant block off!
Check on all of the above for us and we'll be better able to help you diagnose your trouble and get your hatch on the road.
If you can provide a video, that would be even better.
Also, post in the below thread with a link to this thread and Papasmurf can help you out, too.
the-i-m-new-here-and-i-have-a-simple-qu ... 13343.html