KA-T project advice, IAP...

[bigbadbrad]

Hey, I want to add a turbo to my 1992 DOHC 240 and I need some help/advice from you guys. I want to go with the IAP turbo kit, I planned to go with the stage 1 plus kit since I hear that the stage one really lacks in fuel mods needed. I'm looking for about 280hp. Nothing over 300 since the internals are suppose to become unreliable after that mark, I've seen people go over but I'm not going to mess with it and 280 is more then enough. I'm looking to run in the 13's, mid 13's if possible. Will this kit get me there? Anyway, here are some mods I plan to add with the kit. Can you guys tell me what else I'll need and wont need. Like should I just upgrade pistons while I'm at it? I need some advice. Thanks http://www.import-autoperforma....html

-JWT ECU (guess not need for an safc) -300ZX (Z32) MAF -IAP 550cc Injectors (but with JWT fuel rail probably MSD50lbs inject) -Greddy Profec B boost controller (or should it be S and not B) -T3/T4 IAP turbo -Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump -Oil Feed/Return Lines-Stainless steel braided line -IAP Front Mount Intercooler 28"x8"3" -2" Intercooler piping/silicone couplers/hose clamps -Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve pre-welded on. -Trial 38mm waste gate -IAP Custom Equal Length Turbo Manifold -IAP Downpipe -Boost gauge -Apexi N1 3" exhaust -Nismo FPR -ASP crank pulley -Koyo radiator (?) -JWT clutch kit -PLX m300 wideband -JWT Fuel rail -Oil cooler and catch can
Modified by bigbadbrad at 4:32 PM 7/15/2006

[Florida240sx]

Get stage one.555cc injectors from deastchwerksZ32 MAFSFuel pressure regulatorEnthalpy ECU tuneand clutch of your choiceBe perfect.

[bigbadbrad]

So is this better? People have said I should just basically run the same setup as Geo which is basically an safc and SR 370cc injectors. What do you guys think? Will this setup get me around the same goal. Main goal is to be in the 13's.

- T3/T4 IAP turbo- Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump - Oil Feed/Return Lines-Stainless steel braided line- Front Mount Intercooler- Intercooler piping is shipped with Greddy Type RS Blow Off Valve - Tial 38mm Wastegate. - IAP Custom Equal Length Turbo Manifold- IAP Downpipe - 555cc injectors (deastchwerks)- Z32 MAFS- nismo fuel pressure regulator- Enthalpy ECU tune- Greddy Profec B boost controller (or should it be S and not B)- Boost gauge - Apexi N1 3" exhaust - ASP crank pulley - Koyo radiator (?) - JWT clutch kit - PLX m300 wideband (?)- Oil cooler and catch can- JWT Fuel rail (what you think, should I use these?...can I even or will they just be a waste with my setup?)

BTW: with this setup how bad am I pushing my engines limits? I don't want something to just randomly blow.

[TOPSECRT88]

how much boost could you run w/ the stage 1 kit w/ forged internals?

[bigbadbrad]

I hear you should not go over 12psi on stock internals, so with forged, it should almost be up to you, I'd be running 9-10psi with my setup but another question of mine is should I just replace pistons while I'm at it to run safer and change my compression. I was thinking to just get a top hat stage 1 crate engine to be safer and more reliable. What you think. and then bolt this setup up to it.http://www.tophatperformance.com/At first I wanted to get an IAP stage 2 but with the crate enigne and stage 1 kit it will be about the same so I like the idea.
Modified by bigbadbrad at 6:08 PM 7/15/2006

[bigbadbrad]

Did some more research and came up with slight changes. This will be the stage 1 kit with some extra mods. (the list below is the stage 1 kit and additional mods) I want to take the parts listed below and put those on to a Top Hat stage 1 crate engine. Here's the list, once again what do you think? Am I missing any mods or don't need any. What do you say. Goal is to at least run 13's. http://www.tophatperformance.com/

- T3/T4 IAP turbo - Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump - Oil Feed/Return Lines-Stainless steel braided line - Front Mount Intercooler - Intercooler piping is shipped with Greddy Type RS Blow Off Valve - Tial 38mm Wastegate. - IAP Custom Equal Length Turbo Manifold - IAP Downpipe - 555cc injectors (deastchwerks) - Z32 MAFS - Nismo fuel pressure regulator - Enthalpy ECU tune (or AEM EMS, which would be smarter)- Greddy Profec B boost controller (or should it be S and not B) - Boost gauge - Apexi N1 3" exhaust - ASP crank pulley - Koyo radiator - JWT clutch kit - JWT S1 cam set- PLX m300 wideband - Oil cooler and catch can - JWT Fuel rail (what you think, should I use these?...can I even or will they just be a waste with my setup?

