SAFC isn't exactly a "cheap solution" I don't think it's electronics man...I think that the diaphragm in the FPR is ripped and it's dumping fuel when boost is present...

however it didnt have this miss @ idle before...

nothings changed other than bolting on a turbo. so lets look at what that could cause to wig out. acclerated air stream thru maf at idle would cause it to idle rich via ecu thinks youre on the throttle. maf reaching max resolution when boosting and you run out of steam. see my thinking?

Yeah man I see where you're coming from. But there's been numerous people on here that have turbo'd their KA's with a small T2 series turbo on stock electronics and an FMU with no problems...

And you yourself said that when a car is turbo'd at idle the ecu thinks im on the gas a little bit. I forgot to mention that before boosting my car did have a slight miss if held at a constant rpm, but VERY VERY SLIGHT. It made NO difference on the driving experience what so ever. So now that the turbo is on the car maybe the *possibly screwed up FPR* is dumping more fuel.

For instance, this guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0THhIwYMYOs

His car isn't tuned at all, NO fmu, and stock internals, and it blew up a month later, but hey, it still went into boost.

So I'm pretty much fresh out of idea's on what it could be.

Plan for tomorrow:

- Pressurize system AGAIN and check for leaks, fix every single one.
- Replace FPR with my spare
- Take teflon tape off my feed line (heard it's bad)
- Test injectors for proper resistance...should be @ 11 ohms
- Test MAF for proper voltage
- Test coolant temp sensor for proper resistance

That's all I can think of. I'll update this tomorrow when it still doesn't work.

the ecu knows your not on the gas, thats what the tps is for..

its probably your blow off valve blowing off unmetered air, letting it run rich. When at idle the bov should be slightly open, and that is unmetered air... and from the pic(cant tell) your lower boost refference port is not capped off(another leak for the maf to fight)...

replace that fpr asap, that will blow your motor from detonation due to lack of fuel..

dont know how many times I can make this statement. blow through is worth the little extra efforts, the engine will then be metering only the air just before entering the engine. suck or blow the maf doesnt know your boosting, it just knows how much work it takes to keep the hotwire at x temp.. Unhook the bov vac line, see what it does. drive but dont boost(some are scared of flutter)

im just saying it sounds like something elctronic is wigging out and youre getting to much fuel at idle and not enough on top. yeah it could be the fpr is screwed but i wouldnt see it dumping to much at one point and not enough at another point. sounds like some kind of metering problem to me

[quote="neverlift"]the ecu knows your not on the gas, thats what the tps is for..

if the maf is getting some kind of weird reading if will still cause idle/fueling issues. maf is reading volume and tps is reading load. no load but metering volume can still cause some of these very issues

its probably your blow off valve blowing off unmetered air, letting it run rich. When at idle the bov should be slightly open, and that is unmetered air...

only a recirc bov should be open at idle. my turboxs rfl was never open during idle. It only opened when coming off the throttle.

First thing is replace the FPR. If something is known to be broke, change it and then continue with troubleshooting.

hey, u running the stock maf? it kinda looks that in the pic above. i been turboing a couple ka-ts down here and came across ur problem once....this guy had
92 ka
t3/t4 forgot what trim
wideband
stock fpr
370cc safc 2
stock maf (poo) (5in 5out)
stock ecu automatic

i drove his car it would only hit boost and start pullin at mid throttle, but as soon as u went wot, it AFR would jump to ten and the car would bog out. told his a** to get z32 maf retune afc to 2in 5 out. drove that sh** after, car was boosting but running uber lean. changing that maf and FIRST start with what WD jus said hope that helps

I've tried everything. ****ing EVERYTHING.

Today I cleaned my maf, checked all grounds, replaced the FPR (the new one still leaks.....maybe there's a relief?), tested CTS for proper resistance, tested injectors for proper resistance, etc.

It wants to go in boost when the car is cold(still doesnt go at WOT but seems to be better)...and seems to run better when it is cold. The second it warms up it dies when I stop, and doesn't go into boost at WOT.

Found another leak today, at the throttle body...not even at the gasket, at the spring assembly thing. I'm sure that's not my damn problem anyway. Even if it was my problem under boost, WHY would my idle all of the sudden by screwed up? It never missed @ idle before.

Shoulda went SR.

Shoulda went SR.(not so good idea, at least I think so)

built ka-ts when TUNED properly make incredible power. i think u have a monster in ur lap waiting to be unleashed.(not with ur current setup though )

when u replace an fpr it SHOULD not leak (if done correctly). Nothing else can be diagnosed unless you FIX that fpr. stop tampering with everything else till that fpr is solid

also where exactly is it leaking from? Can u visually see the leak? U using a gasket? all hose clamps tight? worn fuel hoses? very curious where the leak is now

car also probably dieing when u stop cause u got that vac leak and ur BOV is prolly atmospheric. Adjusting your safc decel setiings will also help when your car is in good running condition at stationary idle (done a couple works wonders)

Haha.
Stryfe you talk like SR's don't have problems like these either.

Is the FPR brand brand new or a used one?
Very weird how it's leaking again.
I'd get that throttle body leakage checked out too.

