KA24DE Swap no start, has fuel, spark, compression

[Pro ViZion]

Ok so maybe you guys can help me out with this nightmare lol.
I've been searching for about 2 weeks now.

So car is a '90 hatch with a '93 engine/trans & ECU. When I first got the motor in I never bothered to open up the valve cover and check the cam timing. I figured it would be ok. But it apparently wasn't. Exhaust side was way off and when I hit the starter I was taking out valves . Afterwards re-timed it and did a compression test, wasn't too good.

Cyl 1 - 115psi, Cyl 2 - 50psi, Cyl 3 - 90psi & Cyl - 110psi. Not good so I bought another head which came from a 95. While I was at it I replaced the piston rings and rod bearings and bought a cometic headgasket and arp head studs. Compression is now between 150-160psi. Plan on building up the original head to replace the '95 later on.

Now that everything is better and all back together I can't seem to get it to start. I confirmed spark by cranking with a plug on top of the valve cover. Spark was yellowish however but the plug was old. I know I'm getting fuel because I can smell it when I crank and smell from the exhaust. Set ignition timing time and time again and its right on the money I believe. When its in and set at tdc the rotor is pointing perfectly at plug #1. And yes I made sure I set it one compression stroke. Its a little hard cause I have to tap it in there with a mallet.

I checked the ecu for codes and I'm getting a code 11 (cas) & code 34 (knock sensor). I'm not sure if it would throw a code 11 just if the timing was off or not. I haven't been able to try another one. Also the PO had simplified the intake manifold a lot. There are only say 4 vacuum lines left.

I know it was a little long but didn't want to leave any info out.


Thanks in advance.

[nissangirl74]

You might want to post this in the KA forum, as well. ka24e-ka24de-forum.html

I won't move this, sounds like you need all the help you can get. Good luck.

[compactfean]

The cas code is your issue. Also the rotor shouldn't be pointing straight to cylinder one, it should be a little before cylinder number one(20degrees BTDC Ignition timing ) when installing the dizzy. There should be two dots on the gear side. On the housing there is a notch. Line up the right upper dot with the notch and stab dizzy when at tdc. Is the knock sensor plugged in? Its easy to forget when doing that much work. It wont affect starting though. Fyi your symptoms are just like what I've had with. A bad cas. Fuel spark but no start.

[Pro ViZion]

So im guessing it wouldnt throw the code just for timing being off then right.
I just dont want to buy one if its not the case.

And yeah its plugged in. one of the wires at the connector had its shielding cracked off but i dont know if that would do it. I'll check it out.

[BigDAT]

pull your dizzy and plug it into the harness, put the key in the ON position, SLOWLY turn the rotor by hand, and listen carfully, you will hear your fuel injectors operating, and you will hear your coil clicking. IF you do not, you have a bad CAS. if you do, you do not have a bad CAS. also check continuity from the CAS plug to the ECU.

What color is your spark?

[Pro ViZion]

I have infact pulled out the dizzy and turned it and heard the clicking. Why would itt throw that code then?

The spark color is yellowish, I know it should have a blue spark.

[BigDAT]

Ok, you should really get a noid light to check the injectors, if you have one handy, repeat the process above but use a light to check that the injectors get signal.

Next step, pull your rotor and the plastic peice inside the dizzy under the rotor. you'll see the CAS and a thin metal wheel. if there is any oil in this area you need to replace the inner o-ring of the distributor (on the inside of the shaft, hard to reach) Or just buy a new Dizzy.

Also, if there is oil in that area, chances are the optics on the CAS are ruined.

[Pro ViZion]

I have already taken the dizzy apart but I'll check again.

I do not have a noid light however. Is there any other method? Could I just poke my dmm through the shielding to get a reading on the negative side?

[BigDAT]

I dont see why not, but you just need to make sure they're all firing like they should be. You could even take the rail out and fire them into a paper towel. (this way you can see any leaks or clogs)

[Pro ViZion]

Ok so I almost had it going. It was finally showing signs of running but then my distributor broke on me. Like in half lol.

[BigDAT]

thats nuts, may I ask what you did to almost get it going?

[Pro ViZion]

Yeah i was messing with the timing a little more lol. It was wierd because it would only pop like only when cyl.1 was firing. I new a new distributor obviously but since i had the code 11 (bad cas) maybe it was really bad after all anyway. I'll see when i get a new one.