well right now its dropping the 3rd cyl when it gets close to being warm.. ill try it and see what happens when its cooldel82 wrote:Don't suppose you bothered to actually check the function of the EGR valve when you got the code, did ya? You can do it with a vacuum pump, just hook it to the dashpot on the EGR valve and pump it up to about 12 inches of vacuum, it should almost kill the engine, if not kill it outright. If it doesn't really change the idle, you'll need to replace the valve.
they are iridium so no need to gap. supposed to be at 180 psi but it was 210 psi throttle closed and 230 open. i dropped it off at nissan today. hopefully its something simple. i just didnt have time to deal with it right now. hate spending that much money but itll be good to know what is wrong exactly lol.1KleenS13 wrote:Good point for checking the EGR. What are your plugs gapped at? What CR is the motor?
Its plausible, but its not actually the whole assembly, they just have to replace it as a unit, if you were wonderingbimmer96 wrote:so the dealer said it was the the whole distributor assembly and its like 800$ to replace it....
MSD probably makes a kit for it. I had a supra with a MSD 6A on it awhile back, and I had to buy an extra bit with it so my tach would still work. If you're thinking of putting an ICU on it though, replace the coil while you're at it, even if it doesn't come with the kit. Particularly with MSD, cutting the available coil charge time in thirds puts a strain on the coil. I got to test mine with some school equipment, and I was losing almost half of my spark power just cruising at 60mph with the MSD setup, before I picked up a new coil. Causes some running issues, hesitation, etc.bimmer96 wrote:injectors spec out... is there a way to run a obd1 dizzy with a msd coil setup?