ka-t won't stay running.

[Nizmo-Nuts]

So I finally got my ka-t running. It will start just fine and idle right around 900rpms, but after a few seconds the idle drop and it will die unless I give it gas. It revs up just fine, but it just won't stay started on its own.

I've been searching alot but I haven't been able to find anything.

I checked my timing and it's good. Its not running rich either. Could a vac or boost leak cause it to die like that. Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks.

[trackslut240]

yes check for vac leaks, also feed the idle control solenoid some seafoam.it might be gumming up, if you have time search here and look up a way to take it apart and clean it good. it helped my idle tremendously. you can also find ways to seafoam your intake on here.quick rundown:start car or have someone start car. stand by the throttle plate so you can blip it a few times. with the car running remove the brake booster vac source from the center of firewall, put you finger on it or it will kill the motor(vac leak). start revving it and then submerge the pipe in a can of seafoam. try a little to keep it running to suck out all the seafoam, it will smoke heavily(you should have had your gas mask on) and die. let it sit for half an hour then start it up. should clean out majority of buildup in intake.sorry out of time, gotta go. good luck

[biggie]

My first thought is if the IACV is hooked up/clean.

[Nizmo-Nuts]

The IACV is hooked up. I just don't see how it could be clogged though because everything worked fine before I went turbo. I'll just clean it anyways, it won't hurt to try.

Also, I'm not sure if I have the line on my waste gate hooked up right. I have one hose running from the side port on the w/g to the compressor housing, and I have the top port on the w/g plugged. But I was reading earlier that it should be left open.

[biggie]

My other one is left open.

Not sure how that'd affect idle though.

[Nizmo-Nuts]

My other one is left open.

Not sure how that'd affect idle though.

Sorry, I wasn't saying that was messing my idle up. It was just a random question

I'm going to clean my IACV tomorrow and I'll let you guys know what happens. Thanks for the help.

[Nizmo-Nuts]

Alright, so I couldn't find seafoam anywhere so I just used some throttle body cleaner. I sprayed some of that in the metal tube coming from the IACV. And after a couple minutes of it running, it idled just fine on its own.

But now for the bad news. I think my MAFS is bad now because it wouldn't rev past 2500rpms. Which is really weird because it revved up just fine a few days ago.

[trackslut240]

try maf cleaner but highly likely you will need a maf...

[Nizmo-Nuts]

So I got a new MAFS from my brother, installed it, and it revved up just fine. But it was still idiling a little low. So I sprayed some more carb cleaner. The car started, but after a few seconds it shut off and I haven't been able to get it to start since. I think I sprayed too much but is there any way I can get it to start. Thanks.

[Lonismos14]

I have the same problem do you have a blow off valve. Because my car idled just fine, then i adjusted my blow off valve and my idle sounds like a diesel.

[Nizmo-Nuts]

I don't have a BOV right now. I'm pretty sure I just sprayed too much carb cleaner. I tried letting it sit for a couple of days but it still won't start.

[WDRacing]

I doubt it's the carb cleaner causing it not to start. It's hard to use to much of that stuff. I'd recommend brake cleaner over carb cleaner though. Autozone carries seafoam, usually 2 different sized cans. You only need the smaller one.

Has the dizzy been pulled? My idle issue was being off a tooth when I reinstalled it.

What are you using to tune the fuel/timing?

Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over a few times. Don't let the starter engage for more then 4-5 seconds at a time and do it 3 times. This will remove any fluids in the combustion chamber.

Put the fuse back in and try to start the car. If it starts good if not disconnect the MAF and try to start. Let us know what happens.

BTW are you absolutely sure you have no vacuum leaks? They will cause a lean condition and the motor doesn't like to idle when it's lean.

WD

[Techsalvager]

Don't use carb cleaner on the MAF, its possibile you destoryed the maf with that stuff. There is decidated MAF cleaner for cleaning out the MAF and its hot wire element.

Check everywhere for leaks, and tighten up all lose clamps on intake piping and check the vacuum lines.

[trackslut240]

you might need to check your plugs, they might have been fouled up with fuel... clean and check or replace them and see. i was scratching my head so hard that i developed a bald spot...coz i had fouled the plugs with cranking it a lot. tried cleaning them with a brass wire brush but no help. they would spark out of the motor good albeit a little weak, but inside the motor they wont work. replaced them and it started right up. its actually very easy to destroy plugs by fouling them up with fuel, i learned'd the hard way.time to apply some rogaine to that bald spot...

[Nizmo-Nuts]

I doubt it's the carb cleaner causing it not to start. It's hard to use to much of that stuff. I'd recommend brake cleaner over carb cleaner though. Autozone carries seafoam, usually 2 different sized cans. You only need the smaller one.

Has the dizzy been pulled? My idle issue was being off a tooth when I reinstalled it.

What are you using to tune the fuel/timing?

Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over a few times. Don't let the starter engage for more then 4-5 seconds at a time and do it 3 times. This will remove any fluids in the combustion chamber.

Put the fuse back in and try to start the car. If it starts good if not disconnect the MAF and try to start. Let us know what happens.

BTW are you absolutely sure you have no vacuum leaks? They will cause a lean condition and the motor doesn't like to idle when it's lean.

WD

I did what you said and I got it to start. It idled fine after a few seconds of it running. I drove it easy around the block a few times. But one thing I noticed is that it's not building boost if I rev it slowly. Only if I gun will it start to build boost.