TH Motor description-This engine is stable to 350hp with proper turbo system and engine management. It is sold in long block form but additional items can be added at additional cost. Top Hat’s crate engines are the most complete KA performance engines you can buy. Other companies add extra charges for standard parts on our engines.

Parts-Super Tech 8.4:1 compression 89.5mm coated pistonsSuper Tech performance piston ringsCometic MLS head gasketARP head studsARP Main studsARP Rod boltsNEW Timing kit (Tensioners, guides, chains and gears)NEW Oil pump assemblyNEW Water pumpClevite main and rod bearingsNew freeze plug kitMr Gasket copper exhaust gasketIntake gasket

Precision Labor-Block is bored, honed to 89.5mm, decked and hot tanked.Head is cleaned, receives a 3 angle valve job and is surfaced.All galley and freeze plugs are replaced.Cam journals are check and then polished.Factory camshafts are checked and polished.Crank journals are checked and then polished.Crank shaft is checked, polished or turned if needed.The rotating assembly is then perfectly balanced including Rods, Pistons and Crank.Factory Nissan rods are checked, reconditioned and shot peened.Block is painted Engine cast coat grey.

[GEO]

I think Stage 1 kit, with some 370cc's, walbro HIGH pressure fuel pump, safc-2, good tune, and some sticky rubber puts you mid 13's at 7psi.

[bigbadbrad]

aren't you running the same setup? I was thinking about it but I'm starting to look for more power. If this falls threw I'm going with your set up because I really like it, but I'm going to stick with this list for now. Anyone else? what do you think?

[bigbadbrad]

I've heard I'll be better off running the AMS fuel kit, What do you think, since I'll be buying the TH motor I now want to fun about 310hp or around there, Will the AMS kit be a better choice and will the 50lb injects be enough? The kit includes- http://www.amsperformance.com/...d=789

- Turbo240 fuel rail with -6 o-ring fittings - 5 feet of 300psi EFI fuel line - Fuel Lab 1:1 boost sensitive fuel pressure regulator - Injector pigtails for your new top feed injectors - 3-90 degree -6 AN ends and 1-45 degree -6 AN hose end - All fittings, bolts, washers, o-rings, and clamps to complete the installation- 6 SS Braided Line- High Flow Fuel Filter - Injector Size: 50lb High Z- Liquid Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge- Mitsubishi Injector Resistor Pack

BTW: for the crate motor will it be smart to add AMS rods, because don't the stock ones give out at the same time as the stock pistons, I also hear that 8.8:1 pistons will be a smarter choice with a stock bore along with Calico Coated Main and Rod Bearings. OK I'm don't this is the final set up.What you think?


Modified by bigbadbrad at 9:49 AM 7/16/2006

[tvmendoza]

If you buy the 555cc injectors (deastchwerks) you wont need the JWT fuel rail, i am not sure if you really need the koyo radiator and the or the asp pulley.I would not buy it until i need it, like when my radiator blows. Looking good, you are getting quality.Tona

[bigbadbrad]

well the radiator and pulley are just extras, the 50lb injectors come with the rail, its a kit but you think its better to buy the 555cc injectors and no rail?

[AZhitman]

Do yourself a favor and deal with AMS.

I don't have time to elaborate, but there's no question in my mind that they are your best bet, across the board.

[Florida240sx]

370's are too small for your goal. You need at least 440's, but you'll soon swap them out for 555's....

[bigbadbrad]

Do yourself a favor and deal with AMS.

I don't have time to elaborate, but there's no question in my mind that they are your best bet, across the board.

What do you mean, as in call them or you saying go with there fuel system, right?

[bigbadbrad]

370's are too small for your goal. You need at least 440's, but you'll soon swap them out for 555's....

I'm not, I'm going to go with the AMS fuel kit with the 50lb injectors.

[Florida240sx]

Why you getting a kit? Our stock fuel rail is fine. Just get some injectors from deastchwerks and you are good to go.

[bigbadbrad]

I've just heard its a better choice, I need a FPR and all and this kit covers me with everything I need fuel wise so It seemed good to me. Anyone else, What do you think about the list plus motor combo as in with the pistons, rods and motor setup?

[GEO]

Remember, if you change out the fuel rail, it will always be proned to leak, as you never know if you "tightened" all the way and such. I doubt it though. Oh I didn't see hoe horsepower goal, I thought he just wanted a mid 13 sec car, yeah, go with the 550cc's then.

