KA24DE crank pulley diameter

[float_6969]

I'm trying to put the AC back into my CA18 swapped S14. I can't find a CA AC compressor anywhere, so I was planning on just building an adapter to let me use the KA-DE bracket and pump. I'm worried that the diameter of the CA AC compressor drive on the crank pulley is a different size than the KA, and so the AC will be way over/under driven. Can someone give me a rough measurement of the diameter of the AC drive on the crank pulley of their KA-DE?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I don't think my calipers go that big

[centralcoaster33]

I measured 5 and an 1/8th inches for the AC part of the pulley last night. Thanks to Papa Smurf's post reminding me I finally got around to doing this. Meant to since Monday. Good luck.

PS - is this AC for the same car that has all the effort and work put into converting your power steering from parasitic to electric? Why would you have AC in a car like that? I've not bothered to remove my power steering before but I very quickly ditch the AC when I get a car. What's your logic? Is it freaking hot where you're at and AC delete is not an option? Ooh, why not use that other electric pump you have for the AC compressor?! The one with the separate control board or whatever I was reading about. No parasites!

[centralcoaster33]

That is diameter, top of ribs, without a belt on it (no AC here) and it is +/- 1/8th inch I'd say.

[float_6969]

I measured 5 and an 1/8th inches for the AC part of the pulley last night. Thanks to Papa Smurf's post reminding me I finally got around to doing this. Meant to since Monday. Good luck.

PS - is this AC for the same car that has all the effort and work put into converting your power steering from parasitic to electric? Why would you have AC in a car like that? I've not bothered to remove my power steering before but I very quickly ditch the AC when I get a car. What's your logic? Is it freaking hot where you're at and AC delete is not an option? Ooh, why not use that other electric pump you have for the AC compressor?! The one with the separate control board or whatever I was reading about. No parasites!

Thanks for the measurement, I don't need it exact, the +/- 1/8" is close enough.

Yes, it's for the same car that I had to go to the EHPS system for. I did that for the reasons of space, not parasitic losses. I have a liquid to air intercooler, and I have the intercooler mounted between the radiator and the engine to keep the piping as short as possible. The only way to mount puller e-fans was to run a Ross Race Harmonic Dampener that only has one pulley for the alternator and water pump. I only needed to ditch one pulley, so the plan has always been to add the A/C pulley back on there. My original plan was to use a CA bracket and compressor, but I've since discovered that there is not an equivalent CA18 AC compressor in the US. So I'd either have to buy something used or pay crazy money to try and get a new one imported. So I decided to build an adapter plate and run the S14 compressor instead. As for why I'm keeping it, I'm in Kansas at the summers can be brutal sometimes. The year before last, we had 3 weeks straight of triple digit highs. It's normal to get at least one week of highs in the triple digits, and then upper 90's for most of the summer. And ultimately, this is a street car, not a race car. Full interior, stereo system, power everything, cruise, etc. I don't even really care about all out power. If I did, I wouldn't have bothered to put power steering back on it. I would have just pulled the rack and packed it in grease.

As for electric AC, I actually looked into that, and then gave up on it. Those electric compressors they sell supposedly won't really keep the car cool. They're not designed for automotive cooling, but rather electronics cooling in things wind powered electric generators and portable communications stations. You can get an electric AC compressor that will cool a car, but you have to convert to a 48V alternator and battery system, then build/buy a voltage regulator to output 12V to the car, and the 48V alternators are actually BDC electric motors, so then you also have to have a controller to be able to actually get any usable voltage/current out of it. It would have just been a nightmare. Having a pulley made and building an adapter plate is all relatively easy stuff. I basically have the adapter plate done already. I just need to weld the two pieces into the correct place once I have the pulley done, which I couldn't do until I had this measurement that you just gave me, so thank you!

[centralcoaster33]

Thank you for the explanation/ response. You've satisfied my curiosity (as insatiable as it tends to be). I'm glad I could help with a measurement. Props to your love and dedication to your ride!