Yep got the 2 dowels, cleaned the block multiple times with ignition cleaner and razor blade and a plastic razor blade carefully. Chased the threads and they are super clean. Getting some last few items and starting the assemble everything. Thanks guysPapaSmurf2k3 wrote:There should be dowels in the block to ensure the head lines up correctly too.
After that, you'll need to re-install your cams and timing chain.
I have those videos. They are the disassemble only, I actually asked the guy if he had any assembly videos. Either way I have the head on the block now and I'm gonna work on the timing this coming weekend. The marks on the cams and sprockets as well as the position of the cam lobes is what I'll be working on.waxdnuggz wrote:Youtube has a couple rebuild vids that are very good best one I found is a 2 part vid and the guy talks about previous owner taking timing guides out already and his camera batt dying. Gl!
Very cool! Thank you man, this helps.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:This should help!
http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/CA ... CTIONS.PDF










We'll see when I go to start it. Hopefully it doesn't blow up on me lolPapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Looks like you've got it under control!
Oh man if I could tell you how many times I have turned it by hand... I'm used to non interference motors but i put the chain and cam gears all in line with the marks, I put the cams in the outward position. I turned it with my brother and watched the first piston and verified that as the piston moves up and down the valves aren't gonna get crunched. When I did this, I felt no binding at all so I should be good hopefully. I'm assuming you had this happen to you? Lol that sucks man.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Top Gear Top Tip - crank it over by hand first (preferibly with the plugs out so it is easier). If you have any issues, you'll be glad you didn't smash the piston into the valves with the full force of the starter
ASK ME HOW I KNOW!!!!
Kinda was l leaning that way but wanted to check with you guys. I followed the FSM steps for sequence in tightening and they are torque to yield so I'll leave it alone. Plus I did not see that the FSM said anywhere to retighten.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:I wouldn't touch it.