KA-T problems again and again I need everyones help

[98240]

I'll start this off by saying my car is pissing me off. It seems everytime I install the safc the f'ing thing screws up. I have been trying to get my car running for about 2 months(all safc related it seems). I keep running into the same problems. I installed the safc today again. The first time I think I ruined my maf so I got a new one(used oem). I intalled that and the car seem to idle with out a problem seemed to idle strong. Then when I went to drive it the car was stumbling or hesitating at 2000rpm. I bring the car back to the house and hook up my diagnostic tester. It pulls a code p0300(multiple/random cylinder misfire)or (ignition system or misfire). So I posted in on here and I was told to hook the safc up and that should fix the problem since I installed 370cc injectors and a walbro fuel pump. Safc was installed today turn the car on seems to idle really good at first then all the sudden the afr start going wild from lean to rich back and forth. I cant ge the car to get a good idle at all. Then when the car dies, when i try to start it back up I have to give it gas and to keep it running I have to pump the gas. So i figured I should check my plugs since i had that code. They all looked like the were in good working order. I dont know what this means but when I pulled the 4th plug I could se some smoke coming out of it with a flash light. I need help really bad would you guys recommend aemanage over safc or what? Could it be my timing by chance? Gap my plugs more or less? I checked my safc wiring over and over and over, I used the fsm. I dont have time to mess with this car since I am about to deploy to guam. So all help is appreciated. If anyone is in the oxnard ca area and has experience with this that wants to help that would be cool too.
Modified by 98240 at 8:00 PM 3/28/2006

[DammitBobby]

Could be several problems. What is your vacuum reading at idle?what is your fuel pressure read at idle?

[98240]

before i put safc on vac was at 20 that was when i had a good idle. With the safc on It reads about 15 because I have a ****ty idle. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge so I am not sure about that. Everytime i screw with safc it ****s everything up it seems. I feel like taking a sledge hammer outside and just destroying this car right now.


Modified by 98240 at 8:42 PM 3/28/2006

[DammitBobby]

It will be hard to troubleshoot without wideband and fuel pressure gauge. I know with my stock FPR and Walbro that my fuel pressure is higher then stock. Changing from SAFCII to Emanage is not going to fix your problems.

1st thing to check is a diagnostic setup on the SAFCII. Should tell you your voltage readings for TPS and MAF2nd what settings are you using on the SAFCII?

[blckkat]

seriously man I feel your pain I've wanted to take the sledge to my car as well many times. (just this morning in fact!)couple of things to check:fuel injector 0-rings-you said the plugs looked okay but did you try pulling the injector clips while the car is running to see if any one cylinder is worse then the other?vaccum lines - just one loose line will screw your idle to crap. and your boost gauge isn't an indicator of a leak. is it just a crappy idle I know you said it hesitated at 2k rpm but were you limited in your rpm. everyone loves to point their finger at the SAFC but its not always the culprit.

[WDRacing]

Well, you need a wideband to adjust the fuel. The narrow band will ALWAYS bounce when the car is warmed up because the ECU is now using the O2 sensor to control the AFR, since your car isn't tuned yet, the stock O2 and ECU are confused.

I have to say this for the record. Make sure the settings on the SAFC itself are correct, like the arrows and maf type etc. Then while the car is idling, lean out the mixture with the safc at that rpm level until it starts to stutter. You can take away to much fuel and cause your motor to die by the way, I did it myself. Once you get it to start stuttering, add a few points on the safc until it runs smoothly. Then do that same thing again once the car is warmed up.

Then for the other settings, take away 25% accross the board. Stay out of boost and drive your car to a dyno and tune it with a wide band, or beg borrw or steal a wideband from a friend.

Have fun in Guam, watch out for the Team Anderson SP's. When I was there in 98 we streaked the golf course...they were non to happy.

WD

[98240]

HAHA thanks I have a wideband also. I just cant seem to get the car to get a good idle at all. When I first start the car it is good until I hit hte gas then when I do that it makes the car shut off that is whrere the problems start. When pulling injector clips what am I suppose to look for? What is the car suppose to do when Injector clips are of? and howlond do I keep the clips off?

