ka24e blown head gasket

[180weaver]

I just did a lot of internal upgrades on my car 89.5mm pistons, colt cam, si valves, porting, polishing, whatever you get the point. I got the block and head back from the machinist put together and the chain timed. After I install it into the car it runs pretty good for about a week. I have some clutch/driveline issues and need new shocks, but was running good, then I decided to take a longer drive to a friends house and it starts spewing out massive clouds of white smoke, so I figure great now I have to take it apart again and replace the brand new head gasket. So I do that and at the same time buy a quality water temp sensor. I have already replaced the thermostat and water pump, and have a new koyo radiator. Anyway I get the new gasket on start her up and everything is fine, run it around for a bit and the temp is about 190. I stop at my girlfriends for a bit, long enough for everything to cool. I leave and make it all the way to my driveway before it goes again. This gasket only lasted one night. So I bought a hussey copper head gasket thinking that since I have a cr of 10.6:1 maybe that is the issue. Anyway haven't started it yet thinking maybe I should ask if anyone has had a similar problem and if there are any other issues that could be causing the coolant to leak so quickly through the gasket.

[wa-chiss]

how exactly are you torquing your head bolts? I hope in stages and evenly. Also, you might want to check the flatness of the mating serfaces. I know you just had them done but they could still be off. Good luck.

P.S. I keep hearing people w/ SOHC's say "SI valves". From what and where can I pick up a set from.

[JNM240]

A quick bit of FYI: the OE head bolts are stretch bolts. Use them only once. That is why you are going through head gaskets. Pick yourself up a set of ARP head studs, it is money WELL spent.

[180weaver]

yeah I torequed them according to the maual 20lbs, then 58, then off, then 20, and finally 60. took a while, but I bought new head bolts as well, not arp though. If this time around it happens again then that is the next purchase. I wish cometic made a gasket for the sohc. I believe that si has their own website. I think that it is siindustries.com. try googling them. I think it was like 12 bones per valve plus shipping and 4 per bronze valve guide.

[mikefromtjs]

Hey my 240 has a cracked head gasket and I was wondering...How much does it cost for that gasket to be replaced.Is it too complicated for a DIY?If I am not farmiliar with taking apart engines should I attempt it or just take it to a shop?

[180weaver]

i bought a new one at the parts store for 40 something. Anything is possible with the chiltons and some time, but you are probably going to need to spend 60 or more on new head bolts and a torque wrench if you don't already have one. But I had never done it before. It isn't aquick fix though and you will need a friends hand for some things like removing the head without dropping the timing chain. I would reccomend buying a complete gasket set on ebay because it is easier to do the work with the intake manifold, and plenum out of the way, both require gaskets as well as the exchaust manifold. Take a lot of pictures of the vaccum and radiator hoses so they are replaced correctly. I left as many of them on as I could since they are molded from time now and almost line up when everything else was replaced. If you don't have another vehicle I would reccomend a shop since I would imagine with no misshaps a long weekend or several days to get everything out and then back together. Also make sure you check the block and head for cracks. My origional head gasket replace was over a year ago, since it turned out to be a cracked block, which in turn ended up being a lot of aftermarket parts and complete rebuild.

[mikefromtjs]

Yeah I have the Chilton book Its only like a thirty step process or so doesn't seem too bad. How Do I check the block for cracks withoutremoving the entire engine? AND...If it does turn out to be a cracked block what steps should I take to remedy it? (Get a new block??) I dunno.thanks for the input.

[180weaver]

Once you get the head off you will need to clean all the old gasket material off the bottom of the head as well as the actual block, once that is done just look around the areas where coolant is exchanged on both the block and the head as well as around the head bolt holes. if there is no visible damage most likely you are ok. I would also reccomend getting the head checked out to see if it is warped at all, it would be a good time to do it anyway and get it machined if necessary. If it is cracked that is up to you. I bought another ka24e complete engine w/harness for 350. If you want to stay ka24e there are plenty for sale online and possibly wherever you live. Make sure that it is from the 240sx though because the ka24e from the pickup has a different bell housing and will not work with the 240sx transmission. The other option is to swap with any number of different engines, more costly and more work, but if you are looking for a good power alternative there are several options.

[Brandon93240]

Did you have your block tanked at the machine shop? Sounds like 1 of 3 things: 1.)improper installation, 2.)improper machine work, 3.)blocked cooling pas. Did they install new freeze plugs? I'd check the machine work first and if nothing turns up I'd pull the freeze plugs and clean it out really good. I used to get reman. vortec 305/350's and the cooling pas. would be jam packed of crap right past the number 6 cylinder.

[180weaver]

yeah it was tanked and is cooling, runs at about 180. I installed new plugs when I received the block and maybe one is plugged with gasket maker sealant. I am only getting leaks at the number 4 cylinder, which on the ka24e is where there is a sht load of cooling passages. So after I get it going with this new hussey gasket if it goes again then I am pulling it and sending it back. This time I will make sure they square deck the block also. How do I check the machine work ( I imagine you are referring the the flatness of the head and block)?

