KA-T's track reliability discussion

[scarboroughdub]

Hey guys i dont post much as im currently collecting parts for my setup but... i was thinking. The KA-T has prooven itself at eh quarter mile with guys in the 11,10, and 8's which shows us these motors can certainly make power but as stated these are bursts of power over a several second period.

now i want to track my car on lapping days here locally so this means hours of punishment not seconds, so my question is what do you guys think would help a KA-T last such a beating.

now i know the sr20det motor is built for this with its square block and high reving characteristics but i wouldnt be in this forum if i was looking to drop in a sr.

now i know the first thing is heat control eg:

coolant temps and oil temps which can be controlled with bigger and more efficient rads and oil coolers and higher capacity oil pans and pumps and proper baffling.

asside from that is there anything else you guys would see that could produce a reliable 350whp track driven KA-T setup other then forged pistons and rods.

your input is appreciated.

[GEO]

Koyo dual radiatordual electric fanoil coolertranny cooler

[veilside180sx]

Look up a guy by the name of Adam Hu, he's been tracking his car in SCCA for the last 2-3 years. With a SOHC-T, so I don't see any reason a DOHC-T can't do it as well.

[turtl631]

Orion also track a KA-T, about 300 whp and no problems yet. You might look into drift setups too...thsoe are probably abusive actually. Talk to guys who actually drift for extended periods with KA-Ts, I'm sure they will have found any weaknesses. Going sideways for a large portion of the time certainly doesn't help with cooling.

[Checkered-Member]

Koyo dual radiatordual electric fanoil coolertranny cooler

power steering cooler

no A/C in front of the radiator

a bunch of gauges to keep things in check

[Nismo_Freak]

Koyo dual radiatordual electric fanoil coolertranny cooler

Koyo is not a good radiator for road racing I'm afraid.

I would go with a C&R dual pass for track usage. I'm gonna have to make due with my Koyo by basically mediating air flow. You can do this by boxing in (ducting) air and forcing it through the radiator.

As far as coolant is concerned you should run primarily water. PG and EG are two substances that can cause alot of wrecks should you spring a leak. Alot of tracks look down upon coolant in the cars, which is why most racing series' don't allow it.

Electric fans are worthless on a track car for the most part. You DEFINEATLY want to stay away from fans that have shrouds that hug the radiator, such as the FAL 210's. At speed the shroud will stagnate air behind the radiator core and reduce airflow. At SPL we tend to use FAL 150's which flow more, are lighter, and have a deeper shroud.

Make sure your hoses are as short as possible and aren't getting soft when hot. This can restrict the flow, and can be an issue thats hard to diagnose.

Thermostats are worthless unless you are overcooling.

Oil cooler is a given. The KA and SR hold meager amounts of oil, and ask it to put up with alot. I would run a thermostat off the block, and route it to a small - medium sized oil cooler. Remember you might hit road debris or go off course so be sure to protect the oil cooler at all costs. I think behind the intercooler would be a decent place, and route air via a duct to it. While not ideal for airflow and cooling it would be beneficial in the event of a wreck because the engine would stall once the intercooler was crushed.

Trans and diff coolers are nice, but with the cost of a replacement it's honestly just better to run without them. You can get a differential cover that's finned off ebay for cheap.

At least you are in Toronto, it's not like you will be fighting with nature as well.

[swwifty]

This is a good question. I've been doing some research myself lately for my future KA-T, because I'm going to be doing track days with it. I don't know who makes a bigger oil pan for the KA, but that would be a worthwhile investment. I'd also say cermanic coat the header and downpipe, as well as the turbo. Get a good radiator and fan, and you should be set.

[veilside180sx]

This is a good question. I've been doing some research myself lately for my future KA-T, because I'm going to be doing track days with it. I don't know who makes a bigger oil pan for the KA, but that would be a worthwhile investment. I'd also say cermanic coat the header and downpipe, as well as the turbo. Get a good radiator and fan, and you should be set.

One is not currently available, but you can always have someone fab you one up. Price varies with whomever makes it though.

[turbo98_240sx]

I remember that the oil pan Idea cam up in another form and was waiting for (WD) if I member correctly to make a 1 or 2 qt larger oil pan. I was also thinking of trying to see if I could make a better oil pan but with work so hectic and just a lack of time/desire to put up the effort (and down time of my car cuz I'm to cheap to get a spare) so I kinda said I would just buy one or way later on make one if no one did. That and I don't own a welder (yet but the good ones seem like so much $$) so it would take a while to work around someones time frame with mine so hectic, and who knows If what I put out would really be all that much better but was thinking about making it so the oil pan would help with cooling too. I know it was a lil off topic but not so far to start a new thread.

[turtl631]

If this is a street/track car you could pop out your front turn signals at the track and pop in some naca ducts for brakes, oil cooler, etc.

Nismofreak, have you had a specific problem with the Koyo on the track?

[:: orion ::]

I'v run my KA-T at Road Atlanta and Sebring with no issues...

Stock radiator, Altima fans, 80/20 water/coolant + Water Wetter...temps never broke ~215F on a ~80F day.

I have recently ordered a Koyo...my ~120,000 mile stock plastic rad end caps are going to crack some day, I'm sure...seen it happen too many times.

All metal OEM replacement is $180, Koyo is $300...neither will crack.

I have no worries with the Koyo...sure, the C&R, or Ron Davis units are nicer...but much more $$$. Even the Fluidyne, at $480, is too much IMO.

...

Cover the bases with your cooling system, run good, NEW oil, and don;t feellike you have to rev to +7000 on every shift...it'll hold up fine.

- Brian

[fabio420]

What about using water injection. Logically speaking, It ould tottaly help with this issue.