KA24DET stalling problem

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
Turbo 510
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Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2003 10:45 am

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Has anyone run into a stalling problem when the engine is returning to idle when coming to a stop in their turbo KADE? It doesn't happen all of the time and always starts right up but it sure is a hassle. The BOV is routed back in to the system before the turbo but after the MAF as JWT recommends. Some one told me that the elimination of the two emissions sensors at the rear of the head are the problem, I don't think that is a concern. Any ideas???


veilsideS14
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Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2002 10:48 am
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Your BOV is routed correctly. Try turning up the idle via the idle screw on the rear passenger side of the block. I did this on mine and it worked wonders. It honestly didn't idle any higher but the revs were a lot more stable. I would suspect this would help you even more than it did me because I had an atmospheric BOV.

The sensors are crap. They don't do squat.

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C-Kwik
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I doubt the emissions sensors are the problem. Take a look at your BOV recirculation. How far is it from the MAF? At what angle does it reenter the intake? Turbulance behind the MAF can cause incorrect readings. You want to make sure it is far enough away from the MAF and/or it is angled towards the turbo.

Turbo 510
Posts: 129
Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2003 10:45 am

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It is not angled toward the turbo because it was easier to weld a perpendicular bung on the pipe than an angled one. It is however, about 18" from the MAF. This problem seems to be more prevalent when driving non aggressively.

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fiznat
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what did you do for your ECU? JWT or piggyback?

Turbo 510
Posts: 129
Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2003 10:45 am

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JWT. Somewhat expensive but it is a plug and play system. Easy to use as long as you have all of the other components and it runs extremely strong. I had some initial problems because the turbo system was completely fabricated from scratch but now it works well.

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C-Kwik
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Does it only happen when you come to a stop right after boosting. If so, check for a leak in the piping, particularly between the turbo and the Throttle body. Make sure the hose clamps holding the connectors on are very tight as well. Use a socket to tighten it. A screwdriver won't get it tight enough. A boost leak gives similar stalling problems that a open BOV does.

Turbo 510
Posts: 129
Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2003 10:45 am

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It usually happens when coming to a stop after "normal driving (not under boost). I already went through the leak problem when I split the seams on my intercooler and kept blowing the inlet tubes off the intercooler. I bead rolled all of the tube ends and re TIGed the intercooler without grinding down the welds. All of the clamps are T-band clamps that don't come loose. I think it has to be something pretty simple.

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95_240sx
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Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 7:24 pm
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Hey, when you going to get that thing out of the shop and let me ride in it? :)

Rick

s14inwashington
Posts: 13
Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2003 1:38 am

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i had the same problem. I was running the hoses that originally went to the OEm intake into the atmosphere. then i also had the MAF in the charge piping. It idled gay when i would try to stop. What to do: put the valve cover breather hose after the MAF, but before the turbo. Put the idle control hose (larger hose) into the charge piping, right before the throttle body and run the tiny hose to the atmosphere. i also put the MAF before the inlet this time. RUns like it came that way from nissan, except my car runs 13.2 on 12 pounds so its a little too fast to be stock. stock ecu, walbro 255 pump SR 370cc inj. bov is open atmosphere anyone who says it has to be plumbed back into the air intake obviously has no idea what they are talking about.

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Dattebayo
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Car: 2004 Nissan Frontier Desert Runner
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noone has considered the possibility that your IAC/AAC valve could be going bad. Although i am not turbo yet, i had those symptoms about a year ago on my half-built n/a. The gray plug on the front of the intake runners will allow you to check the electronics, but if it was like mine, the valve was sticking shut.

Turbo 510
Posts: 129
Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2003 10:45 am

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That though did occur to me. I checked it according to the Nissan 240 shop manual procedure and it checked out ok. That whole set up seemed kinda suspect but the cost of a new AAC valve is about $175. I turned up the Idle air inlet valve but haven't had a chance to drive it due to being in the middle of a PL510/HL510/MSD6A/240SX tach install puzzle.


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