And also my waste gate won't open either. When I did get into boost, it boosted all the way to 10+psi, and I have a 8psi spring. IDK why it's not opening, I have the line running from the side port on my waste gate to the compressor housing on my turbo.

Also, I'm using a 6:1 FMU and retarded the timing 2 deg.

[Lonismos14]

Check everywhere for leaks, and tighten up all lose clamps on intake piping and check the vacuum lines.

Where is your wastegate line routed to.

[Nizmo-Nuts]

To the compressor housing.

I had a friend of mine told me that my w/g should have a flood(I think thats what it's called) Well my w/g never came with one(I bought it used ) Could that cause it to not open.

Also, what does the flood look like and where does it go.

[Techsalvager]

is this turbo and wastegate new or old?

[WDRacing]

To the compressor housing.

I had a friend of mine told me that my w/g should have a flood(I think thats what it's called) Well my w/g never came with one(I bought it used ) Could that cause it to not open.

Also, what does the flood look like and where does it go.

I've never heard of a flood. If you're using an external gate you attach a vacuum line to the port on the side. The other end has to be connected to either the intake manifold, usually T'd into the FPR line, or to the compressor housing. I personally don't use the compressor as a vac source. I always use the intake manifold as the same source for the boost gauge, FPR and wastegate control. The reason I use the manifold is so everything is seeing the same pressure from the same source. There is also a 1-2 psi difference between the compressor and the manifold because of the FMIC and associated piping.

Can you give a quick breakdown of your setup?

Do you have a wide band by chance?

Is your wastegate dump pipe vented to the atmosphere or plumbed back into the exhaust?

When you installed the wastegate did you remember to put the fire ring around the wastegate valve? Looks like a thick washer and it's beveled on the side that faces the valve itself.

So as it sits right now it idles fine and accelerates fine? The new problem being that you can't boost at part throttle only WOT?

WD

[biggie]

As a reference, I was/am using the WG reference at the compressor housing. With the original 7psi spring I was seeing 5psi at the intake mani (where my gauge is).

But now with EBC, I just set it to see what pressure I wanted at the intake mani.

[Nizmo-Nuts]

Thats what I was talking about, a fire ring. I just didn't know what it was called And no, I don't have one. My w/g never came with one. So I guess that's why my w/g isn't opening.

I already T'd into the FPR line for my FMU. Could you explain how I could use the manifold as a vac source for everything.

I have a top mount, blow-through T3 setup. Externally gated with dump tube venting to the atmosphere. A 6:1 FMU. Stock inj, maf, ect.

Right now it idles and drives perfectly fine,( except for the fact I can't build boost). It boosted all the way to 10psi at WOT. That was by accident the first time, I thought my w/g would open at 8psi. It just won't build boost if I rev it in neutral or slowly build up my rpms.

Right now I don't have a wide band, but I'm trying to get one soon.

[WDRacing]

You can buy a fire ring online for your wastegate. Just google "whatever brand" fire ring and click shopping

[Techsalvager]

It just won't build boost if I rev it in neutral or slowly build up my rpms.

Right now I don't have a wide band, but I'm trying to get one soon.

Get a wideband before you start doing more stuff

Also boost won't build up in N because there is no load\hardly any load on the engine to build iup boost. Also slowly reving up in gear won't build boost as fast either.

[Nizmo-Nuts]

You can buy a fire ring online for your wastegate. Just google "whatever brand" fire ring and click shopping

Thanks I'm going to order one now.

Get a wideband before you start doing more stuff

Also boost won't build up in N because there is no load\hardly any load on the engine to build iup boost. Also slowly reving up in gear won't build boost as fast either.

That it def the next thing on my list to get.

I wasn't saying if I rev it up slowly it builds boost slowly. If I'm driving, and slowly rev up to 4000 rpms, it will build no boost at all.

[Nizmo-Nuts]

Is this the right thing http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...57216

Or is this what I need That metal ring right next to it.
Modified by Nizmo-Nuts at 8:56 AM 4/12/2010

[Nizmo-Nuts]

I took my wastegate off earlier just for sheetz and giggles to see if there was a fire ring, and there was, but it was backwards. The beveled edge was facing the manifold.

So I re-installed everything correctly, and it still won't open.

It will build boost now though. I think because the fire ring was backwards, it was causing a small exhaust leak.

Ok, so one problem solved. Now I just need to figure out why my w/g won't open

[WDRacing]

This may be a PITA but take the wastegate back off and work the plunger valve with your fingers in and out a few times. Then reinstall with the fire ring, also called the valve seat, going the correct way bevel facing the valve so the valve sits in the bevel. This is what seals the valve to the base. No ring = open wastegate

You did say you bought the gate used, maybe you should take the cap off and check the color of the spring. The springs color will tell you what psi its rated for.

Then go out and make a few WOT runs. The wastegate should open fine if you have the vacuum line hooked to the side and not the top.

Here's a chart for the 38mm.

WD

[Nizmo-Nuts]

Dude, thank you SO much I took the hat off and I had two springs in there a blue and a green. Which according to that chart is 21psi No wonder it wouldn't open I'm just going to leave the small green one in there. Once I put everything back together and test it, I'll let you guys know what happened.

Thanks again to everyone who helped

[WDRacing]

That's awesome man, glad I could help.

WD