I am having a heck of a time trying to install a pilot bushing. When i put my finger in the crank i feel one small drop off and then a liitle further back one small step up. When i removed the trasmission it looked like there was no bushing installed. So i am asking about the inside of the shaft cause i am wondering if there is a bushing installed and it is just ground down. i have stuck a pb pulling in there several times and it just slips out. I just need to know if that first drop off is normal before i do anything drastic and if it is normal what do you do when freezing the new bushing doesnt help.

crank?..you post is slighty confusing..can ya post a pic up so we can see what your talkin about.

When i stick my finger in the hole below there is a small step down maybe like 4 sheets of paper thick. you can see it in the pic and if you look close further back there is a step up.



This is another view of the step down inside the shaft



And in the picture below you can see some nasty collisions when trying to insert the new bushing. its copper and was frozen using dry ice for over 12 hours so it should just slide in. after 20 minutes of rubber mallet i grabbed a regular hammer and promptly mushroomed it as you can see.



so what i need to know if what i am looking at is a very very thin bushing still in the shaft? and if it isnt is there a better way to get the new bushing in without it coliding.

I also dont know if the car was ever automatic and the step down could possibly be the remaineder of the automatic bearings outer race. if the shaft is supose to be the same until i get to the step up (stop) in the rear of the cavity then i know i have to remove whatever is in there at the front. However, i am afriad to do too much to it cause it is hard to tell if it is part of the shaft or if it is something stuck in there.

Just use a roller bearing when you put it back together. I think Nismo sells them.?.?.?

GODCHSR wrote:Just use a roller bearing when you put it back together. I think Nismo sells them.?.?.?

I am not sure that is going to solve my problem cause im pretty sure the nismo bearing is the same diamiter as the oem bushing. If what is in there is an outer race of an automatic bearing and not part of the shaft then nothing i try is going to work. Which is what i need to know before I go hardcore with a bearing puller or start cutting away at it.
Modified by xxmexx at 3:19 PM 5/30/2009

someone correct me if they know i'm wrong but i think what you are looking at is an A/T adapter bearing on the inside and outside it looks ribbed it looks like a hollow cylinder cut in half. to get it out you need a pilot bushing remover tool and slide hammer. you can get it at advance auto or something.

silvia s14.5 rb25det wrote:someone correct me if they know i'm wrong but i think what you are looking at is an A/T adapter bearing on the inside and outside it looks ribbed it looks like a hollow cylinder cut in half. to get it out you need a pilot bushing remover tool and slide hammer. you can get it at advance auto or something.

thats what i was thinking and i have taken the puller and slide hammer to it but only lightly because i am not sure. I had no time to mess with it today but i will put sometime into it tomorrow moving slowly unless I can get a positive.

The collisions i have gotten from the 2 bushings i tried to insert make me think it isnt supose to be there.

After banging at it with a pilot bearing puller for an hour i decided to pull the flywheel off.

after looking at this thread zerothread/181139

I think whoever swapped it to manual left the auto bearing in. I ran out of time today but will continue this game tomorrow. Will post pics for conformation later.
Modified by xxmexx at 5:09 PM 5/31/2009

Automatic bearing adapter was the problem. Thanks to all who helped.

a pilot bearing puller did not get the job done. I thought about dremeling it out but decided that was too messy. I found a wrench in the harware store that was a combination channel lock / pipe wrench. I connected a chain from a flywheel bolt to a transmission bolt so the crank would not turn. I grabed the A/T bearing adapter with my new wrench and wrenched down on it till it turned freely inside the crank . I stuck the pilot bearing puller back in and wrenched it open with a socket and then used the slide hammer and it poped right out. Took about 5 minutes.

Car is back up and running with a nice new clutch and the correct bushing for the application

Cool man, nice to hear you got out ok. Glad to help man.I'll probably do the same thing you did when i do my 5-speed swap.I've seen some of those tools for this job and they don't really look like they would work that easily. not to say it wouldn't work but it is apparently a pain in the a**.

I will post a pic of the wrench i used later when i get home. It was really simple and much faster than cutting it out.

xxmexx wrote:Automatic bearing adapter was the problem. Thanks to all who helped.

a pilot bearing puller did not get the job done. I thought about dremeling it out but decided that was too messy. I found a wrench in the harware store that was a combination channel lock / pipe wrench. I connected a chain from a flywheel bolt to a transmission bolt so the crank would not turn. I grabed the A/T bearing adapter with my new wrench and wrenched down on it till it turned freely inside the crank . I stuck the pilot bearing puller back in and wrenched it open with a socket and then used the slide hammer and it poped right out. Took about 5 minutes.

Car is back up and running with a nice new clutch and the correct bushing for the application

What did you use to install the new pilot bushing? I don't wanna mash mine up and I feel like it's having resistance. I was just putting a socket in it and a rubber mallet. But I already torqued down my flywheel.