Ka-T question? new engine break in?any good engine ka tuners in tx?

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
mikesloud
Posts: 105
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 6:29 am
Car: turbos and SPL world champ

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I have been slowly tweaking the issues of getting car running good,breaking in new engine.I have Ross pistons 8:5 ,total seal rings, valves ,jim wolf cams,valve springs, pauter rods,toga hi volume oil pump, arp studs, garrett -big kuhuna-To4 turbo, 72lb injectors, cobra mafs jim wolf ecu tuned, etc. I have a wide band in it, ave been driving for 900miles around town trying to break in motor and i have changed oil and filter about 200 miles to keep clean. Iwas told to use reg motor oil 10-w30 and when is a good time to switch to synthetic? the machine shop says 2000 to 5000 miles to seat rings in cleanly.

Also I keep hearing almost a sometimes knocking sound at idle or low rpms 700-1600 rpms ,not all the time, though .I took it to two different mechanics , and then the machine shops guys. They would listen to it and they are pretty sure it is just noisy valve train,higher ram off from jimwolf cams and the stiffer springs. I am just maybe being paranoid but I am trying to take care of my investment. Do any of you have similiar set up and kinda has a knock sound to motor.Are they normally kinda of noisy? It drives great but I am bothered by the noise ,is it OK? should I check valve lash? All A/F numbers are great and seem normal.And I have magnetic drain plug and at 900 miles, should there still be some small metal on it because of new motor? I have seen some small particles on it, is it normal? when would be a good time to start synthetic?Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated?I have no tuner friendly help in area.Any good tuners with ka-t experience in texas? thanks please reply I need some 240 ka-t advice.

:(


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WDRacing
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A new valvetrain can be noisy, especially on startup. A slight knock is normal from what I've seen on motors, not KA but motors in general. A minimum of 2000 for rings getting seated poperly is correct, don't switch to synthetic till then.

As far as the mag plug goes, was the oil pan throughly cleaned, was the oil system flushed? There is usually some sediment on a mag plug everytime I've removed one for an oil change. Unless your seeing larger chunks of metal, like a oiece of a broken bearing, I wouldn't worry. Especially since your breaking in so many new parts.

Keep us posted on any problems and the results of the motor.

Brian

mikesloud
Posts: 105
Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 6:29 am
Car: turbos and SPL world champ

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thanks brian

So you think i should worry about the almost knocking ka noise ? it is probly just noisy valve train,hi ramp of cams onto stiffer springs that make the knocking sound? is mobil clean reg. oil ok to use 10w 30,that is what I have been using. Or do you reccomend 20w50 ?Also when can I get on it descent? I have been using about 8 lbs of boost the past 120 miles but not on all the way just stepping into throttle every once in while, but being easy.

thanks any one for responses ,the more I get help or support from you guys that are doing same as me, it helps me, I do not trust any one here they all think my time and money in this ka-t is stupid and are not much help,even the nissan dealership techs!So little issues they do not help much!

the knocking sometimes NOISE is Normal then??

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C-Kwik
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Check valve lash. The DOHC KA should not have valve noise. And SOHC KA's with hydraulic lifters should only have it for about 20 minutes after starting it the first time after the lifters have been drained. If you put new cams, you should be checking the valve lash when you install them to ensure they are within factory specs. As long as the lash is set correctly and the cams designed correctly, then you should have no noise. The cams ramp angle should have nothing to do with the noise unless the valves are floating and the lifter hits the cam lobe on it's way back up. But it would be more likely to occur at higher RPMs. Valves make noise when they seat too quickly against the valve seat in the head. But be weary. Rod knock can sound quite similar to valve noise. You should get a mechanics stethescope. Put it against the lower part and the upper part of the motor in various places. The point at which the noise is loudest will be where the source is.


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