ka24de is over heating tried everything???

[nismo_power]

okay so i replaced the thermostat and water pump and got a 2 row mishimoto rad with 2 12in fans...topped everything off and jacked the car up and open the bleeder valve and turned the heater on max...there is no air in the system anymore cause did this like 4-5 times now...

at idel the car will heat up and not over heat but as soon as i drive it then it will over heat???so i check the rad hoses and the top one is super hot and the bottom one is still cold???i take the thermostat out and boil water to 190* and put the thermostat in and it opens up no problem...what is causing the thermostat to not open when i put it in the car???

i read a thread about cutting the jiggle valve off and drilling a slightly bigger hole there and i tried it but still nothing???

ran the car without the thermostat and it runs fine...but i dont think its safe for me to run my car like that...any help, thanks...

[DevilMB3017]

The bleeder valve? All I've done to get air out of the system is pop the rad cap and it will bubble over with air coming out...and pour in more fluid until it doesn't do anymore.

Sounds like you still have air in your system.

Or if it really runs fine with the thermo out, maybe something is wrong with it? Try a new one (should be pretty cheap at AutoZone/PepBoys/etc) or check to make sure it's installed the right direction.

[nismo_power]

i just bought this thermostat and im sure its installed correct...spring side in the engine, jiggle valve on top...im sure there is no air in the system...

[esahuque]

...im sure there is no air in the system...

If you boiled it and it opened then that would be the only reason why the thermostat's not opening in the car, I guarantee you that you have air stuck behind the thermostat.

[nismo_power]

i dont think there is air because when you touch the thermostat housing it is hot and when i pull the thermostat housing with the thermostat still in the engine, then when i pull the thermostat hot water just starts to pour out...

i have read several post on how to bleed it and have tried most of them many, many times to make sure there is no more air...im sure there is not any air in the system...and if there is there is, its not that much to the point the thermostat will not open....it has to something else but i have no idea...

[jeff420]

im willing to bet your headgasket it bad. mine was doing the same ezact thing. i could let it idle for an hour and it wouldnt overheat but when i drove it it would overheat in 30-45 minutes. when i ended up tearing the engine apart i found that there was carbon buildup between the headgasket and the head. the head gasket had been squished to where the valves must have hit it slightly, diddnt mess anything up valve wise. when i did compression tests nothing looked out of whack.

[spank044]

Is it an auto? If it is then if your torque converter is slipping it will cause your cooler to boil the coolant. I've seen it quite a few times as a tech. Also the head gasket could be a possibility. Next time your engine is running squeeze the inlet hose and and feel how hard it is. If it is rock solid then it could be the HG. Another thing to check, pull your block drain plug out and see if your block is full of crud.

[pancho y onions]

Your thermostat may still be bad. Ive had a couple people buy thermostats brand new and its still bad. Take out the thermostat and run the car with out it. If it stays cool then you bought a bad thermostat. I work at autozone and we do sometimes sell bad thermostats.

[nismo_power]

where is the block plug for the coolant located???heard of this but i have no idea where it is located...hope this is the problem, because i tried everything but this...also how do i flush this...

so even if its the head gasket the compression #'s will still be good???because my compression #'s are 180 all across...

its a 5 speed...

[jeff420]

mine were 180 across too. i couldnt figure it out until i cracked the engine apart and noticed the deformed headgasket and a buildup of carbon that had deformed my headgasket.

heres what i did to flush my block, d/c both radiaor hoses, take out the thermostat and get out the water hose. i got alot of rusty crap out. when everythings clean put it all back together and fill it up with the front end jacked up. get a funnel or cut open a coke bottle and use electrical tape to seal it in the radiator filler. i used a funnel and wrapped the tape around the tip of the funnel to use as a gasket. use your creativity. fill it up and let it run with the heater full blast. make sure you keep water in the funnel. squeeze all hoses. thats how i bled my coolant system and it worked fine.

so lin other words its either the headgakset or not getting all the air bubbles out (it can be a *****) obviously try flushing the block first. good luck

[sk8punk235]

Just to chyme in...I have a 93 KA all stock that has the same problem, It overheated once and then it did it all the time after that. I have an automatic and I used to deliver pizzas, so the transmission is kinda bad.... so i would bet it has something to do with the auto or more than for sure its the headgasket.

