KA24DE Fresh Rebuild, Runs Terribly.

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
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StryfeS13
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Location: Fresno, CA

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So to sum this up, my motor runs terribly.

It is freshly rebuilt, new cylinder head, new pistons, new rings, etc etc etc.

It shakes around violently like it is running on 2-3 cylinders but it is running on all four. When you rev it, the rpms go up at an extremely slow rate, and sometimes when you give it gas it dies. Even the littlest amount of gas can kill it. I've cleaned the MAF sensor, I've set timing to 20BTDC with a timing light, I've made sure it has spark to all four cylinders, the spark plugs are new, and the compression on all cylinders is 155 or higher.

What on earth is going on....? I miss my 240


Klits562
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When you say 155 or higher how much higher? You need to be within a few psi of each other to have a smooth running motor.You need to give us all your compression numbers for each cylinder.make sure your iacv is set right also.And how old are your motor mounts? Can you rock your motor when its off?

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StryfeS13
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Cylinder 1 = 160Cylinder 2 = 165Cylinder 3 = 160Cylinder 4 = 170

My IACV is the screw which adjusts idle correct? It is set exactly as a guide on here says, which is 650 RPM at idle.

They are old, but no, I can not shake my motor when it is off. Not at all.

NISSAN240SX12
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Car: 1993 NISSAN 240SX SE COUPE
1991 Toyota Supra
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sounds like the timing is off. do you have a timing light. make sure the timing is set to 20 degs.

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StryfeS13
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I set the timing to 20 BTDC with a timing light...

maybe it is my cams? I set them to TDC before rebuilding. TDC is the 2 front lobes of each cam facing outward right?

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sx moneypit
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Sounds like a missfire issue to me .Have you checked to see how the injectors are firing?

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needmorenissan
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ya man just check ur injectors check each spark plug after u take out every spark plug wire and run the car for 15 secs then check each spark plug if its getting fuel, there should be a fuel smell on every spark plug if theres not youve got a problem or check ur injectors resistance with an ohmeter or dvom

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KG300ZXTT
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I actual have a similar problem

Good spark new injectors well everything is new or clean and checked car runs like its misfiring (runs like a it has cams) and runs rich timming was checked set about 20 times and nothing. There is a interesting situation when I cold start the car it goes to 2000rpm and doesn't misfire then it drops and it misfires sometimes it idles a t 1500 than 1000 or 750 or 550. The car acts different almost every day sometimes its slow as f***, or it shake like hell, runes OK and is quiet or runs so rich makes weird vibrations and is extremely loud but this is not consistent or has no patterns. Its been like 4 months and I replaced inspected checked everything still cant figure it out. I know a lot of 240 geeks and everyone is scratching there heads. No codes and all the outputs from all sensors are good. Lets see how good you guys are with diagnosing this problem based on the info.

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StryfeS13
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Well check this out....

I had to set my rotor in my distributor to spark plug #4 to even see timing marks on the crank pulley. So this means I am 180 out, correct?

So I need to make my cams so the two back lobes are facing outwards, instead of the two front lobes, and then set my distributor rotor to number 1 plug? Should this cure my problems..? Could that be why the injectors may be firing incorrectly?

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StryfeS13
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Okay so I got it running. It runs perfect, seems slow cause I have it set on stock 20BTDC timing, but as soon as I smog it, I'm advancing that.

But, a few questions. There is a high pitched whistling sound, sounds like when you get a wrapper and make it whistle (if you know what I mean)...So I tightened down my header, and checked everything, and sometimes it still happens. What is that?

And also, my ECU is throwing up the EGR malfunction code, but I know my EGR works, because it worked before the rebuild, and I can feel suction from the EGR when I take the vac hose off. There also seems to be a mysterious large vacuum leak I can't seem to find, also....

I always swore to myself I'd go KA-T but I'm changing my mind about that very quickly.

