KA24E HELP motor problems need help

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nurvcom
Posts: 56
Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:11 pm

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ok I have 1989 240sx with KA24E

I got car and timing chain needed done bad it was acting funny and dint what to start

well i did Compression check and it was 170 or better from all cylinders

So i popped head off send it to get check it was ok so i cleaned it and got all new gaskets and timing chain

i lined everything up as oem setup and new dizzy cap + rotor new plugs and wires fresh gas and repaird all broken and bad wires on sensors checked all Smog (SH1T) and i started it and head sound kinda noisy and it hesitate and doesnt what to idel down to 800 it stays above 1200 or higher so i check TPS and ajusted idel screw and got it down to 900 but it BOGGS bad and GOT NO CEL or anything i check CEL and ECU to make shur it was working

Could anyone help

i dont what to drive it if wont work right and i dont what to damage it


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Wc240
Posts: 899
Joined: Tue May 12, 2009 8:58 pm
Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
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holy crap, how many redbulls did you have before you typed that ish? j/k im just messin with ya.First, id go thru the proper procedure for the timing and idle adjusment AGAIN! make sure 100% that its correct becouse honestly it almost sounds like you indexed the oil pump shaft wrong( dont get pissed or feel bad, its a PITA and happens all the time. If thats all good, disconnect the battery for a while and let the ecu reset, then start it and let it warm up. rev it up a bit(dont bounce the needle)after doin work like that the motors not gonna idle perfectly right away. its gotta find where its at and adjust accordingly.Hope that helps ya Also, check the compression again, just kinda to make sure.

nurvcom
Posts: 56
Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:11 pm

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ok

well when i stab oil pump/dizzy the rotor was facing at 4 o'clock and

when i turn dizzy towards car revs more and higher idle more responsive and turn it other why idle go down and car acts laggy spark plug are gap correctly

Could some of the sensors on motor be bad? or still dizzy timing

oo and head is kinda noise like no oil in head or is the lifter getting stuck?

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locoluna825
Posts: 862
Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:09 pm
Car: 90 240sx coupe

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whenever you rip the head off a sohc they always get noisy, sometimes something can get into one of the oil channels from taking it off and travel to one to the tappets after being reinstalled, the rocker assembly is supposed to be bled.

when i took my head off it was noisy as hell and i couldn't stand it i experimented with different types of oil (thick oil works good) and did like 4 oil changes in a month. i kept taking the rocker assembly off the head messing around with it trying to get it to quiet down. but i eventually went to a pick apart ripped another head off another 240 and stuck the rocker assembly onto my car.

it was much more quiet but still had one or two taps coming from the head but eventually i guess it finally bled itself out and went away. its very quiet now.

As for the high idle, if your battery was unplugged for a while it might have cleared the memory on your ecu, i believe a cars idle is adjusted according to altitude. and with the ecu wiped form being unplugged from the battery it looses that memory, I live in a higher altitude area, about 4000 feet above see level. and i had wiped my ecu on purpose, then the idle was very low, so like u i adjusted the idle so it would be normal. with in a week of driving it around, the car started idling really hi so i adjusted it back and it was idling normal with it back to what it was.

another instance of this was when we tried to smog a friends ford ranger. the car was throwing and engine light. so we thought we would be clever and unplug the battery, clear the memory on it and get it to the smog guy before it came back on. well the smog guy couldn't smog it. He told us (from what he had described) " the ecu had not calibrated itself yet" we asked him what he meant and he knew that the ecu had been cleared and it wouldn't even pass the smog test because now the exhaust was spewing out more co2 than it should have been. he told us to "just drive the car" like at 55mph or more, so we did for a couple days the engine light came back on after that so it didn't pass visual, but it did now pass the smog part.

my overall suggestion is to make sure your setup is all correct, get a timing light and make sure its dead-on. put the idle screw back to where it was. Run some thicker oil in that thing and get some highway speed miles on it for about 30 minutes. and just drive it around town
Modified by locoluna825 at 9:14 AM 6/19/2009

theengineguy
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 4:26 pm
Car: 1995 240sx se

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the relearn on the 240 is very short... loco the smog guy told you to drive it because obd2 systems are set to tell when you have erased the codes and you must drive them untill all the systems have gone through their checks( effectivly resetting the light if there was a failure).

back to your funky idle... check vac leaks as your idle is always constant. you can do this by getting a can of carb spray and spraying on all hoses( one at a time and wait 20-30 sec between each) and air seals such as intake t-body and anything after the maf. listen for an rpm change( goes up or bogges down) if this happens you just sprayed on something that leaks and sinse the carb spray got sucked in it changed the engine rpm

if that yeilds you nothing and you have no codes present there is a tsb out from nissan to replace the ecu in 90- 91 s13's,

but before you do that atleast unplug the IAC and see if that canges things. if it does plug it back in and tap on it with a screw driver( blunt end) if idle changes you may have a bad idle air control valve.

good luck gittin her running right


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