KA24DET+nitrous???

[KATwo40]

Current setup:S13KA24DET (stock internals, stock head gasket/bolts)TD04H-13C (10psi)370'sWalbro 255lphStock MAFStock ECUSAFC2FMIC 30x6x3Open BOVExhaust...blah blah blaha

Currently makin' 230ish whp...no timing controller other than stock ECU...Base timing is set around 15* BTDC Most knock readings on an 85+ degree day with around 70% humidity are not more than 70-75. Sometimes I get a spike of 85-95, but rarely.

Ok, here's the deal...

I just scored a 50shot dry kit. I want to convert it to a wet kit and spray. However, my concern is: How will this play into cylinder pressure. Fuel wouldn't be an issue, since the kit would be wet. I have an external pump and can mount a small fuel cell.

Another idea was to run the kit dry pre-MAF, but that means I'll have to get the Z32 MAF and upgrade the injectors. This would also mean I'd need to spring for a tuned ECU. I think going with the wet shot would be cheaper.

Anyone see any problems with this idea? Any help/suggestions appreciated. I don't wanna blow my stuff up.

Thanks in advance.

[Florida240sx]

Don't know.Your already at 10lbs boost and no timing control...I wouldn't without better control but it should be ok...wait for the gurus to chime in.Hmm 370'ss I don't know...Might be pushing them too hard.

[KATwo40]

The injector size won't matter if you use a wet kit. The wet kit sprays nitrous and fuel into the intake.

However, the timing control does worry me. I thought about springing for an MSD BTC. Then I could leave the base timing at 15*BTDC, set the BTC to retard 1*/psi of boost and have the spray come on a throttle switch. Make it so that it sprays at like 75-80% throttle opening.

[Florida240sx]

I don't know why I was thinking injectors.Was thinking about hp of injector.But yea only concern is timing IMO.

[KATwo40]

Do you think that the stock head gasket will stand up to it?

Gotta remember, this engine has around 140k mi. on it.

[Structure240sx]

i would use it with race gas and no timing retard for that small of a shot, maybe jstu an extra degree to play it safe

retarding another 1*/psi will counter act the power the nitrous will be adding

[KATwo40]

Ahhh, I see.

So just run the 93 octane in the tank and use 110 in the nitrous fuel cell?

[neoamd]

He prob mean when you have race gas in your normal gas tank

I plan to do the same..

Josh

[Bronze MFP]

I wouldn't run the nitrous pre-MAF. The MAF meters air, not nitrous, so there is no way you could count on it adding enough fuel. Air is ~20% oxygen where nitrous is ~33% oxygen by weight.

And definitly pick up a little http://www.racegas.com/

[Structure240sx]

i was hoping when he said intake it meant very close if not in the intake manifold

once i have the rest of my methanol kit im tapping it right behind the throttle plate

[KATwo40]

The more I think about this, the more I lean toward running the dry kit, instead of the wet version.

The dry kit uses a system to elevate fuel pressure as the nitrous comes, thus resulting in more fuel. I'd rather have the fuel come from the injectors, since the intake manifold is not designed to carry fuel. I think the only way to run a proper wet kit is to use direct injection, which is far too costly for a small gain.

I see the point about not putting it in front of the MAF. I will probably tap it just behind the throttle plate or just in front of it. Either way should be fine.

Thanks again for all the input. I'm still researching this before I just slap it on. I don't have an auxillary supply of engines to test this out. I'll keep everyone posted as to my findings.

[Bronze MFP]

i've been running a single nozzle 50 shot wet kit for a few months and no problems. If you are worried about fuel pooling in the intake mani, it shouldnt if you have the nozzle jetted correctly. direct port is always better, but for a 50 shot, a single nozzle won't do you wrong.

[KATwo40]

i've been running a single nozzle 50 shot wet kit for a few months and no problems. If you are worried about fuel pooling in the intake mani, it shouldnt if you have the nozzle jetted correctly. direct port is always better, but for a 50 shot, a single nozzle won't do you wrong.

Is this WITH a turbocharger or without?

Do you see any reason why I couldn't run a dry shot, so long as the fuel psi increases appropriately?

[WDRacing]

A 50 shot will be like increasing your boost 4-5 psi. If your fuel injectors will flow enough for a 50 shot, then they will flow enough for 4-5 more psi. So I'd add the 5 psi and then add the 50 shot, but make it a wet kit. If your using a fuel cell, then fill it with methonal or denatured alcohol.

In the end I think your only problem is timing. Running 10lbs of boost is the most I would consider running with no timing control. Buy the MSD BTM and call it good. You'll feel better in the end knowing your timing issue is taken care of.

WD

[KATwo40]

A 50 shot will be like increasing your boost 4-5 psi. If your fuel injectors will flow enough for a 50 shot, then they will flow enough for 4-5 more psi. So I'd add the 5 psi and then add the 50 shot, but make it a wet kit. If your using a fuel cell, then fill it with methonal or denatured alcohol.

In the end I think your only problem is timing. Running 10lbs of boost is the most I would consider running with no timing control. Buy the MSD BTM and call it good. You'll feel better in the end knowing your timing issue is taken care of.

WD

I don't understand the math here...

You say a 50 shot is worth 4-5psi. Then you say add the 4-5psi AND the 50 shot??? I am missing something here, and I'm not trying to be sarcastic.

Also, I don't know why everyone wants me to use the wet version. The dry kit increases fuel pressure as the nitrous comes, thus increasing fuel delivery to compensate for the shot. I doubt that adding 50hp via nitrous (which is colder air than 4-5 more psi would be on my turbo because it's very small) would mean that I need methanol injection.

Most likely, I'll spring for the MSD BTM, go back to around 18* BTDC with -1* per psi of boost and run the 50 shot dry. This should get the setup close to 280-290whp.

Oh, the other main reason I don't want to achieve this power by turning up the boost 4-5psi is because my MAF is pretty much maxed out right now. Turning up more boost means get a Z32 MAF, etc.

[WDRacing]

I say add the 4-5 psi of boost so you'll have the HP all the time and the N2O for races.

Methonal means high octane and lots of added safety.

Wet/Dry either way, basically up to you. I always forget the stock MAF sucks. I assume everyone upgrades when they add boost and use the SAFII.

[KATwo40]

hehe don't get me wrong, bro. The Z32 maf is next on the list...along with an adjustable fuel psi regulator.

[BaliLover]

With a dry kit, yes the fuel pressure is increased, but the nitrous still reaches cylinder 1 first, leaving a chance for the 1st cylinder to get more nitrous than the 2nd 3rd and 4th, yet the same amount of fuel.

With a wet kit, the nitrous and fuel are mixed together by the fogger, so even if cyl. 1 gets more nitrous, it also gets more fuel to compensate.

From what I've read, you are less likely to run lean in any cylinder with a wet kit if its hooked up properly.

[KATwo40]

Hmmm, if that were the case, wouldn't the same be true of just plain old air?

If the jet is mounted 6-8" BEFORE the throttle body, I don't see how it could be any more concentrated on cyl 1 than just regular air is.