KA24DE OVERHEAT. HELP!!!

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
slowfkncar
Posts: 22
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 1:34 pm
Car: 93 fastback

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it overheats while driving not under idle

i dont know where to start??


tjmhillz
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Car: 2001 Lexus IS300 Turbo

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is it leaking coolant? check water pump and therm.. that should be ur problem. and also check coolant if its milky and look like chocolate milk then u have a blown hg..

slowfkncar
Posts: 22
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 1:34 pm
Car: 93 fastback

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coolant and exhaust isnt showing anything bad

thermostat was taken out (i live in hawaii)

possibly water pump??

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Royalspade
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Car: nissan 240sx s13

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if it overheat only when driving and not idle and you therm is good and water pump also ......you should check your fan.

slowfkncar
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Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 1:34 pm
Car: 93 fastback

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Royalspade wrote:if it overheat only when driving and not idle and you therm is good and water pump also ......you should check your fan.
i thought its the other way around?

anyways i did a compression test today

they where all around 130 which is bad.

so if anyone can direct me to a head gasket change write up or something that would be great

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Royalspade
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Car: nissan 240sx s13

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when you compeleted four revolution, they all stayed at 130?

If so you might wanna check for a slip timing belt or chain... or your rings are bad.

if your car over heats when driving and not at idle.... it could be your fan, because you said you thermosat was good rite and also your water pump.

your car should overheat at idle if the thermosat is bad.. do you put just water in your radiator... or you use coolant water may have corrod your water pump, since it contain sulfur.

Guardians91240SX
Posts: 60
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX auto 4 lug
1991 Nissan 240SX SE 5-Spd Sadly it was sold to pay bills
1979 Plymouth Volare 408" Bigblock auto
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Royalspade wrote:when you compeleted four revolution, they all stayed at 130?

If so you might wanna check for a slip timing belt or chain... or your rings are bad.

if your car over heats when driving and not at idle.... it could be your fan, because you said you thermosat was good rite and also your water pump.

your car should overheat at idle if the thermosat is bad.. do you put just water in your radiator... or you use coolant water may have corrod your water pump, since it contain sulfur.
1.) Ka's are chain driven

2.) slowfkncar said he took his t-stat out, duh no wonder its over heating t-stats are there to slow down the water, to allow the air passing through the radiator to effectivly cool down the coolant/water before it returns to the engine, no t-stat no cooling

3.) not sulfur, calcium is the water pump/ cooling system killer

4.) i believe 130 psi is normal across all cylinders, you shouldn't see more than a 5 psi difference between all cylinders

-Mike

slowfkncar
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Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 1:34 pm
Car: 93 fastback

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the 3rd cyl put 145 the first 2 put 130 and the last put down 138. those are all dry btw

well since you guys say thermostat will allow more cooling time for the coolant i guess il try that

1fastka
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 6:10 am
Car: 1995 nissan 240 sx

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just went through the same thing man. i replaced the whol;e coolant system. still blew my engine. bought a new one and had the same problem. there is a bleeder valve beside the thermostat. bleed your coolant good. air=overheat. also check your other stuff.ie fan clutch,pump,and put a thermo back in.also radiator cap.

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Portugese Bend
Posts: 64
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:23 am
Car: 1995 S14, 2003 CT9A
Location: Redondo Beach, CA

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To the original poster, did you ever figure out what it was? I'm curious...

webbmxer
Posts: 189
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Car: 1992 nissan 240sx coupe
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see if coolant is flowing through the large bottom hose. if not, your heater core may be clogged. bypass the heater core by connecting the 2 coolant hoses by the firewall together. its an easy test.

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XRed_SamuraiX
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Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2007 4:53 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX

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Definitly check the coolant it is probably the problem

devil_child
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:36 am

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dude you need a thermostat. It restricts the flow of coolant so that it lingers long enough to pull the heat off the block

too much flow is bad. put a stock thermo in there, if that doesnt help, check for leaks, get a new ECU temp sesor. the one with 2 pins. Then look into fan upgrades. Do you still have the both fans?

DALAZ_68
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Car: 90' 240sx CA18det

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sorry for thread jackin here...

are there 2 sensors on the DE from an s14 that need to be changed to run the engine in a s13

i know theres the front sensor ( green for s14 red for s13s) that needs to be changed... which i believe is the temp sensor...but is there another sensor aswell...i think its called the coolant temp sensor??? any one that can fill me would be a G in my book

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boznuttz
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Factory rebuilt is suggested for compression lower than 150 psi.

Anyway, just make a checklist:Cracks in hoses?Air in system?Fan workign properly?Coolant temp sensor good?Thermostat opening properly?Waterpump leaking?

ETC.......

sideways24d
Posts: 156
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 3:24 pm
Car: 06 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V

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yeah i would check for leaks then bleed the system. just take off the radiator cap and stick a funnel in there with coolant and wait for bubbles to disappear, rev it up to 2 grand and it should be bleed. most common nissan overheating problem, system is not bleed. And yes you need a T stat.

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youngun21a
Posts: 293
Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 7:55 am
Car: 240sx 1993 Automatic

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have same proablem took out the thermostat,and it does not get hot,put it back on can't make half a blok with out overheating.also my bleeder bolt broke and leeking a little coolant,don't know what else to do.but drill it outAny ideas

silpena
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soon to come to s-chasis
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i just covered it with silicone and am dealing with it later on whenever i take off my intake manifold again.

sideways24d
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youngun21a wrote:have same proablem took out the thermostat,and it does not get hot,put it back on can't make half a blok with out overheating.also my bleeder bolt broke and leeking a little coolant,don't know what else to do.but drill it outAny ideas
Dont need the bleeder bolt just run it with the rad cap off with a funnel. Make sure you put the t stat in right. (i know it's stupid but people do it)

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Portugese Bend
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Car: 1995 S14, 2003 CT9A
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^ Just a quick tip on properly installing the thermostat...

The spring side goes towards the engine and make sure the air relief nipple points up to allow trapped air to escape. It's all there in the FSM diagram but it may not be obvious if you're not paying close attention.

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Portugese Bend
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Car: 1995 S14, 2003 CT9A
Location: Redondo Beach, CA

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Like some one else stated, 150 psi is the minimum pressure per cylinder as listed in the FSM. If it's lower than that, then you may have worn piston rings or some thing similiar. There shouldn't be more than 5 psi difference across the cylinders. Since you have more than that it's suggested to get a leak down test on the cylinders to determine where you have a leak in the gasket or where ever. That should help you focus on where the problem areas are.
slowfkncar wrote:the 3rd cyl put 145 the first 2 put 130 and the last put down 138. those are all dry btw

well since you guys say thermostat will allow more cooling time for the coolant i guess il try that

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Portugese Bend
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Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:23 am
Car: 1995 S14, 2003 CT9A
Location: Redondo Beach, CA

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zerothread/159838

I have to correct myself based on the above article found in the tutorial section. Variance can go as high as 14 psi between the cylinders.


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