KA24E Completely Confusing Engine problem

[rocksteady_racer]

I tore it down and put it all back together (remove timing cover, resealed, and put it back, with the oil thrower), new radiator, new oil pump. When I started the car it started fine. It idles at 400 rpm, won't rev past 1000rpm. and makes a funny ticking noise. I didn't screw with the chain at all so not engine timing. New spark plugs, new oil filter, new oil. So either the oil/distributor timing is backwards but wouldn't it back fire out the intake then and not run at all? Maybe the new oil pump is bad, but that doesn't explain the 400 rpm idle or is that it's safe mode? One of the belts could be too tight? I gave them a little slack so that wouldn't happen, but that wouldn't cause a problem like this right? It was sitting for a like year not running, so I was thinking maybe the gas in it is just real bad? All the sensors are connected and the same way they were before I took it apart. Any ideas of what I could've possibly screwed up?

EDIT: Also I didn't disconnect the throttle linkage or screw with it in anyway, it won't rev past 1k with the physical throttle wide open. Also it has an aeromotive fpr with gauge, so I know it's not fuel pressure itself or an fpr problem.

Also it's not like it's slamming into a limiter, it just refuses to go above 1k rpm.

[moso]

I would first start by checking the ecu for codes ( that should be my motto ) Personally i am leaning toward improperly adjusted TPS or too low fuel pressure. if you got your aeromotive for cheap on ebay its possible that its a nockoff and the gauges are crap and usually wrong, if its a real aeromotive and a good liquid filled gauge you should have no problems there.

[rocksteady_racer]

It's a real aeromotive with a liquid filled gauge, it's good. I think I figured it out. I'm going to double check. But it reached operating temperature in like 10 seconds and on all the other symptoms, it was running mad rich before I fixed it up. So my theory, the cat is severly clogged. That and probably clogged fuel filter too, might as well replace it just in case.

Also the timing was a little off, gotta retime it again, apparently it shifted a little when I was aligning the pulley. I cranked the distributor to the right and it started to lighten up, but it still is idling at 650, until you disconnect the battery then it jumps up to 750. It's supposed to idle at 650 then jump up to 1100 when you disconnect the battery right? It was doing this before I mechanically timed it (idling at 650, won't rev past 2500 til it's warm than not over 4000). so I assume there is some other problem cause I timed the engine almost perfect mechanically I thought (the cam pin was straight up, didn't mess with the chain, and the pulley was set to TDC. also the oil pump was installed correctly (straight up and down backwards D). It still wont rev past 2500 now, but that's better than before, so I'm going to try and time it again I guess. I might as well check the compression while I'm at it cause it's odd. First time timing an engine so at least it ran I guess. But it was doing this before I retimed it, thought it was the coolant temp sensor I guess not, running mad rich all the time. And the chain was ridiculously large and the tensioners were perfect so It's gotta be something stupid I'm missing. I'm going to double check the tps when it's not so hot outside. It and the coolant temp sensor are new, maybe one of them are defective.

[moso]

clogged fuel filter Will make it run lean. clogged cat Will make it bog. adjusting the timing Will mess with the idle. disconnecting the battery only tests the alt and should only indirectly change the idle. check the ecu for codes, adjust the tps per the fsm, post back.

[Theboostmaster]

Hey, I've owned a few of these and once I had a similar problem that lasted forever. End the end all it was was the plug behind the engine cover on the flywall. I think it does something with the emissions setup, but it's been awhile I was cleanin the compartment because I was selling it and noticed it was loose or unplugged. So I removed it improved the contacts/leads for better figment and connectivity. Plugged it in and I no longer had a sluggish car it ran like new. Try that out, hope it helps. The plug was a green/yellow if I remember right cause there are a few behind the engine top at the firewall. Also a side note I currently also own an eclipse that had a sluggishness problem and everything seemed fine, but I wanted to see if my sensors were reading corre fly so I got the AEM Wideband gauge and probe to fit into my downpipe. Well my O2 sensor was fine but there was some sort of connectivity issue because my computer program allowed me to tell the car to use my Wideband readings instead of my normal O2 readings and it instately became a beast. I gOt all my power back. So I must have had a connector problem with this car to. Oh well good luck with either possibility. Lata

[rocksteady_racer]

Thanks man, I'll try that. Thanks for everyone's help. I got the timing back right. I had to install the oil pump about 15 btdc and that fixed it. It's idling at about 750 rpm but it won't rev past 5000 rpm, so that's what I was going to check. I was just going to use contact cleaner on all the connectors, cause my coolant temp sensor had some corrosion in it which was causing excessive fuel consumption, now it's a lot better just gotta track down that one pesky sensor that's left angering it lol.

[rocksteady_racer]

I think I found the problem. Anyone with a ka24e or who knows, the tps sensor pigtail should have 3 pins on the inside of it right? Mine only has 2 on the bottom, I guess one fell out or something. Any quick fixes for this or should I just go to the wanted section and get another pigtail?

***EDIT:***
Ok it was running fine for a couple hours to 4k. Now it only revs to 1500 rpm barely, don't think it's the tps sensor this time. Any ideas? Going to double check the compression to make sure it's not that. And I got somebody sending me a pigtail for the tps sensor.

[rocksteady_racer]

So checked the compression. It's in spec so not the engine thank god. The spark plugs seemed really fouled up from running without a tps sensor that works. I thought it was the fuel filter but the pressure seems really steady so I don't think so. But still won't rev past 1250-1500 now. Hopefully new sparks and direct wire the ignition, the new tps connector and some new gas will hopefully get it running again. Cause it's producing pretty steady vacuum so the only I can think is the spark plugs and fuel filter :-/. When I get it running right I'm going to boost it so thanks for all the help in advance.

[rocksteady_racer]

Ok I got a new TPS I'm getting tomorrow, so that way I can check the maf. I direct wired the ignition and it idles almost ok. Swapped in a new oxygen sensor. It revs up to about 2000 rpm and cuts out. I checked the tps it was staying at 2k ohms no matter where the throttle was so that makes sense. The coolant temp sensor is new which fixed most of the rich problems but I don't know if it broke already or not causing the engine not to rev above 2k but I assume it's a maf problem. I'm going to take it out and clean it then check the maf and cts tomorrow with my multimeter. it's getting closer to being fixed. Thanks for all the help.

[rocksteady_racer]

Ah found it, got everything else fixed, all new sensors all the way around. But I realized the engine was whistling for no apparent reason. The cat was fully clogged.