KA24DE not starting

[rapid roy]

'96 P/U 2.4L

I just replaced my timing chain, tensioner, guides, sprockets. Put everything back together. Started the truck up and it ran really rough. Went to adjust the timing and distributer was maxed out. Realized I hadn't lined up the oil pump correctly when I installed it (oops),corrected that.

Then I started the truck again and it ran for about 20 seconds and stalled out (seemed like it was being choked off) and wont start again. Just to specify... it is turning over.

I am getting fuel on the plugs, the plugs are sparking. So I thought compression. (I was worried somehow I bent a valve) Checked compression: 135 to 150 in all 4 cyls. I assume that means valves, head gasket are good.

Visually looked for vacuum lines cracked, etc, didn't find anything. Not too sure how else to check when its not running.

Any ideas? I'm stuck.

Modified by rapid roy at 3:39 PM 1/19/2009
Modified by rapid roy at 3:41 PM 1/19/2009

[rapid roy]

Just went out and messed with it again. If i let it crank for 20+ seconds it will fire up and run but it idles really low, maybe 400rpm, and dies out after about 10 seconds. It seems more like an airflow problem than just having the idle set too low. If i give it a little gas it does not affect anything, wont rev any higher.

I notice when I crank it over, it seems like the speed it is turning over will get a little faster, then a little slower again. Usually it will get a little faster right before it starts. And yes I did check the battery voltage. It was @ 12.4V. Charged to 13+ and drained it back down to 12.5 by cranking it so much. Didn't make any difference with a full charge.

Any ideas?

[rapid roy]

Anybody have an idea?

What would the symptoms be if the chain had jumped a link and the valve timing was just a little off? Would I still get good compression? I don't have the time right now to pull it apart and re-check the chain so I am trying to find a way to check that with the engine assembled.

Any inputs would be appreciated...-Roy

[navysnail]

are you sure your plugs are sparking in the right order after you replaced your distributor?

[rapid roy]

Yes, i never pulled the plug wires off the cap and I made sure that the rotor was pointing to the #1 cyl. Thats how I realized my oil pump wasn't in right the first time I started it. The rotor was near the #1 contact with the engine at TDC but wasn't exactly where it should have been.

The crank - to - dizzy timing seems right. The only thing I can think is that either the chain jumped and the valves aren't timed right anymore or somehow a valve got bent. But i dont know how to go about checking that without pulling it apart again. Guess I'm going to be doing that this weekend.

[navysnail]

with those compression numbers i can tell you that your valves are not bent and the timing is still good on the valves. use a timing light to see when the plugs are firing.

[rapid roy]

Couldn't use the timing light, wasn't running long enough. Pulled out the oil pump again and moved a couple teeth. Now the truck starts easily, runs a little rough (driveable) and revs up good. Checked the timing with the light and it is 180deg off (timing marks are 180 degrees away from pin) from where it should be. The #4 is firing at what would be the correct timing mark for the #1.

What does that mean? Is the crank position sensor in the dizzy bad?

Thanks for all your input so far - Roy
Modified by rapid roy at 9:13 PM 1/26/2009

[navysnail]

it really sounds like you have your oil pump in wrong if your firing at 180 degrees, does it sound like its running on two cylinders?

[rapid roy]

Seems to be firing on all 4 cyls. Runs like the timing is just a tiny bit off. I move the distributor but can't get it to run real smooth like it should. This is the best I can get it to run.

I don't understand what could cause the ignition timing could be 180 off. I have never seen that before. If I pulled the oil pump and moved it 180, wouldn't it be firing on exhaust strokes and not run at all?

[40oz]

i have the same problem with my 240. i put in a newer dizzy, realigned crankshaft so the pin is at TDC, as well as the rotor facing #1 cylinder. it ran completely fine before i took the distributor out. now it won't turn over, it turned over a bit once but now it sounds like its struggling to get turned over. it is trying to turn over though. please help, i need to get it running again and RAPID ROY i hope your problem is fixed or close to it

[rapid roy]

40 - If all you did was swap the distributor than there should not be any alignment issue since the dizzy shaft is keyed to fit into the oil pump shaft. It should not matter where your crank is because the dizzy will only fit in one way (if thats all you took off).

Re-check all distrubutor connections first. Then...If you removed your plug wires, I would check that you re-attached them to the dizzy on the correct points. The firing order should be 1,3,4,2. Check a manual to ensure where the #1 contact should be and the rotor spins counter-clockwise from there.

If your plug wires are correct then maybe try loosening the 2 dizzy hold-down bolts and move the dizzy one way or the other to change the timing a little... I really dont see this as a fix but its worth a shot. If you were even close on your timing then it should start, maybe just run a little rough.

OK, heres one last resort idea... I believe my truck may be set up 180 degrees off. The contact on the dizzy that the book shows to be the #1 is actually wired to the #4 on my truck. and i have it running good now. Maybe if you verify your plug wire are correct and still get nothing, try rotating your plug wires 2 spots and try again.

good luck, keep me posted. - roy

[rapid roy]

I discovered that the vacuum line that goes to the black box on the top left of the timing cover didn't get hooked up. With everything assembled, that vacuum line is blocked by the power steering pump and I didn't even see it to check it.

Engine runs good again and timing marks are where they should be.

I don't really understand how vacuum effects the ignition timing. If somebody could explain that would be awesome!

Thanks, Roy