KA24DE swap Cooling Problem

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
taylorf16
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:38 pm
Car: 1990 240SX
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I'm soooo lost.. I have a 90 240sx.. I swapped a 93 DE in it with a 92 harness and 92 Cali ECU... I have a KOYO aluminum core radiator (new) all new hoses, new waterpump, new thermostat (170 degrees) , new antifreeze (for those dumb folks) and the SOB still runs hot... Now mind you that I am going off of the temp gauge in the car... Is there something I should know about the way the 90 temp gauge was preset on the chassis? as far as how many lines read which temp... When I say it runs hot. I let it run for about 10 minutes.... drive it down the road and it is 1 line below the H... i dont wanna drive it because this was swap #4 (1-3 were SOHC) and I really dont want to do it again... I am going right now to get a manual temp gauge and hopefully I can solve the problem there...Let me know anyone else's experience on this problem, Thanks guys,[email protected]


DjPantsSpecR
Posts: 1711
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:49 pm
Car: 93 Nissan MS13
92 Nissan RMS13

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first of all, you probably are overheating

this is more than likely because you jsut swapped in a bone-dry motor, and then you filled the cooling system.

You just trapped a gang of air in your KA, it happens all the time, literally any time you refill a drained KA24DE.

you need a burp funnel, and then you need to run it for a long time until you get all the air out of the system. you can try shaking the car while you are doing this, it helps speed things up sometimes.

a burp funnel is available everywhereand its jsut a funnel you put in your radiator neck. it makes the fluid level there higher than the motor (thats why that little burp hole on the intake manifold exists) forcing the air to exit there.

happened to me twice, and it'll happen again when i put in the 96 motor

Buddahlilbrother240
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 1:29 pm
Car: 1995 240 sx se

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Im not sure if your motor has a bleader screw if is does you dont need to buy a funnle just unscrew the bleader bolt all the way, fill the radiator untill the fluid comes out of the bleader hole. cap rad, screw in the bleader bolt start car. turn car off after 1-2 min. then repeat steps untill all the air is out. You do have air trapped somewhere! this may take some time , you may find yourself repeating this 5-- or more times until you get all the air out.

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straightedge
Posts: 46
Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2005 5:51 pm
Car: s13 hatch

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yes there is a bleeder screw. its a 10mm bolt on the upper radiator hose neck.

tonynalli
Posts: 1402
Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2004 5:59 am
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just take off teh car and run the car..the and just fill her up and keep filling her...try to have the front of the car raised up..the car will not and cannot overheat with the cap off...so dont worry about that..it has taken me as long as an hour to get all of the pockets out of of a dry motor...so be paitent


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