KA24E Dry Sump oil system

[brooin8]

If you have a Nissan power steering pump that is not in use, this might give you an idea as to where it might belong.

I decided to take a Datsun 510 and make a Ka24E fit as low as I could for nice center of gravity, but also towards the fire wall for behind the front wheel handling. The result of this idea came clearance issues among other things. My solution was simple. Take the system I had initially and replace it with a Dry Sump system.

After researching for about a month, I found that no one has taken a vane style PS pump and trusted it with a dry sump set up. I don't blame them, because the PS pump usually already has a job to do, and it does a great job at that. I on the other hand, had no power steering box because my very light 510 just doesn't really need it. I like to relate my car setup to the McLaren F1 in the PS area lol.
The traditional gear type pump has drawbacks that the vane style pump does not have. The vane style is more efficient and has less wear for a more reliable flow. The fins supply constant pressure with very little power loss through the cycle. A gear pump does wear more and is less efficient. Gear pumps cost less to maintain, but need more maintenance. The gear pump is also more compact making it easier to mount. Vane pumps tend to be bulky and harder to mount. My mind was made up.

The system I used consists of:
The oil container with according outputs and inputs.
The AN fittings, -6, -8, -10.
Oil filter distribution block
Engine block input/output plate
hydraulic parker hose 300psi hose
A lot of AN fittings of all types.
Stock KA PS pump
PS adapter to -6
Flow regulator for the feed
Stiffer spring for PS pump relief Valve.
~$300 for the setup
I started with plumbing the whole system to see where things fit. After the lines were routed, I used a drill to turn the pump without the belt on it to see if I got pressure. I did, and the flow was the same, if not more than my oil pump. I need to do an exact flow rate when I have time, because I know flow and pressure are two different things.

After I got the guts to start the car on the system, I noticed that when idle, I was at 30psi, and when revving past 2500, I got a drop in pressure. This was the relief valve kicking in. I used a stronger spring to fix this. Pressure increases with rpm at 10psi per 1k of rpm. Idle is around 40 psi cold on light weight oil.


I will be adding pictures soon. Here is a video for now https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpBn-5Fpg6Q

[WDRacing]

I'm not sure which type of pump the MR2 uses, vane or gear, but it's electric and can be remote mounted very easily. Just food for thought.

Looking fwd to some good images.

[brooin8]

I'm not sure which type of pump the MR2 uses, vane or gear, but it's electric and can be remote mounted very easily. Just food for thought.

Looking fwd to some good images.

I am sorting through my external drive tonight to post images. From tig welding the oil tank to the completed setup.

I looked into the mr2 pump, and its a bit pricy on ebay, but looks like a good future project. Its a vane style and might be troublesome getting the lower pressure at idle, and have it climb with rpm being electric driven.

[WDRacing]

Since it's electric you could control the voltage going to the pump, maybe. Lower the voltage at idle but have it ramp back up at whatever chosen rpm.

[brooin8]

Since it's electric you could control the voltage going to the pump, maybe. Lower the voltage at idle but have it ramp back up at whatever chosen rpm.

I could use my potentiometer from my 5v ref of my TPS, connect that to a transistor and use the voltage increase with throttle to allow more current to flow to the transistor, making it variable with throttle.
I also saw the write up you made on knock sensor, I will be using that microphone you posted. Thanks for that, it will help a lot now that I am ready to tune on my "special freeway" dyno.

The thousands of pics on my external HD made it difficult to locate the special dry sump ones. Took longer than I thought, but I will be updating with visuals shortly. Sorry for the inconvenience to those who want more info on this, and are visual learners like myself.

[WDRacing]

No worries man. Get them up when you can. I'll probably make an article about it.

[brooin8]

I started the project with a sheet of 8th in mild steel sheet.
Cut the sheet into 6 pieces equaling a volume of around 2 gal.

[brooin8]

Most of the footage I took is video. More of a Vlog, but I suppose I can screen shot a few pics from the footage.
Plasma cutting box
http://youtu.be/RXM7-SZ4S2A

Tac welding box
http://youtu.be/vU84qC0cYIQ

Welding box
http://youtu.be/sSzfKocdUyA


The feed to the PS pump goes all he way through the oil tank about 1/2in from the bottom to pick up the underrated oil.
This part is a half inch pipe fitting from Home Depot by 8" long.

The middle fitting is a 90* pipe fitting that serves as my return and is just welded to the top of the box. The last 90* on the far left is just for venting.

[brooin8]

These are the parts of the PS pump that will be needed. The aluminum fitting I found at parker hoses. The exact size and pitch of the threads I forgot, but I can measure and get them.




This is the relief valve for the pump, and will decrease your pressure if stronger springs are not put in place (Harbor Freight spring kit solved this)

This is a -6 fitting that fits on top of the pump and feeds the oil block.

This Is the filter block that has 2 inputs, 2 outputs, and a oil gauge quarter inch hole tapped in the center where my gauges get the oil pressure.


On the side of the block (hard to see) is where I have an oil plate that takes the stock oil pump oil and sends it to the oil tank in the car. This is also where the filtered oil from the filter block enders the engine. Get this right or problems will be an under statement.



This is my fire wall where the feed to the PS pump is on the left, and the return from the oil pan sump is sucked out and returned to the oil tank in the car.


You can see here where the hose comes through the fire wall and returns oil to the tank (left) and the feed for the PS pump (right) is located. I have a flow control for morning start ups that keep a dry start from happening.

The right side of the tank has two hoses into one because of a design that I ended up not using. I was trying to make it easier to change oil, but spillage is bound to happen with my current setup. At least I have some sort of sight glass to see how much oil I do have. Both pumps are about even, fluctuation in oil supply does not really happen, its always a steady level.



JB weld was my friend is much of his project, including the oil pan where I had to weld a plate flat on the pan for clearance. Not for structural use, but to insure my welding had no pin holes.

[WDRacing]

Nothing wrong with a little JB-Weld! I've fixed hundreds of things with it over the years. Great pics man!

[brooin8]

Nothing wrong with a little JB-Weld! I've fixed hundreds of things with it over the years. Great pics man!

Thanks!
I took some time on the description.
Took care of the DMV today, I sould be on the road very soon to test the system out under boost.

[WDRacing]

I'm going to start working on putting this into an article for the tech section. Is there anything advice wise or anything at all that you would like to add to the article?

[WDRacing]

Any seat time yet?

Mind if I use your video in an article?

[brooin8]

Any seat time yet?

Mind if I use your video in an article?

No I don't mind at all, go right ahead.
Yes I have had some seat time and found that at idle for more than 5 min, the PS pump pulls more oil than the stock pump returns.
I think this is because the stock pump only puts out about 15 psi at idle as where my ps pump puts out about 30psi at idle.
As long as I give it a little rev within the 5 min, the oil tank fills right back up to full and I am fine.
Got rid of the stock IACV and just turned up the idle screw for now. Runs way better.
Still trying to map the timing for boost.
Update video soon.
The wife doesn't make a good passenger seat tuner, and finding a friend to do it for me is hard at the moment.

[2FourTee]

Very cool idea. There was one of the Nissan CORR engines for sale on ebay not too long ago and the part that interested me the most was the dry-sump setup.