Did you get a boost gauge yet?

chillmieste wrote:

Shoulda went SR.(not so good idea, at least I think so)

built ka-ts when TUNED properly make incredible power. i think u have a monster in ur lap waiting to be unleashed.(not with ur current setup though )

when u replace an fpr it SHOULD not leak (if done correctly). Nothing else can be diagnosed unless you FIX that fpr. stop tampering with everything else till that fpr is solid

also where exactly is it leaking from? Can u visually see the leak? U using a gasket? all hose clamps tight? worn fuel hoses? very curious where the leak is now

car also probably dieing when u stop cause u got that vac leak and ur BOV is prolly atmospheric. Adjusting your safc decel setiings will also help when your car is in good running condition at stationary idle (done a couple works wonders)

I'm aware that built tuned KA-T's make incredible power. The setup I have right now will be 100% perfect for me once it finally WORKS.

The FPR is leaking from here(see picture)...I can only see the leak when I spray soapy water at it when I boost leak test @ 20 PSI. Fuel hoses NEW, clamps NEW

(This is an SR but you get the idea...)


I'm sure it's dying when coming to a stop cause the vac leak among other things. I don't have an SAFC.

Razi wrote:Haha.
Stryfe you talk like SR's don't have problems like these either.

Is the FPR brand brand new or a used one?
Very weird how it's leaking again.
I'd get that throttle body leakage checked out too.

Did you get a boost gauge yet?

I know SR's have problems, I was being a smartass. I shoulda went LS1. Better?

It's used off my other motor.

No boost gauge yet.

I recommend a boost gauge that reads vacuum, even a cheapo gauge from harbor freight is better then no gauge, Then we'll know if and when it's making boost.

The "hat" of the fpr shouldn't be leaking obviously. I don't have another spare or I'd send one down/over/up to you.

Ok lets start from the beginning here. The turbo is going to make boost if there is exhaust energy leaving the motor. What we have is the beginning of boost, then a bogging condition as boost comes on right? We also have an idle that is getting progressively worse.

Is your timing at 20*? If not make it 20* please.

JB Weld that FPR so it doesn't leak and you absolutely need a fuel pressure gauge at this point. Do you have a stock in-tank pump or a 255, I can't remember? If it's stock I've seen the pumps go bad and cause similar problems. Fuel pressure can and will cause all of your problems, from idle to boost cut.

Lets clear up the fuel pressure issue since it's the only thing we know for sure.

What are your plugs gapped to? I'd start at .030 if they aren't already.

We'll get this f*** running. Don't get to frustrated, it's going to be something simple in the end I bet. Probably going to piss you off to...lol.

WD

My timing is not at 20...I've heard stock timing under boost is suicide?

No need to JB weld, I have an SR20 FPR and I'm sure it'll work, as KA/SR fpr's are both 1:1 units.

Plugs have been gapped to .028, .030, .025, and .035. They're at .035 right now.

Lol, probably.

EDIT: Oh, and stock fuel pump.

Definately try replacing the FPR first.

You on a stock wg psi? so 7psi? I'm wondering if you are maxing out anything: maf, fuel pump, etc.

Yep, stock WG psi. I don't see how it'd be any higher than 7 psi. It doesnt have an adjustable actuator/boost controller.

How much is it retarded? Just a touch right?

Stock S13 fuel pump blows.

It's at 17 bdtc.

Yeah I know. It obviously has enough fuel though, the plugs are black lol.

I got some spark plugs at work today, NGK BKR6E copper core...gapped em to .030

So I changed the FPR, put in the new plugs, and screwed with the dizzy for a while and...

Good news....it goes into boost.

Bad news:

-Seems a little hesitant still. (spark gap maybe???)
-The old plugs were lean-ish on the tip, but PITCH BLACK everywhere else
-The turbo sounds as if it's on it's way out, which it never did before.

Anyone know how to fix the hesitation that is still present?

EDIT: I believe the turbo sound is due to a loose gasket where the downpipe connects to the turbo elbow, working as the *blowing on a wrapper* effect...hope you know what I'm talking about.

Update...

Tried BKR7E plugs..gapped them lower hopefully to prevent the hesitation I'm having. No luck.

Tried timing @ 13,15,17, and 20.

No luck.

It doesn't go into boost smoothly...I have to go 1/2 throttle up to 4Kish, then floor it, and it'll go.

Still misses when driving slowly, misses slightly at idle as well.

Slowly losing patience, I'm out of ideas. All turbo stuff is being pulled off tomorrow, and the car is being returned to stock. I have a job and college to worry about, I can't be hitching rides for the rest of my life, lol.

I didn't read all 3 pages, but did you ever try replacing the plug wires? I had a stumbling/hesitation issue when I first boosted my ka and it turned out one or a few of the plug wires were bad, which caused them to arc against the valve cover, it felt a lot like spark blowout because that's basically what it was.

Yes I tried that

the pitch black with lean tips means youre incredibly rich under anything but o2 sensor control(low rpms and low throttle postion)... sounds like you have way too much fuel or spark is getting blown out.

the real work is done, giving up now would be a shame, 90% of the time it is something stupid.

I know u said uve tried evrything, but how did u use a different maf setup without telling the stock computer its different? im kinda still thinking its a maf issue as long as u fixed that fpr problem

I never said I used a different maf setup, I said I used a friends MAF.

And I don't wanna take it all off, but what needs to be done needs to be done, I need to have my car working again. I'll screw with it for a while today, and if no success, then it just...has to come off.

what is the number on that maf? last 3 should be a combo of a letter and 2 numbers like n60 ect. i see that you have a plastic body maf and im pretty sure that ka use an alluminum body maf? it also looks a little to close to the turbo too.

From the pictures on page 2 it looks like he has an aluminum body mafs. Im pretty sure all the ka24de's should be using the plastic mafs. As far as i know the aluminum were for the ka24E's. So he actually might be using the wrong mafs???

Nope.
All KA's use aluminum bodied MAFs.