KA24DE: Missing/Hesitation After EGR & Air Conditioning Removal

[LSEGHATCH]

I didn't remove the complete EGR system, just the black box/charcoal canister that connects to the intake and all hoseing & the one connector. I did however remove everything but the radiator for the air conditioning.

I noticed today that the engine misses while on the throttle light, cruiseing I guess you could call it. I'll get up to speed and then it will start to miss and hesitate. It didn't do this before and all vaccume lines are plugged so there shouldn't be a leak.

Pulled the plug and it seems like the second plug in from the front wasn't firing and during the process the cheapo plug wires all broke.
Modified by LSEGHATCH at 1:04 PM 5/7/2007

[LSEGHATCH]

Bought quality plug wires and it is still missing. However I remembered that I filled up a complete tank of Kwik Trips 10% ethanol 89 or 90 octane fuel. Could this be the culprit? I didn't put E85 in but instead their 10% ethanol blend.

I will add some higher octane fuel from mobile when the tank starts to go down and see what happens from there. Kwik Trip has a "pay for you tank of gas" if you have problems with their fuel and I wouldn't mind getting my $40 back.

[Soravia]

I have my pip back to EGR cut and blocked off as well. It's still having the same issues. I ordered an EGR block off plate off ebay from VA. It should be here Friday.

[LSEGHATCH]

?? So you removed just the canister as I did and are haveing problems with missing? I'll just throw it back in if that is what's causing it. I have the metal EGR pipe crimped off.

[ka-t747]

Check this out. >>>>> http://www.ka-t.org <<<<<is a great site.

maybe its missing and firing because your EGR goes all the way around the back and connects to your bottom portion of the intake "Mani".It will look like a rusted alien triangle, lol that piece then has a regulator on it and some vacuums. the metal pipe attatched to it, goes behind the engine to your Exhuast "mani". From there it goes into that Tube that u said u crimped down and into your "black charcoal" box, which is i guess the intake return.

maybe u just have to take off the whole system. not just part of it.

[Soravia]

Yeah, that's what I'm trying to do. I only removed the charcol thing and cut the pipe going back to the unit on top of intake manifold. Now I'm going to remove the unit on top of intake manifold. The engine would mis like time to time on acceleration as if the firing wasn't good enough on some cylinders. It would fire down the exhaust more often as well. But it does pick and drive the car. I'll give a report soon.

[jaredkadrft]

I have the sohc ka and I removed the box and lower piping but I left the top unscaved and used a peice of the metal vacuum tubing and ran them into each other..... No problems

[jaredkadrft]

edit: top piping i left attached

[Soravia]

Check my radiator leak thread.

[LSEGHATCH]

SORAVIA: did you get the block off plate installed?

[Soravia]

No. the third bolt is still PITA. Instead I removed the rest of the system, blocked them and blocked everything that goes into that last piece including the pipe cut off from the exhaust.

My engine runs OK but I'm going to replace the spark-plugs (new but cheap) with $10 Bosch plugs to make sure the issues is not from spark plugs.

Tomorrow evening I'll have an opening at the warehouse to do my rust job. I'll try with their tools and see if it comes out.

[Soravia]

I couldn't get to the ERG unit this evening. I was busy with pulling off the rear bumper and never got it done.

But I DID fixed the hiccups.I patched up all the vaccume hoses (including one under the throttle body) but leaving the large one going to the Air-Intake pipe. The metal pipe coming from the back of the engine was not crimped. I cut it while taking out the engine and now all I did was taped it up so air can't go in. I did the same to the hole on the Air-Intake pipe after the canister next to the batter was removed.After that all I did was set the spark-plugs to wide gaps, which made things worse. Mine are cheap plugs so I had to set them closer to fire properly.Check out my spark plug thread.
Modified by Soravia at 4:11 PM 5/17/2007

[formalyDSM]

I couldn't get to the ERG unit this evening. I was busy with pulling off the rear bumper and never got it done.

But I DID fixed the hiccups.I patched up all the vaccume hoses (including one under the throttle body) but leaving the large one going to the Air-Intake pipe. The metal pipe coming from the back of the engine was not crimped. I cut it while taking out the engine and now all I did was taped it up so air can't go in. I did the same to the hole on the Air-Intake pipe after the canister next to the batter was removed.After that all I did was set the spark-plugs to wide gaps, which made things worse. Mine are cheap plugs so I had to set them closer to fire properly.Check out my spark plug thread.

Modified by Soravia at 4:11 PM 5/17/2007

so your saying you got rid of you egr valve and just pulged all the vacume lines and it worked?

[Soravia]

Pretty much.But only one issue left, the fuel is running rich.I think it's leading to the car not starting later because the spark-plugs get covered by soot from un-burnt oil.

I'll attempt to bypass MAF and see adding extra air (that ECU can't detect) will help. Won't see the results immediately since it took 2-3 hundred miles for the previous DENSO plugs to get dirty, the ones inside are BOSCH Platinum 4+ and fires much stronger.
Modified by Soravia at 7:33 PM 5/21/2007

[formalyDSM]

cuz the problem i'm haveing now is the car will start but then die 3 seconds later. it only stays running if i tap the gas lightly. but if i let off or mash it to the floor it dies. do you know what is wrong?

[Soravia]

I think you have enough fuel since it starts, maybe it has to do with Air/MAF??Also one thing to look is Spark-Plugs, Wires and lube on them. It seems to be important to have good and secure contact with Ignition coil, Distributor and Plugs. I used Boot-Protector and also adjusted the wire-tips so that they stay firm inside the connectors.Don't torque the plugs too tight, just a bit seems to be enough.

[Soravia]

heads-up, I got some new info.

According to NGK FAQ here http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/t...ry=US

The carbon (fuel) deposit may have been caused by the Spark-plug itself. Hot Plugs fire more easily than Normal and Cold Plugs fire less than Normal which may lead to un-burnt fuel deposits.

I don't know if the new BOSCH Platinum4+ are cold, hot or normal. Also the open-tip like what I have now is a little hotter than non-open tip.

Hot/Cold is not about the transfer of electricity itself but rather how soon the firing will happen.

Quote »Many mechanics attempt to "chase" tuning by changing spark plug heat ranges.The real answer is to adjust air/fuel mixtures by rejetting in an effort to put more air back into the engine.[/quote]

[Soravia]

I saw some smoke when I started the car this morning but couldn't see any this evening after work.

I made some changes to the vaccume hose plugs.

Here's the pic.

[ADF932]

The Connection with the blue tape on it , if there oil coming out of there then you got blow by , its usaully caused when you piston rings are blown.

[nismoracingsx]

shouldn't block off your pcv system anyways, thats air your computer is adjusting for, so if u block it off, wouldn't u start running kinda rich? the maf wouldn't notice u blocking it off since the sensor is farther down the pipe. if ur that worried about oil coming through the pcv then you can always instal in inline air compressor filter (the small ones u can buy at lowes for like 15.00)