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sx moneypit
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The whistling noise is probably your vacuum leak you are talking about.You might want to check your EGR valve gasket and make sure it didn't slip out of position.

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StryfeS13
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sx moneypit wrote:The whistling noise is probably your vacuum leak you are talking about.You might want to check your EGR valve gasket and make sure it didn't slip out of position.
I'll check it out and update afterward.

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StryfeS13
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Checked EGR, gasket is fine, put some silicone around the housing just for peace of mind...cleared ECU codes, re checked them, and now all I get is 34, which is knock sensor.

Before resetting it I had, 14, 32, 33, 34, and 35.

Now lets just hope they don't come back up...

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servili007
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StryfeS13 wrote:Checked EGR, gasket is fine, put some silicone around the housing just for peace of mind...cleared ECU codes, re checked them, and now all I get is 34, which is knock sensor.

Before resetting it I had, 14, 32, 33, 34, and 35.

Now lets just hope they don't come back up...
Oh man I remember when my 97 altima (same engine) started throwing those codes, but they came back more and more frequently (first it stopped for a month, then a few weeks, then i had to do it weekly). Months later it started stalling when i came to a stop, but with any luck you wont get em back :P

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StryfeS13
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servili007 wrote:
Oh man I remember when my 97 altima (same engine) started throwing those codes, but they came back more and more frequently (first it stopped for a month, then a few weeks, then i had to do it weekly). Months later it started stalling when i came to a stop, but with any luck you wont get em back :P
Oh wow, that's just great. lol.

Question, is my distributor off a tooth if I had to turn it all the way clockwise as far as it would go just to get it to 20 btdc?

NISSAN240SX12
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StryfeS13 wrote:Well check this out....

I had to set my rotor in my distributor to spark plug #4 to even see timing marks on the crank pulley. So this means I am 180 out, correct?

So I need to make my cams so the two back lobes are facing outwards, instead of the two front lobes, and then set my distributor rotor to number 1 plug? Should this cure my problems..? Could that be why the injectors may be firing incorrectly?
you may have had your engine set at a combustion stroke when setting the timing.

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StryfeS13
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NISSAN240SX12 wrote:
you may have had your engine set at a combustion stroke when setting the timing.
Would this affect performance?

And how do I set compression stroke..? Turn crank until the #2 mark on the crank pulley lines up with the pointer?

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sx moneypit
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Make it easy on yourself.Go to the 240tech page section ,they have a good writeup on setting the distributor correctly.

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StryfeS13
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sx moneypit wrote:Make it easy on yourself.Go to the 240tech page section ,they have a good writeup on setting the distributor correctly.
I checked it. And the #1 spark plug lines up perfectly with the rotor. But I still have to turn the distributor fully clockwise to even get it close to 20 BTDC.

Is it a few teeth off?

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ZOOMIGUEL
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check my video. on my post.

sounds similar.

but also sounds like its off a tooth.

my link:

zerothread?id=484018

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StryfeS13
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
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Fixed the distributor. It was 1 tooth off.

My engine is extremely loud, like it ticks like crazy. This is because I bought a new cylinder head and just dropped my cams in, I'm guessing. I think I need to get valve shims or whatever. But...I also noticed I FORGOT TO PUT THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER BACK IN. Yes, I COMPLETELY forgot. Could this be the cause of the ticking? Maybe it's not my valves. Anywho, I'll be putting it back in tomorrow.

Also, if anyone knows what sizes the valve cover bolts are for an s13, please let me know...


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sx moneypit
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First, you need to put the tensioner in. Also when you put the cams in,did you put the lash adjusters(or lifters) and the shims in?Some ticking is to be expected until the lifters get primed up.

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StryfeS13
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Tensioner is now in, sound is now gone.

Need some input, do you guys think my car will pass smog with the EGR temp sensor not working? (ecu code 35)

I don't know why it isn't working, because it worked before the rebuild. It is plugged in, as far as I know. It's the long plug in between cylinders 3 and 4 on the intake manifold right?


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