These are my settings:Sensor type hot wire 5in 5 out 1in 1 outcar select 4 cyl arrow up and to the rightSensor check In-1 1.785v at idle In-2 .035v at idle Throttle .440v

For lo throttle settings800 -7%1000 -8%1200 -10%2200 -26%2600 -25% -25 for the rest

Thanks

[blckkat]

when you pull the injector clips only unplut any given one at a time. when you pull it it should instantly change how the car runs. if you pull one and there is no difference or the difference isn't the same across the board you have o-ring or injector problemsyour settings on your lo-map seem way too rich. it will vary from car to car but that still seems pretty damn rich. blowing any kind of smoke? Is your idle steady or is it jumping up and down? don't mean to pester just trying to help troubleshoot. I'm still confused why your wideband would bounce up and down. sounds like your mag is working. hmmmm sounds like your settings on the SAFC are correct. You did cut the maf wire in half not tap into it right?

[S14tat]

thats yoru problem right there. your maf voltage is reading waaay too high. your suppose to be reading .9-1 volt at the In-1

also your suppose to running -25-28% for all points at the low throttle.

i don't know where you get the idea of only running -7% at idle for.

your running 370cc's. the stock injectors are 280cc. your running injectors that are roughly 27% larger then stock. the ECU has no idea that its dumping 27% more fuel. the SAFC is suppose to trick the ecu into thinkin its running the stock injectors. the stock narrow band o2 sensor will handles the rest of hte low throttle air fuel ratio corrections.

try to spread out your Ne points further down low and make then closer up top when your boost. its more important to have a finer resolution in your rpm range when your at boost rather then at cruising. plus your ECU disregards your stock 02 sensor reading at WOT anyways.

to try this

1000= -271500= -272000= -272500= -273000= -273500= -27

etc...this is just a base map on low throttle and also try 6 in 6 out

then check the the sensor check again. with the thing set to 6 in 6 out and at -27% at idle, the voltage should be close to .9-1 volt. that is what it is suppose to run from the factory.

the car might buck and stumble alittle initially cause your plugs are probrably all fouled up from running too rich.

at 1.7 volts the ecu is thinking your running 25% load becasue at full load with the MAF fully maxed out it would read 5 volts, and your almost at 2 volts just at idle.

[98240]

My in-1 is now at 1.5 at idle with the 6in 6out. I went higher on the in and out setting but hte car seemed to run crappier. I tried the settings you told me but there is no luck I even trimmed it down lower to -36 at 1000 rpm. The car dies once I give it gas. The exhaust is spitting black stuff out. I tried to unplugged each injector one at a time they all did the same thing. They made the engine stutter a bit right away. I am hearing a hissing noise coming somewhere around the throttle body is this normal? I looked around for the hiss but i could not find anything. My vac is still at 20. Now when I give it gas it dies but it starts back up with out me having to hit the gas hopefully it will stay like that. I also got the code p0300 again. I erased the code started it back up then let it run for about 10 min and the cel didnt turn back on. Is it possible my timing may be off? Can that cause my problems? Thanks
Modified by 98240 at 5:42 PM 3/29/2006

[S14tat]

hmmm 1.5 volts is still not normal. that hissing sound you hear, it could be a vacuum line that popped off the pcv valve. however since i've never changed mine, i cna't tell you exactly where it is.

[98240]

Whenever i unhook my maf the engine idles perfect. I dont understand. The bad thing is I cant get past 2500 rpm when it is disconnected. I cant get a good idle anymore. The car changes all the time it seems it cant make up her mind
Modified by 98240 at 10:08 PM 3/29/2006

[MS180SX]

what year is your car? have you tried cleaning or switching out the MAF?

[98240]

I have a 98 I did switch my maf I bbought a s14 maf and a 300zx maf. I blew my stock maf so i bought the two other mafs. I am curently using the stock maf that i bought as a fail safe. so if it blows I have the 300zx maf to fall upon. I have tried everything I am going to buy a fuel pressure gauge to see what happens and if needed a adjustable fpr.

[DammitBobby]

Mechanical gauge and the adapter shouldn`t cost you more then 30 bucksJust put it inline on the pressure side.

[98240]

Well I ended up doing the blow thru maf setup. It made the car work perfect. I guess the maf was the culprit since I had it right on the turbo. Now that the maf is on the cold pipe it works perfect. I have another problem but I will make another topic thanks.

[WDRacing]

Glad everything worked out, atleast for this issue...lol.