KA24DE Rebuild

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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Caveit77777
Posts: 434
Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 7:02 pm
Car: 1996 240sx SE

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Recently my ka got a knock and me and my dad were on the edge of buying the ams basic rebuild which had
* Arias 8.8:1 Forged Pistons
* AMS Sportsman Series Connecting Rods
* Clevite Main and Rod Bearings
* Fel-pro Full Engine Gasket Set
and we were going to order 10mm headstuds. Well he was talking to a guy that said the crank might be done too and that would apparently be around another $1500 so I'm sorta stuck here. I just need to figure out a way to see if my crank is done or not and if it would be safe to turbo a rebuilt engine that once had a rod knock?


seang
Posts: 2026
Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:09 pm
Car: Ford Fiesta ST
Location: Michigan

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If I am not mistaken there is an out of round limit for the journal; and it of course bearing clearances need to be in spec, but there are different grades of rod bearings to take care of that. The journals should be free of any pitting, gouges, scratches or other crazy imperfections. How would a new factory crank add up to $1500? Is that just something Chevy guys say to scare unknowing people away from imports? Haha, just kidding. Factory cranks are forged steel, so they are very stong, but I can't say whether or not your is screwed. It just depends on how bad it got thrashed.

rioredstang
Posts: 293
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:47 pm
Car: 1993 240sx SCCA ITS
Location: Chattanooga, TN

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I would start looking for a new machine shop. I would get a new or used stock crank for it. Take them all the parts and let them machine the crank and block to the proper specs. Fitting the rod and main bearing to the crank is critical to not having another problem. I don't know about the clevite bearing. I have ACL race bearing in my motor. The race bearing has a larger steel backing and less copper I think. They didn't beat the babbit material out as easy.


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