KA24DE-T Head Porting Suggestions? Please give input!

[eazye2000]

is this on an air die grinder?maybe i should take my spare head off and do this..couldnt you achieve the same thing with an electric dremel? lmk! i'll go take the head off.

The one I'm doing, I used an air die grinder. There are some pics of the carbide bit I used and the little flapper wheel. The carbide bit is 1/4" shank for my die grinder. The flapper wheel gimmick is 1/8" for my electric dremel. Air Grinders are the bomb because you can bog them down to nothing, and they wont burn up. A dremel tool will catch on fire if you bog it down too much. Plus they don't like when little pieces of metal get in there and make contact with the brushes. I used my dremel to smooth and polish because there isn't really a load on it when you do that. But my dremel burnt the hell up for the reason I just said.. Metal in brushes = bad.And depending on what air grinder you get, you can get a front exhaust one that will blow all the s*** out of the way so you can see what you're doing. I would also suggest getting a little LED flexible light like the one I have in the pictures. SO much help to see what the hell you're doing. And I would go for it man. Especially if you have an extra head laying around. It's not really that hard, and the first of second head you ever do will actually be fun. After that, you will dread ever doing it again.

...ok I'm done..

[Dammitboy]

Some pix of my old KA porting escapades.

zerothread?id=128396

Kevin

[NateDogg]

I would recommend to leave a little bit of overlap on the exhaust ports so there is a little less reversion (contamination of the intake charge).

If you want a sample of good work go to http://www.theoldone.com

[WDRacing]

The tips given are for high revving NA Honda heads. They will not be the same as low rpm forced induction heads. The pics I posted above of Scotty240's head are examples of a good professional job.

WD

[autox615]

Ive also been working on working on porting out the intake side of my ka24de head right now on my motor. Ive found that the flapper wheels are perfect. I have also went through about 10 of the 1" wheels, and I need another ten more. Which sucks cause there like over three dollars a piece. I was told by the machine shop that did some of the work on motor that the lip underneath the valve seats is where the most of the air is blocked. They've had a kade head on a flowbench and said that it flows much better than a sr. Keep in mind it is a completely different motor. Also from staring at the ports so much, I think it helps to make the intake ports as straght as you can to the valve seats, if the air has a straight flow is where its going to really matter. Ill post some pics of within the next couple days so everyone can say what they think and see. Heres a picture I do have, you can see the ports of you really look a little. work in progress.

[autox615]

[eazye2000]

Looks promising!

I hope all this information is helping people out on the DIY projects. It's not all that tough as long as you don't go apesh*t on it. Many pro's, only one con... that it takes so @#$^#$@&%#$^@!$@%! long to do!!!!!!!!!!!

[NateDogg]

eazye2000: Have you checked out the link I provided? In one of the engine building articles there are dimples punched into the upper portion of the intake runner to prevent fuel puddling? Go here to see a pic about 1/4 the way down the page http://www.theoldone.com/artic...c.htm

[NateDogg]

The tips given are for high revving NA Honda heads. They will not be the same as low rpm forced induction heads. The pics I posted above of Scotty240's head are examples of a good professional job.

WD

Can you comment on what the differences are for NA vs turbo porting?

The link I provided shows some advanced techniques which increase flow throughout all cam lifts. I think that is the universal goal in porting, isnt it?

[WDRacing]

Oh definitly, I probably didn't come across correctly with what I meant. With the intake, the head and exhaust design and portning, you have to take into consideration the type of motor and its use.

A turbo application requires much less intake air velocity to make power then a NA motor will. But it also depends on the use of the motor and car. Lets say you're building a autocross or road course car. Well you'll want low end and top end, so you'll want a more traditional port design that keeps the intake port no bigger then 85% (IIRC) of the valve size. This will maintain intake air velocity during off boost conditions and obviously increase the ability of the "vacuum" to pull in as much air as possible.

The boosted drag motor on the other hand can be drasticly redesigned. If you have the ability to make a new intake manifold, you can increase the entire intake port entry and the port itself. Huge valves can be used and the velocity of the air is totally influenced by boost alone, with the exception of the intake manifold design. But it's runners to will be designed for maximum airflow.

In a NA application, intake air velocity must be kept up at all times. This has alot to do with port shape and size. As well as intake runner design. With low velocity, you very poor driving conditions unless you have somthing similar to Honda's VTEC which allows for the lower rpms to use an entirely different cam profile.

Any of that make sense. I'll try to dig up some pics to assist.

WD