KA Turbo Oil Drain questions

[ExoniX]

Well i have an extra oil pan here.. Could anyone recommend some setups for the Oil Drain fitting on the Oil Pan, thx

[fredb]

I went to the hardware store (try autozone or o'reily's) and bought a small "tube" that was threaded on one end, it's about 1.5 - 2 inches long. We drilled a hole in the pan that was slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the tube I had. Then, we sort of screwed the tube into the hole and slathered on plenty of two part epoxy around the tube. It's worked great for several months now. Just make sure it fits tight in the hole you drill and make sure it's of sufficient inside diameter, about an inch or so should be fine.By the way, we didn't take off the pan to do any of this but I would recommend it. After we got the hole drilled I looked in it and we were about a half inch or so from drilling into my main girdle, that would have been very bad.

fredb

[TurboKA37]

another reason u should not drill the bung hole while the pan is on the car: when u drill throught the pan the metal shavings the drill produces will now be inside ur oil pan and circulating through ur engine. and that could cause some problems

[canadians14]

has anyone tried to remove these shavings without taking the entire oil pan on ... i was thinking either take a magnet (after draining most of the oil) and trying to fish some of the shavings out ... or adding small amounts of oil and allowing them to kind of wash the shavings out? anyone tried something like this ?

[C-Kwik]

http://www.xs-engineering.com/...n.pdf

This is a link to the install instructions of the XS kit. There is a section that tells you a good place to locate the hole.

As far as drilling with the pan on, While I don't necessarily recommend it, You can minimize shavings y dipping the drill bit into some wheel bearing or other thick type of grease. Since drill bits are designed to excavate, most of the shavings are supposed to be pulled through the blade. If it's covered in grease, the shavings should get trapped in the grease. I've never tried this though, so I do not know how effective it actually is.

[daniel240]

i didnt take mine off either. after drilling, i shot carb. cleaner through the hole i drilled and washed all the shavings towards the drain hole. then i ran a couple courts of cheap oil through until i didnt see any shavings. then i changed my oil after running the engine for about an hour.

[Redline240]

Anyone have any pics of how they did it?

Redline

[klattr1]

one thing to remember!DONT USE STANDARD HEATER HOSE FOR OIL DRAIN!it will deteriorate, crack and rip. It does not handle the oil properties and heat correctly. Either use silicon hose or run a steel braided setup.You can screw up alot of stuff if your oil drain hose cracks and u dont realize you are dripping alot of oil. Your motor could be toast along with your turbo after oil runs out.

[canadians14]

kind of scary that they call the car a 240xs on the title ...

[C-Kwik]

Yeah, that was intended. They say that anytime they descride that particular kit.

[felix44]

defintly take the oil pan off, takes only about 10 min, and that 10 min is well worth a peice of mind knowing theres not all kinds of crap in your oil pan, and also knowing its not going to leak, i used a female 1/2" NPT end to weld in the pan and for the drain i ordered all steel braided hose and the proper fittings, cost about $70 but now i know its not gonna leak or melt from manifold heat or anything of that nature, i suggest just do it right the first time, itll save you money in the end

the way i got my oil pan off (and back on) in like 10 min is to take off the driver side motor mount nut (not on the block) jack up the engine a bit and drop the front sway bar and there ya go its off easy as a few bolts, then when you drop the engine back you have to take the 4 bolts of the engine mount on the block off then but the bracket on the single hole first then put the 4 bolts back in, really pretty easy and this way you only have to mess with one engine mount

[C-Kwik]

I'd like to see that. Removing the engine mount nut, dropping down the sway bar and lifting the motor up out of the mounts would probably take a person 10 minutes alone. Not to mention you still have to remove all the bolts, and break the seal, remove the oil pick-up and then remove the pan. Getting it back on usually takes even longer. Considering you have to remove all the gasket material, apply new silicone gasket sealer, put the oil pan up, install the oil pick-up, bolt up the pan, and then reinstall the sway bar and motor mount. Even done at a very fast pace, 10 minutes would be record time.

[daniel240]

one thing to remember!DONT USE STANDARD HEATER HOSE FOR OIL DRAIN!it will deteriorate, crack and rip. It does not handle the oil properties and heat correctly. Either use silicon hose or run a steel braided setup.You can screw up alot of stuff if your oil drain hose cracks and u dont realize you are dripping alot of oil. Your motor could be toast along with your turbo after oil runs out.

im using heater hose, and i know of quit a few others doing the same. ive checked mine often and it looks fine.

[silviamaniac]

The hose sold in http://www.jgstools.com is fine. Not too bad for the price and comes with a flange for the turbo drain side.

18" is more than enuff for what it needs to reach from top mount turbo to the pan. The drain hose goes down from turbo and THRU the engine mount bracket (a gap in between) and fall rights in the center point of the pan.

I took off my pan, and drilled at the center of right side of the pan. I did not weld due to incapable of welding brass and aluminium in local shops, thus, i drill a hole, insert the brass adaptor and cold weld it with permatex cold weld.

I found permatex cold weld is stronger and harden alot faster than jb weld. JB weld is weak in comparison.

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/t3t4oil.html

[felix44]

I said 10 minutes to get the pan OFF the car not to redo the silicon gasket weld the fitting in and get it back on, 10 min to get it off probably like 30 min to do all the work and then another 10-15 to get it back on so like an hour total, and you dont have to take the oil pick up off, i didnt and mine came out and went it fine with no problems, and if you drop the pan drill it and clean it your looking at probably 30-40 min so for the few extra minitues ide say just take it off

[detforme]

i welded and stainless bung onto to the side of the oil pan but as high as possible. The hose was high heat hight pressure rubber. All hose are made with a 3:1 safety ratio. so if they're rated to 300 degrees max, it's really 900 degrees max (just examples). because the pressure is not very high you can use simple barb fittings with hose clamps. But you can also use stainless line if you want to spend the extra money.

[spitz7985]

defintly take the oil pan off, takes only about 10 min, and that 10 min is well worth a peice of mind knowing theres not all kinds of crap in your oil pan

i found it much easier to get at my passenger side mount, but i did pretty much the same thing. it's pretty easy and i need to do it again once it warms up because i used some ****ty liquid gasket. i highly recommend nissan silicone gasket. that stuff is amazing. the plates of metal that connect the block to the bellhousing on the bottom were a ***** to get off on my s13, and i needed to to drop get at the pan bolts.