[DevilMB3017]

OP - In your first post you mention a bleeder valve? The only way I've ever gotten air out of a coolant system is when the radiator cap. Is that what your talking about? I bet you still have air in your system.

[nismo_power]

no, there is a ten mm nut right next to where the top radiator hose goes into the engine...

so where is the bolt on the block to flush the block out???

[DevilMB3017]

That isn't how I've ever gotten air out of a coolant system...

Take the cap off the top of the radiator, turn the car one with the heat on all the way. As your car warms up, the coolant will flow and the radiator will bubble. Some coolant may come out and go all over the place. As it happens it'll settle back down. Throw some more coolant in it until it stops bubbling is at a high enough point. Turn the car off, wait a little bit, and put the cap back on. And then start driving.

[spank044]

The block drain is before the exhaust manifold behind the ps pump if you still have one. To flush it take off both rad hoses and take out the t-stat. Then put your garden hose in the top hose and tighten the hose clamp. Turn your hose on high and let it run until clean water is coming out of both the lower rad hose and block plug. If you have a lot of rust in the water then there is a product made by Prestone called Super Rad Flush. Then there is also a sealer product to coat the inside of the block. After you do that then you can go buy 2 gallons of antifreeze and put one and a half gallons coolant and one and half gallons of water. The 10mm bolt with the copper washer is the bleeder for the system.

When you checked the compression, did you leave all 4 plugs out. Also hook up your compression tester to a air compressor and you it as a leak down test. Take off the rad cap and watch for bubbles.

[nismo_power]

wait how do i use the compressor tester as a leak down tester???and how will i know what leaking???

[jeff420]

your probably letting air in using the bleeder valve. seriously though you need to re read all the posts in this thread, we have given you plenty of info on how to fix/diagnose the problem.

[Darchangl]

Did you swap your engine? if so there is a step by step in the nissan fsm that will tell you how to do it.. the reason i know is bc i am having the same problem and i still havent gotten mine fixed. I am gonna try the manual way next..(would have already done it but its very confusing.. feel free to clarify on it if you know what im talkin about)

[WDRacing]

That isn't how I've ever gotten air out of a coolant system...

Take the cap off the top of the radiator, turn the car one with the heat on all the way. As your car warms up, the coolant will flow and the radiator will bubble. Some coolant may come out and go all over the place. As it happens it'll settle back down. Throw some more coolant in it until it stops bubbling is at a high enough point. Turn the car off, wait a little bit, and put the cap back on. And then start driving.

I also use this method...

[s13rb25det]

check your fanss make sure they are blowing air though the rad, and not pushing it away from it.

[drftman]

this happens to everyone with 240's including me i just drive with no thermostat i got tired of buying them becase of them going bad.

[DevilMB3017]

this happens to everyone with 240's including me i just drive with no thermostat i got tired of buying them becase of them going bad.

This is horribly wrong. Driving without a thermostat can cause problems from not letting your car get up to operating temps and constantly having a lot of coolant flowing. Please do not listen to this advice. I have never had a problem with buying good thermostats.

[kouki_hmongster]

This is horribly wrong. Driving without a thermostat can cause problems from not letting your car get up to operating temps and constantly having a lot of coolant flowing. Please do not listen to this advice. I have never had a problem with buying good thermostats.

honestly i dont see any problem in this besides warming up a little slow but since i've been turbod even w/out a thermostat the car warms up pretty fast and i have a koyoracing rad. And i'm talking about cold mornings. i also have a old 83 toyota pickup(300k miles) w/ out thermostat and been going on w/ out thermostat forever now w/ out a problem.

But maybe its because i live in CA and it doesnt get to the point where it would snow. maybe once in a very long time, but not common where i live.