[bigbadbrad]

so what do u guys think? AMS kit or make my own with the 555cc and all with out the rail, I'll be swapping out my FPR either way with either the AMS model or Nismo. So like said before, whats ur thoughts on the engine combo with those pistons, rods etc. Thanks

Ya, I'm looking for like 315hp, around there. That will get me to my goal of 13's too and hopefully a little beyond.

[bigbadbrad]

I never really looked at the JGS kit but I like it, I re-viced my list with there parts below, What do you think now? What will be a better setup, with the JGS kit or IAP? Still going on the TH stage 1 motor.http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

- Turbonetics .50 trim T3/T04E turbo (.48)- Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump - Oil Feed/Return Lines-Stainless steel braided line - IAP Front Mount Intercooler - IAP Intercooler piping shipped with Greddy Type RS Blow Off Valve - Tial 38mm Wastegate- T3 mounting studs- JGS KA24DE turbo manifold- Turbo cement- KA24(D)E downpipe and wg pipe set/ 3" SR DP- Exhaust wrap and clamps for downpipe- Z32 MAFS - EGR plug- Enthalpy ECU tune- 0.050" Oil Pressure Restrictor - Power Steering Resivore Relocation Kit- Greddy Profec B boost controller (or should it be S and not B) - Boost gauge - Apexi N1 3" exhaust - ASP crank pulley - Koyo radiator - JWT clutch kit - JWT S1 cam set- JWT adjustable cam timing sprockets - PLX m300 wideband - Oil cooler and catch can - AMS fuel kit- Parts included listed above.
Modified by bigbadbrad at 12:01 PM 7/26/2006

[Jookmasta]

man u've been changing that list like you were in a dressing room. nonetheless, first and foremost, both the IAP manifold and the JGS manifold are solid items. both turbos that are offered with those kits are solid items as is the wastegates. intercooler wise, u will need to relocate the battery with the JGS, but u wont with the IAP intercooler kit.

now regardless of which u choose, u will need an SAFC to fine tune ur a/f's. ur fuel setup will really fall on u to decide on whether or not u have the money for that AMS kit or if you dont mind saving a few bucks and using the stock rail. you can run 550's in the stock rail and not have an issue...............as for the fpr, the SARD fpr is what i run on my stock fuel rail and is a good component that hasnt given me any issues. either way tho, those fuel setups will be fine.

i hear the greddy type s boost controller is the better one as its much much much easier to use. i recommend the enthalpy tune also.

also get the .63 a/r exhaust housing on ur turbo, u'll thank me later right before you shift lol.

[bigbadbrad]

lol, .63 it is. I'm done changing stuff around. I would also be using the IAP intercooler either way. Well if I need an AFC and the enthalpy, do you think it would be better to get an AEM EMS instead. I know a person who can probably save me a little on one. The cost of the enthalpy and AFC + the tune will be close to the price of the AEM at the end. So you think the JGS kit is the way to go?

[Florida240sx]

enthalpy+SAFC=1/2 aems ems500+260=760 not 1500That combo is half of aem ems and you would still need the aem to be tuned on dyno which is another 200 probably....

[bigbadbrad]

I see......Ya, I did this all with though so I miss judged that.Thanks so your help, anyone else with other thoughts?

[AZhitman]

Remember, if you change out the fuel rail, it will always be proned to leak, as you never know if you "tightened" all the way and such.

Not even.

The AMS rail is engineered to precision accuracy. The stock rail is a hack-job.

[AZhitman]

Also, the Ground Zero turbo manifold is LIGHTYEARS ahead of any of the other ones you mentioned.

[bigbadbrad]

thanks, well I'm probably going to go with the jgs manifold cuz I'm going to go with there kit or at least buy what I need from them. Do they make s13 intercooler piping cuz I wanted to use IAP's intercooler kit but I'm not sure if it will fit right, I can always just make it fit . Anything else? missing something? only focus on the last list, I'll try to edit this post so it easier to follow. I changed the list like 3 times

[blckkat]

well i tried to follow along to see if I had any input but I'm competely lost. :lol: is there some sort of time limit to all this build or something? must be nice to throw around ideas and plans and NOT have money be an issue.......................I hate you. lol j/konly input I have is I'm not sure If I'd bother with IAP IC kit if your not going to go with the full stage 1 kit from there. its nothing real special especially for the price. in any case good luck.

[bigbadbrad]

lol, I hope I don't come off as some rich *** who's throwing around money. haha, no I'm just making a list now, I saved up for a long time for parts and I want to make a list, then buy the parts and build the car. So ya, I'm going with the jgs kit so the first to lists or what ever with the IAP stuff just ignore. So anyone else. parts I need?

[GEO]

Not even.

The AMS rail is engineered to precision accuracy. The stock rail is a hack-job.

When I said leaks, I ment pipping, ect.. Not the actual rail.