ka-t stuttering

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scs13
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Car: 93 s13 coupe

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im really stumped by this problem. the car stutters really bad and doesnt pull for ****. you can barely get on the gas without it cutting out. sometimes it will throw a code 12, 13 and today a 21, then go back to showing 55. it has been doing it since we turboed it, thought it was the stock mafs, so we got an n62 mafs and it still does it. put a new n62 mafs in, redline ecu, new plugs, cts. still cant get it running right. vaccum is around 23, so i wouldnt think there is a leak. spark plugs are gapped to .30. timing is set at 16 degrees. compression is aroud 178 on all 4 cyl. i would really appreciate any help you can offer, thanks.

specsstock s13 ka removed emissions etct3/t4 running 10psiredline ecudeatschwerks 550sn62 mafs


gaehrings13
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This won't fix your problem, but if you have a stock ecu programmed for boost then you shouldn't have the timing anywhere except for the stock setting. Is it throwing any smoke out the muffler, does it smell like fuel really bad? Was the distributor ever taken out?

*Edited for grammar WD*

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WDRacing
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You can't just switch MAFS. Each ECU is programmed to run with a certain MAF. Swap back in the stock unit. Whats the fuel pressure? Never heard of a redline ECU. I hate seeing..."removed" as a mod. Your problem could be right there..

WD

Florida240sx
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Redline ecu is the ebay guy.... never heard any reviews

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Brandon93240
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Pull your puter out and make sure everything is pushed in and looks legit. With the codes your throwing your loosing reference to all the important signals for your car to run properly. If you have a stock ecu put it in with the factory maf and see how it runs, but don't drive it around and boost it. I say your puter my have a faulty ground or something isn't correct in it. When you loose reference to the mafs, ignition, cas, and cts the puter is a very good place to look. What is the puter setup for?

gaehrings13
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Lol thanks WD! I just woke up, I guess I wasn't thinking straight.

Make sure the ecu you have is for your car, its possible it could be a S14 computer. The pinouts are different on the 95+ 240's.

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scs13
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the ecu was tuned for the n62 maf, the redline ecu is his ecu that he sent in.

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Brandon93240
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Thats good to know, I'd still pull the cover off and make sure everything is soldered and plugged in correctly. I think florida had a somewhat similar problem and it was his chip loose from the UPS guys playing warehouse football with his box, so I'd crack it open and check it out. Also did you have the engine or wiring harness out of the car? Check for kinks or breaks in the harness.

gaehrings13
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So, is it throwing any black smoke. It could be running too rich. Does it sound like its running on all of its cylinders. Check spark, and fuel since you know you have good compression. It could be a bad o ring on one of the injectors. If one of the injector o rings are bad the car will stutter and throw black smoke, thats why im asking if it is throwing any kind of smoke from the muffler.

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coolbone28
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Well since its throwing all those codes I would suggest either something with the wiring (maybe for your mafs). But since it is throwing completely unrelated codes I would check out the connection on your ecu harness as stated above. Or the ECU itself.

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scs13
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Car: 93 s13 coupe

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the car does smoke but i figured its mostly because of the turbo leaking a bit. i hope it isnt an injector, but last time we put in the injectors the got ****ed up. we lubed up and installed them in the rail and somehow it ****ed up the caps and orings. had to send them back to deatschwerks and get them to fix em. put them in a different fuel rail this time to make sure it wasnt the rail that was messed up. i guess we will pull the injectors back out again and check them.

the car for the most part seems to run fine when sitting, it will rev and not cut out. but if you pop the throttle real fast sometimes it will.

the harness has never been taken out of the car but i will check and see if i can find any possible problems there. i guess i will also take the cover off of the ecu and check that out.

ill have to get a new wideband sensor before i can see what the afr's are.

thanks for your help guys.

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coolbone28
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Dont pull the injectors out. Just pull off the fuel rail with the injectors in and turn your ignition to the ON position. The fuel pump will prime the lines and if they leak, then you have a ripped oring or bad injector.

I was just talking about where the harness connects to the ecu.

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scs13
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alright. i also forgot to mention that the safc is showing like 114-116 for knock, and i have no idea what is normal.

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coolbone28
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whoa. You have an SAFC too? You have alot of stuff that can play a role in your problems. You need to eliminate them all. I would set timing to stock, take of SAFC and try to get it running with JUST your tuned ecu.

You are leaving out alot of info. LIke first you had a stock mafs...was that with the tuned ecu or were you runnin the safc? or both.

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scs13
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i mentioned the stock maf just because this problem has been occuring since we turboed it. thought it was the stock maf, so we got an n62. had the safc in there first with the stock maf and then the n62 maf. the redline ecu just got put in last week. i disconnected just the maf wires from the safc plugged them back together and it still did the same thing. i shouldnt need to disconnect the power from the safc right? we are probobly going to take it out all together, just wanted to make sure thats right. any idea what knock is normal?

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WDRacing
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First thing's first. Just so I'm clear, the Redline ECU is tuned for the N62 MAF? If yes, then remove the SAFC entirely and resplice the wires to the ecu.

Do you have a wideband air fule monitor you can use, if not, buy one or barrow one. It's THE only way to tell whats going on with the AFR's aside from dyno time. If the AFR's are screwed, you can A: install the SAFC and tune the fuel side or B: get a stock ECU and use the SAFC to tune it.

Also, check the wiring for the N62 MAF, if the pig tail isn't wired right you'll have alot of issues.

First thing is to remove the SAFC though, assuming you have the ECU tuned for a N62 MAF.

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scs13
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the problem was fixed as of right now. gapped down the spark plugs and set the timing back to 20 degrees. she runs like a champ now and pulls hard as hell. thanks for all your help guys

lrb_2000
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haha. nice... completely different problem then everyone thought.

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Brandon93240
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Yeah thats awful weird that is was throwing all those codes, I'd still check everything out on the ecu just to be sure, you don't want to get down the road and something come loose and be strainded.

Florida240sx
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2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
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You can leave the safc in as long as you re connect the mafs wire. Everyhting else is just tapping the signal. Only thign that is altered is th emafs signal. If you used the correct connectors you can just unplug and plug back.

gaehrings13
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lol man o' man where was the timing at it must have been really off for it to run like that.

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scs13
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we were thinking of leaving the safc in just to do some fine tuning. but i guess im gonna be buying a new wideband sensor to see where the afr's are at.

Nismochop95
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check out that distributor. maybe oil on the disk

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Chezedik
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scs13 wrote:the problem was fixed as of right now. gapped down the spark plugs and set the timing back to 20 degrees. she runs like a champ now and pulls hard as hell. thanks for all your help guys
Why were you pulling 4 degrees anyway? You were on an aftermarket ECU. Glad you have it fixed, though. Enjoy.

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scs13
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we had retarded it 4 degrees before we got the new ecu. but the problem was still happening when we had it at 16 degrees, before the new ecu.


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