ka24de crank counterbalance question

[PuNcHdRuNk]

i have some questions about counterbalance and the ka24de. i had heard that some of these motors have a completley counterbalanced crankshaft and some do not. i was curios if anyone has any data on this? i did try to search btw and didnt come up with anything so please dont flame me because of my uber dumbness. thanks

[neverlift]

as far as I know no ka came from the factory with a balanced crank, they were all half counter balanced or wtf ever you call it.

[fo0manchu]

counter weighted is the term you guys are looking for. Yes, half counter weighted.

[neverlift]

thanks its been so long since I gave a s*** I forgot so what if my power drops off at 5250 cause my crank is only half counter weighted when I make power up till that.

[eazye2000]

so what if my power drops off at 5250 cause my crank is only half counter weighted when I make power up till that.

And people thought I was crazy for sticking with my T2...

I like my 1,500 - 5,200 power band. lol

[neverlift]

not due to turbo limitation in my case... plus I am lazy and dont feel the need to rev to 7k for anything I am doing(even sliding), lol I dont even down shift on civics on the highway trying to me

the stock crank is trying to destroy itself at anything above that, look at stock dynos and turbo dynos, I swear its like they just balanced it to make power up to where the curve is my only complaint of the stock ka is the crank lol.

Best ever bolt on for a ka IMHO is a dampened crank pulley, from what I hear it lets you rev a little higher before this drop off.

[Blue Ka-t]

My power starts to die off at 7500rpms with JWT 272 cams and a 61mm turbo.

The power doesn't drop off at high rpms due to crank vibrations, its due to the stock cams, restrictive exhaust, super long runner/small plenum intake manifold, etc.

The stock crank is spun over 10,000rpms in importdps's drag car and manages to put down over 1000hp.

I'm not saying some power losses aren't due to the half counterweighted crank, but they can be overcome. I've had a 3000rpm to 5500rpm ka-t setup, and i'll honestly say the 4500rpm to 7500rpm setup is much more satisfying.

[neverlift]

never said it cant be taken care of, just that its a major contributing factor, IMO

is that crank stock though, has it been balanced/machined in any way?

I dont loose that much up top, I just dont rev that high that much, I can easily get my drift on below 6k. Hell I didnt have too much drop off on the t25 setup I ran before, it felt fine to redline at 11psi.

[PuNcHdRuNk]

thanks for the info everyone, so does anyone know of any reputable machine shops that can counterweight a crank, or is this even a possibility? oppionions on wether or not it is nessesecry? im going to be shooting for the 400-500h.p. range on my setup and i want it to be bullet proof....

[Blue Ka-t]

You can't get a machine shop to make the crank fully counterweighted lol, that requires manufacturing a new crank.

Everyone uses the stock ka crank because it is strong, never once have I heard of someone breaking the stock crank due to torque.

If you are building the engine, i'd recommend you take your rotating assembly in to be balanced. You will need to find a shop that has the tools necessary to do this.

You need to bring them the harmonic balancer, crankshaft, rods, pistons, flywheel and pressure plate to do it right.

The crank on a ka should be the least of your worries, its bullet proof. I know of numerous people that take the stock crank to 7300-7500rpms and have been making 450-550whp for years.

Engine management, fuel delivery, and tune is what you need to worry about.

[jeremymr06]

wouldn't getting the whole rotating assembly balanced have better harmonics then when the engine left the factory?

stock cams are good for down low torque but a nice set of cams and you wake the ka up.

[PuNcHdRuNk]

thanks for the info everyone, does anyone know where to get a good deal on an ati crank dampener? ive been looking an the range from $400-600 which seems kind of spendy for a pulley..................

[neverlift]

its worth it unless you can get the entire rotating assembly balanced , however I could find better ways to spend my money, as stated, the crank is rock solid, just not balanced that good.
Modified by neverlift at 1:06 PM 12/9/2009

[Blue Ka-t]

the crack is rock

QFT

[neverlift]

not sure how I managed that one, I was blind while typing it

[jeremymr06]

You need to bring them the harmonic balancer, crankshaft, rods, pistons, flywheel and pressure plate to do it right.

The crank on a ka should be the least of your worries, its bullet proof. I know of numerous people that take the stock crank to 7300-7500rpms and have been making 450-550whp for years.

not to thread jack but blue ka-t what is your build. do you have a build sheet somewere???

interested what your setup is...

[Blue Ka-t]

I don't really have a build thread anywhere, I just hang around the forums and answer questions. (mostly the .org, i'm kfred) My setup is always changing, i've been ka-t for 4 years now with alot of changes. I'm a college student with limited funds so my build is evolving slowly lol.

At the moment:Jwt cams, Arias 8.8:1 pistons, Eagle rods, t3/gt40 "blowzilla turbo" (t350 stage 5 wheel .63a/r), CalumRT (tuned by me), jwt fuel system with 75lb/hr injectors. Blown transmission too! I'm getting fairly good at swapping them these days.

OP, i'll check and see if I can find a better deal on the ATI damper for you, but I wouldn't get my hopes up.