KA transmission Clutch Problems

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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s13drft89
Posts: 498
Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 2:41 pm
Car: 1991 Twin Turbo 300zx & 1968 Mercury Cougar

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Hello, Well heres the story, my headgasket had blown on my motor, i had changed the gasket out blah blah blah, well problems started happening with the motor. Well while i doing my headgasket changed I had taken out the motor, i replaced my clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate, as well as the pilot bushing(while the enigne and transmission was out). Well I put everything back in and started the car, the clutch felt great no noises, nothing. Well a week later I found oil leaking between the head and block, well luckly my next door neighbor was selling his 92 240, so i switched out the motor and i kept my old transmission and used my new clutch, i did everything the same why as i did with my old motor(putting the clutch in). Well I put in back my motor, hooked up everything, bleed the slave, oh yea forgot to mention i had the master, and the slave replaced around 4 miles ago. Well after bleeding the slave, the peddle felt great, I turned on the car, well i had my foot all the way down on the clutch, and then i started to hear some sort of grinding noises, like my throw out bearing, now i know for a fact that when i had connected my old transmission into my new motor, the bearing was in its perfect place, hasnt been touched, also with a good amount of grease. Now i had talked with a fellow nico member to see if maybe we can figure out this problem, he had given some suggestions to try and bleed the dampener, then bleed the slave again. When out yesterday and bleed both about 3-4 times each. Now for some reason my pedal feels spungy, and you have to push all the way down in order to put it in gear. Usually the hard spot is on the top, but mine is all the way on the bottom. Also with the noises, say if i were to push down on the clutch pedal 4 times it would only make noises twice out of the four. I checked my transmission fluided, was perfectly fine. Please any help would be appreciated, thanks-Ricky


TrueSlide
Posts: 2126
Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2002 7:07 pm
Car: Stuff

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Hey guys if you can, help this guy out! I tried but Iam just lost now.

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S13 240SX
Posts: 1065
Joined: Thu Dec 08, 2005 2:44 pm
Car: 93 Mazda Miata

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bleed your system all over again with new clutch lines, also the noise can just be your clutch pedal grinding and rattleing when you push it me, mine does the same thing, you have to re-adjust your pedal.

hope that works for you.

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s13drft89
Posts: 498
Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 2:41 pm
Car: 1991 Twin Turbo 300zx & 1968 Mercury Cougar

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Thanks for the reply, how do I adjsut the pedal, now if it is a rod, like the brake pedal, do i want to move it towards the driver or away from the driver? thanks-Ricky

DjPantsSpecR
Posts: 1711
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:49 pm
Car: 93 Nissan MS13
92 Nissan RMS13

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like i just posted, read the other clutch issue thread, do not adjust the pedal, its only a quick fix that will not solve anything

bypass the damper box and unbolt the resevoir and raise it up to get rid of the air. it gets trapped in the hard line. read the many other threads ive posted about this....

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s13drft89
Posts: 498
Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 2:41 pm
Car: 1991 Twin Turbo 300zx & 1968 Mercury Cougar

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I looked at your created topics, didnt find anything except this one zerothread?id=142897 doesnt help, if anything that sounds like your master, or your slave,that same problem happened with me. Thats the reason why my master and slave was changed out not to long ago.

DjPantsSpecR
Posts: 1711
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:49 pm
Car: 93 Nissan MS13
92 Nissan RMS13

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nope sorry, that was a whole transmission ago.

if you replace a slave it really easy to lose almost, if not all the brake fluid in the system, depending on how careful you are. and then after that you get air in that upper hardline and its almost impossible to bleed out with the slave bleeder.

it really helps to just bypass the damper box, because all that does is increase the pedal travel to engage the slave cylinder, it doesnt actually dampen anything, it just makes fully diengaging the clutch slower, probably to help spin the synchros together

bypass it, unbolt the resevoir, and raise the entire resevoir so it is higher than the entire line, youll hear an air whoosh almost immediately.

its worth a shot, and about my other post i was talking at the top of the KA page, but i still say give this a shot

mr2lickit
Posts: 80
Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:25 pm
Car: looking

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I dont know to much, but maybe you should replace ur clutch line. I know I'm switching mine to a steel braided line. Yes you can adjust ur pedal with the line behind it. Just reach under there, but that other guy is probably right about it being a temp. fix.

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s13drft89
Posts: 498
Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 2:41 pm
Car: 1991 Twin Turbo 300zx & 1968 Mercury Cougar

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Now when you bypass the dampener does the make the pedal feel diferent at all, from my searching i heard it makes the pedal softer, but less of a push down. Also i also notice that i had forgotten to put on my transmission bracket(both of them), i had put them on yesterday, doesnt feel any different with them on or off, put for some reason when i put it into geard say any gear, its pretty rough, the clutch pedal hasnt been bleeded to a good point, due to i need another person. thanks for the replies.-Ricky

DjPantsSpecR
Posts: 1711
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:49 pm
Car: 93 Nissan MS13
92 Nissan RMS13

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it does not feel different in bypassing the damper, as its not actually a damper, it just causes less pedal travel to disengage the clutch. you'd need a big beefy pressure plate to change pedal feel.

plus, more than likely, most people who bypass this damper dont bleed the air properly and thats why it softens the pedal up, IMO

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s13drft89
Posts: 498
Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 2:41 pm
Car: 1991 Twin Turbo 300zx & 1968 Mercury Cougar

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Well i got it all worked out, everything is perfect and solid, hardest part was taking out the transmission seemed like the clip for the throw out bearing wasnt on correcty, and for the leaking part, it was my oil pan, fixed them both and its GOOOOD thanks guys for the help-Ricky


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