[mutiny]

yeah it was tanked and is cooling, runs at about 180. I installed new plugs when I received the block and maybe one is plugged with gasket maker sealant. I am only getting leaks at the number 4 cylinder, which on the ka24e is where there is a sht load of cooling passages. So after I get it going with this new hussey gasket if it goes again then I am pulling it and sending it back. This time I will make sure they square deck the block also. How do I check the machine work ( I imagine you are referring the the flatness of the head and block)?

What machine shop did you take it to? I'm on maui too but all the places I called said they don't even have a hot tank o.O and how much you paying to get the stuff checked out etc.

[180weaver]

the guy that I went to is named stan and he has a shop out of his backyard in happy valley. I am actually not sure what hot tanked means. But I know that he left it in some crazy fluid something or other because I had the block painted before I took it to him and afterwards it was completely clean. If you want his number e-mail me at [email protected]. I also believe i found the problem. I took it to a shop and had some electrical work done since my instrument panel wasn't working. Hooked up the stock temp sensor that was going through the roof hot while the aftermarket gauge was still cool. turns out the brand new thermostat wasn't opening and caused an overheating issue in turn blowing head gaskets. go figure. problem solved, for now

[Brandon93240]

Wow that sucks, was it a oe thermostat? Also drill a small hole at the top rim of the thermostat to help air and coolant bypass to help bleed easier. I've done it on every single cooling job I've done since the late 80's with no problems whatsoever, and makes it alot easier on you. The smallest drill bit you have will work just fine.

[mutiny]

the guy that I went to is named stan and he has a shop out of his backyard in happy valley. I am actually not sure what hot tanked means. But I know that he left it in some crazy fluid something or other because I had the block painted before I took it to him and afterwards it was completely clean. If you want his number e-mail me at [email protected]. I also believe i found the problem. I took it to a shop and had some electrical work done since my instrument panel wasn't working. Hooked up the stock temp sensor that was going through the roof hot while the aftermarket gauge was still cool. turns out the brand new thermostat wasn't opening and caused an overheating issue in turn blowing head gaskets. go figure. problem solved, for now

I live kinda close to happy valley, how much did he charge you to tank it? probably was chemical stuff he soaked it in for the oil and stuff. I'll email you for the phone number and stuff I guess.

[180weaver]

do you drill next to the jiggle valve, and if so could I just tear that thing out instead?

[180weaver]

honestly not sure that he even charged me for that because it was part of the whole rebuild process. the people that I have talked to say that he is the best and does things right the first time. I believe he worked for seki's for like 30 years before going solo. He is very busy though and not the fastest turnaround, but great guy. I believe I paid 1600 to have the block cleaned, decked, bored, honed, head ported, torn down and then rebuilt with new valves, seals, etc, and head mounted to the block so that the timing would be correct, the head also was machined and internals balanced. I don't feel cheated and the engine feels strong, definitely needs to be tuned though.

[neverlift]

dood thats a good deal IF he did all tha work. I was recently quoted like 5 grand for a stock rebuild. lol I laughed real fuggin hard AT THE GUY ON THE PHONE, and said why. he kinda stumbled like I had not done any research on it,and could not mutter a response.

now for the head bolts/studs you dont NEED arp, a fastener of the same grade is the same thing. I'd put the local fastener shop's same grade stud up against arp ANY day. But you will run into issues if you dont put something NEW in. Use the circle technique as well.

[180weaver]

thanks I did get new bolts but keep having issues. Was actually able to drive it for a bit and it feels really solid, but it had sat for so long that the coolant hoses started to eat themselves from the inside out and i would blow one after the other. Think I finally have all new ones on, but the engine overheated enough to mess with the sealant i used on my copper head gasket so I have to pull ithe head off again. I am going to take it to a shop to make sure that it is still straight too. I am also trying to get a hold of big vinnie about a fully counterweighted crank so I can get the engine safely into higher rpms. Do you know anyone who does solid lifter conversions, as well as a good air fuel ratio piggyback unit so I can get my car dyno tuned real well? I am looking into an isky I think adjustable cam sprocket to get my colt cam positioned correctly. Think it is off by a little bit

[nelson8708]

you can get a solid rocker conversion from hybridka.com but it is a special order type of item and you will have to email him. Check to make sure the front cover doesnt have a leak in the coolent passenges. The timing chain on the tension side rubbed through mine so you would think you blew the HG but you really didnt. I had to have it tig welded back up.

[180weaver]

the coolant passages are in good shape, thanks for the heads up. I will never do any business with hybrid ka though. I had searched and found them did some of the contact research sent off e-mails and my valvetrain so that they could do the work and then I would pay them as per their website. I have never had a response over 7 e-mails and 2 letters, and they have no phone number (I even did some yellow pages and google searching). To this date I still have not received my stock valvetrain. So thanks but I will be going with someone else to convert to solid lifters

[mutiny]

wasn't there an explanation for procedure on how to do it yourself, or how to get it done by a machine shop for fairly cheap? just drilling it out and helicoiling it or something? maybe someone else can point out the thread or how to or whatever